• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Boots for Elk Hunting?

All I use now is Scarpas. For twenty years I chose Vasque but when they moved the factory from Italy they weren't the same. I tried Danner but they didn't give the ankle support on the side hills. I carry a substantial pack in the mountains and I need good ankle support. I find the Scarpas work well and I have them in a heavy and a medium weight depending on the steepness of the terrain. Whatever you get, make sure you can resole them and make sure you have room in them for liner socks as well as quality hiking socks. As with any boot I always buy top quality inserts to fit my feet and throw away the ones that come with the boot, and it's better to have them a half size large than a half size small. Always carry and extra lace or two, you can use them for other things as well. If it is really cold, a half-size large boot can accommodate a those toe warmers that come in a flat pad. I wore boots my whole life, at work and play, so my feet are quite narrow and hard to fit. The Scarpas are one of the few that work for me. If you have wide feet they may not work for you.
 
I have used Lowa in the past they are good boots. A couple of years ago, I purchased a pair of Kenetrek Mountain Extreme w/400 gm insulation. Used on a late-season elk hunt with a good mix of horseback riding, sitting(glassing) and hiking. These boots were great in the cold, snowy conditions. I actually had a pair of Schnee's pac boots on that hunt, but never felt the necessity to use them. I did wear some OR gaiters with the Kenetrek's.
 
I left Danner's and have had a couple of pairs of Shnee's Beartooth and Beartooth II's. This model is uninsulated but they make insulated boots as well. (The Granite has 600 g insulation; close to what you mentioned. https://schnees.com/granite-600g/ ) Schnee's have been a good balance between weight and support. I've used them on multiple backpack hunts and carried heavy packs of meat and horns with no issues. All Goretex and similar linings eventually give out but these have also stayed waterproof well. (An Event membrane, I believe.) As mentioned, try boots on if at all possible. I wanted to try Kenetreks but the footbed did not fit my feet at all. YMMV
 
Lots of good boots listed. You will have to be the one that decides which is most comfortable to you. And unfortunately it can be expensive. A pair of boots can feel pretty good to start with but when you get out and really start using them not so much. What works for one may not for another. I have cold feet, but when hunting I do hike quite a bit. In my experience uninsulated boots that are water proof are usually good enough in my case they are kenetrek. If it's snowing I usually go to my 400 kenetrek. I usually carry an extra pair of merino wool socks. When my feet get to sweating and I stop to glass they do get cold. Good luck with your decision and enjoy your hunt.
 
Zamberlan 980's. Took me several tries to get a boot that would work for me, and as noted we are all different. I know that bad fitting boots have ruined more hunts than anything else. Our feet change over time and at these prices I need to make sure they work. When I was younger it seemed cheap boots worked, now not so much, at least for hard hunting like elk. I use a completely different set-up for Chukar. Lots of good points about insulation. I found good fit on the ankles was more important than insulation. Remember to leave room for sock sizing. Snug boots and oversized socks will not keep you warmer, opposite in fact in my experience.
 
I bought 3 pairs of uninsulated boots, for early fall elk hunting in Montana, to see what was the best fit for me... Kenetrek, Schnees and Meindl. I felt like they were a good sample set and price ranges.
As soon as I put on the Kenetrek's, it was a done deal. (I tried them last because they were the most expensive). The others were returned with full refunds (I checked their policies and stayed in their guidelines).
It ended up costing me twice as much because we did the same thing for my wife, who goes with me on the hunts. She agreed with me on the Kenetrek boots in a blind test (not knowing price or brand).
That was two years ago and my (our) next set of boots will be insulated Kenetrek Mountain Extremes.
All this to say, try several pairs and don't be afraid to extend your budget. Great boots aren't cheap, but they are worth it.
 
Lots of good boots listed. You will have to be the one that decides which is most comfortable to you. And unfortunately it can be expensive. A pair of boots can feel pretty good to start with but when you get out and really start using them not so much. What works for one may not for another. I have cold feet, but when hunting I do hike quite a bit. In my experience uninsulated boots that are water proof are usually good enough in my case they are kenetrek. If it's snowing I usually go to my 400 kenetrek. I usually carry an extra pair of merino wool socks. When my feet get to sweating and I stop to glass they do get cold. Good luck with your decision and enjoy your hunt.
My feet sweat also. Then get cold. Even at work. There was a thread on hear on that topic. I tried what was said about putting anti perspetant on bottom of feet. I tried spray and roll on. Roll on works best for me. Also started putting foot powder in my socks and not much in boot both helped a lot. I also wear liner socks. I notice the difference when I just wear wool socks. Like you merino wool best. I keep an extra pair in pack also.
As far as boots, I've never bought any above the "mid" level. I bought some $300 Miendel's in 2014. That was expensive for me . They took a long time to break in. Stiff. I used on a Nv. deer hunt. I tore up my toes. Glad I always bring 3 pair of boots when I go out of state. Buddies laugh at that. I laugh at them when theirs are soaking wet and cold.
I've had Danners. The ones made in USA are/were a lot better than China...
 
