Reloading- What pressure signs do you stop at?

[best defense]

Dear safety Steve, we ask politely that you sit this one out. Or, just limit your input to photographic evidence...

What pressure signs do you stop at?

This question is for the guys who want the most out of velocity. I have rifles that I don't push and just shoot for accuracy even if it is well below the max. I have a couple that I like to push to the max. So, where do you maverick's draw the line with pressure signs. Is it when primers begin to flatten, completely flatten, crater primers, hard bolt lift, ejector marks, swipe, etc.. I know there are false pressure signs, please include experience with that.

Rules for answering:
Rule number one: Safety First
Rule number two: Lets hear real world experience, not ethics or safety Steve ranting about not testing boundaries.
Rule number three: Let the dragon breath!

For starters, I don't go about my reloading to see how much pressure my rifles will handle. I have discovered that hot loads just make the lands in my barrels burn up, and normally do not provide more accuracy. If you have never taken a look into the beginning of the lands in your rifle, you can buy an electronic bore scope on Amazon for a little over $100.
That said, my warmer loads do make the primers start to flatten out. Having read some stuff about pressure signs, I understand that by the time you see something that looks like pressure signs you are most likely well over the safe limit for that rifle and load combinition, and continuing on will be at your own risk. Keeping in mind that there is no warranty for us hand loaders. It is all on us.
I have created some hot loads in the past but never did get any good results from any of them.
I used to have a 7 Ihmsa single shot handgun. I could not find any load information for that cartridge, so I tried some mid-range 308 loads. That was too hot and it was blowing primers. Eventually did find some loading information for that round, but the recoil was more than I was comfortable with because while shooting in the creedmore position, it would drive my elboe into the ground. Even with an elboe pad, it still hurt, and I traded that off to a guy who really wanted it. I never did find out how it worked for him.

 

[Turpentine21]

Bet this one will stump you guys. Not a rifle but interesting story. This kid shot a turkey then jumped up and ran toward the turkey. Tripped, jammed the muzzle in the dirt, then basically pole vaulted over the gun. Kinda dangerous when you think about it!

 

[Dean2]

If my barrel looks like this, I usually back off 1/2 a grain.
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I little further back you would have a ton of freebore. Should be able to up it a couple of grains at least.

 

[Turpentine21]

I little further back you would have a ton of freebore. Should be able to up it a couple of grains at least.

Amazing how they separate like that

 

[VinceMule]

If my barrel looks like this, I usually back off 1/2 a grain.
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That is a very different kind of muzzle break! Wonder if the ATF would consider that a short barrel'd rifle?

 

[memtb]

That is a very different kind of muzzle break! Wonder if the ATF would consider that a short barrel'd rifle?

Lots a bit like the "Blunder"…..before they added the "bus" ! memtb

 

[Roninco]

If my barrel looks like this, I usually back off 1/2 a grain.
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Cut the barrel back, recrown, and give it a go again. You'll lose a bit of velocity but will minimize barrel whip.

 

[crm3006]

If my barrel looks like this, I usually back off 1/2 a grain.
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I'm no expert, but maybe you should consider backing off a full grain, just to baby your next barrel for break in.

 

[Rosebud]

Gen Lee, if you can find any, try some IMR xbr 8208, I run 42g in Lapua brass with a cci 200 primer with the 175g Sierra TMK, super accurate.

Varget has one heck of a pressure spike at top end pressures.

I've seen those well. Going from ok pressure to wow! With only .2 to .3 grains of Varget. But its still my favorite powder.

 

[Rosebud]

If my barrel looks like this, I usually back off 1/2 a grain.
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Is there a report as to how that happened?

 

[WWG55]

If I encounter , heavy bolt lift, or ejector marks it is time to back off.

 

[Mr. Magoo]

If I can't get my thumbnail to catch the edge of the primer because it is smeared to the edges of the primer pocket...I take hard notice. Typically backing down from primer smear puts me in the safe zone. Stiff bolt on properly sized brass/properly bumped shoulder is a hard stop for me. Reduce 1.5gr.

Chrono lets me know sometimes too. Like a .5gr increase of powder that only gives similar or very close velocities to the lessor charged powder weights.

Using velocity increase per grain of powder can be misleading too- Hitting a really wide node will do that.

I use an 'all the above' method for reading pressure.Velocities in conjunction with primer flattening / marks on the base/bolt lift is what I go by. Seems heavy bolt lift is the hard limit not to go further for most folks, me included.

I look at pressure this way- I'm not going to be blowing up a bolt gun until WAY past mild pressure signs, so I dont have a heart attack when I do see signs. If I have a cartridge where brass is plentiful and easy to come by (and dont care about brass life)(aka 5.56) and want to run it hot (primer flattening some), and the gun likes it there, I will.

Others, where I want long brass life because the prep is time consuming or brass spendy, I'll go till I see signs and back off till they're gone if I find a node there.

I had a 22-250 that I couldn't get to shoot as well as I epected it to near pressure. So because I was using 4064sc I switched to pistol primers, backed it way off and started going back up. Found a node with velocities near the top that was putting them in the .2s consistently but the primer was flattening pretty good. Left it there, never had a lick of trouble with pierced primers or pockets loosening too quick. It was actually a soft shooting load. I figured the time/ pressure curve was more spread out. I guess cci pistol primers are softer.

 

[memtb]

Is there a report as to how that happened?

I'm guess'n either mud or ice in the barrel!

My policy for 30 + years, my hunting rifle "never" goes hunting without tape on the muzzle! I keep a roll of quality electrical tape in my day pack, to replace on the muzzle if needed. Electrical tape can also serve many emergency purposes as well! That's a little extra weight that I don't mind carrying! memtb

 

[Carey Farmer]

I can plug and muff to where I hear no noise whatsoever. But it's the concussion that somehow gets me. I'm in documented double digit concussion territory with wrecks, football, trauma, etc. I tried a brake again last week and have had a headache and blurred vision ever since. I hate it because there are some larger calibers I'd like to shoot regularly.

I shoot Precision Armament's EFAB brake for this reason. It has very little concussive blast. Not the best for recoil reduction but good enough for my rifles. Largest size is 30 cal though.

EFAB® Hybrid Muzzle Device

Experience superior muzzle control with Precision Armament EFAB® Hybrid Muzzle Brake. Ideal for SBRs, AR pistols, and bullpups.

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