WYO300RUM,
Thank you for the tip on anti perspetant and foot powder. I will give it a try. I've done the whole gambit on boots. From the $50-100 to the mid level $300 and at least to me expensive ones in the $500 range. I had the Miendel boots also. They really were hard on my feet until I learned how to lace them up. It's been a while since I owned them so I don't remember exactly how it was, but if you were climbing you laced them tight and if going down hill you loosened them up and it was probably the other way around. But if you took the time to relace it really did help. I have a pair of kenetrek in the mountain extreme and another pair that I picked up on a good sale, don't remember the exact model on them. But my favorite pair are the cheaper ones, believe they are called the tactical. Have used them for about 5 years and fairly hard, never had wet feet or a blister. But this is me and someone else may experience different results. Thanks again
 
WYO300RUM,
Thank you for the tip on anti perspetant and foot powder. I will give it a try. I've done the whole gambit on boots. From the $50-100 to the mid level $300 and at least to me expensive ones in the $500 range. I had the Miendel boots also. They really were hard on my feet until I learned how to lace them up. It's been a while since I owned them so I don't remember exactly how it was, but if you were climbing you laced them tight and if going down hill you loosened them up and it was probably the other way around. But if you took the time to relace it really did help. I have a pair of kenetrek in the mountain extreme and another pair that I picked up on a good sale, don't remember the exact model on them. But my favorite pair are the cheaper ones, believe they are called the tactical. Have used them for about 5 years and fairly hard, never had wet feet or a blister. But this is me and someone else may experience different results. Thanks again
Thanks dmj.
I have a good friend that bought some kenetreck last season. Don't know model but he really liked them. I haven't relaced my Miendel's . Are you talking about a different pattern or different laces ?
Thanks !
 
If you're hunting southern NM, as I do, you don't need much insulation, unless you plan to sit. If you're walking, your feet will sweat with much insulation. I hunt in breathable Moab Merrills with no Gore-tex when the weather is warm, and I have a pair of Cabela's insulated tennis shoe boots for snow. Normally, even in December, I wear Merrill waterproof boots Remember, a pound on your feet is like 5 lbs. on your back. Go lite. You'll want lightweigt gaiters if you expect snow or really cold weather. If you have mid high boots like mine, the short gaiters will keep the grass seeds out of your socks and boots. I ruined a pair of Merrills once with hundreds of foxtails that stuck in the interior fabric. Even hunting CO in October, the waterproof Merrills and Cabelas insulated were plenty. Both are light. The problem with Gore-tex is that once wet, it takes days to dry. Nice to have a dry pair at camp. We hang our boots at the top of the tent to warm them before we try to put them on.
 
WYO300RUM, Like I said it's been 5 plus years ago and I don't remember exactly what I did. But do remember it was a different pattern and tightened them up and after thinking about it was tighter for down hill than uphill. One thing I have noticed about the kenetrek, at least to me, they are hard on laces. I don't usually carry an extra set with me but do have them in camp. Another consideration when looking at boots in my limited experience. When purchasing some of the less expensive ones they were usually pretty good keeping my feet dry for about one season. Kenetrek (and yes there are others as good or better, and yes they have boots that fail) for me have continued to perform for 5 plus years. So for me after the sticker shock from purchasing they have actually been cheaper in the long run. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Anyone owned both the Kenetrek Mountain Extreme (Non-insulated version) AND the Mountain Guide (Non-Insulated version) and could offer a review one vs the other? Sounds like the Mountain Guides may be a tad more durable.
 
Last edited:
WYO300RUM, Like I said it's been 5 plus years ago and I don't remember exactly what I did. But do remember it was a different pattern and tightened them up and after thinking about it was tighter for down hill than uphill. One thing I have noticed about the kenetrek, at least to me, they are hard on laces. I don't usually carry an extra set with me but do have them in camp. Another consideration when looking at boots in my limited experience. When purchasing some of the less expensive ones they were usually pretty good keeping my feet dry for about one season. Kenetrek (and yes there are others as good or better, and yes they have boots that fail) for me have continued to perform for 5 plus years. So for me after the sticker shock from purchasing they have actually been cheaper in the long run. Just my 2 cents worth.
I'm curious about the lace pattern . Yes, I need my boots tighter going down hill. Doesn't help my warn out knees though. I have a few pair of lower end boots that don't leak still after many seasons. I wear an old pair of Danners to work every day. The get wet from snow but still don't leak. I think they are around 10 years old. Made in USA. A long time ago when Rocky boots were made in USA I had a pair of their Guide boots. Goretex. I think 600 gr. Thinsilate. Bob soles. I loved them. Hunted 6 states with them for maybe 8 to 10 years. Not exclusively though. The stitching split on the sides. Haven't worn in a long time. I just can't throw them out. Have a Pair of leather USA made Browning's. 1000 gram. Goretex. Had bob soles but the dried out and separated . Had vibram put on. I hardly ware them anymore. Still in xlnt shape. I bought in 1983 I think... They never felt as good when had original soles. They cost me $200 back then ! I thought paying $300 for Miendel's was crazy. $200 back then was like $500 !
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top