I'd hate to see someone try and save $10 on and release and cost them $$$ on a new stock. I've had some of my work come out with a lot of work due to the release agents. Now if I use an aerosol release, I wipe it in and then give it another coat just for good measure. I don't typically have issues after doing that. That being said most of my work is with liquid resins not as much with paste consistency.
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Release Agent for Glass Bedding Cerakote???
- Thread starter ICMDEER
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M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
I did the same thing, stuck case with one shot. I removed my case by putting my die in the press upside down. Used a piece of round metal stock a little longer than the case. And pushed it out with the press. Then I read the directions on the can, dumb me. lol Did you clean the die prior to using One shot ? It states on the can other lubricants weaken it. I cleaned my die prior to using. But I did not spray the die with one shot just the cases. That may have been what created my stuck case. I have been scared to try it since. I kept the rest of the can because many on here said they use it for release agent. I may get the courage up to try it again. Just the way the directions say too. I'm real new to reloading so it was a learning experience. lol
M1A1ABRAMS
Well-Known Member
So that would be the Acraglass release agent from Brownells ?
So if you plan on Cerakoting after the bed job, you will solve the problems of paste wax or any other release agent you use assuming you follow Cerakote's instructions by soaking in Acetone, preheating to boil out any residual oils and soaking again in Acetone after the blasting process. This will remove any residual release agent as well as any blast media and you'll be ready to apply the Cerakote to a clean, oil free surface. As for the bedding part, I carefully and lightly chamfer the edges of my bedding compound after curing. I also put a thin layer of tape on the forward surface and sides of the reoil lug, I use the high temp mylar tape that I use for camo jobs. If you use bedding studs in your receiver, try to find a snug fitting Delrin or nylon sleeve to put on the stud and into the pillar, this will help assure that you have things square as it cures. If you have a lathe its easy to make a tapered sleeve which is even better and assures that your studs are centered in the pillar. As for me, I prefer to Cerakote before bedding, you can still soak it in acetone to remove residual release agent. One last thing, I have come to be in the habit of removing the barrel from the receiver, if you don't it will be next to impossible to not have some oil bleed coming out the scope mount holes and around the recoil lug. This also allows me to get a nice even coat on the lug abutments and threads which make a difference when you want take it apart for some reason.
scpaul
Well-Known Member
M1, I kept pulling until the rim was gone then I got the idea to reverse he die. I punched the base off. I did clean the die with non residue brake cleaner then I flushed the die with pure alcohol from Lowes paint depth. I sprayed the brass heavily and Let it dry BUT I didn't spray the inside of the die. I probably learned that I screwed up but I don't remember for sure that I did. Thank you for that info. I might be brave enough to try it again in the future, I'll have to see. The oil pad and oil that I was using when I had to stop was working good. I just had to wipe the cases with the previously mentioned alcohol.
scpaul
Well-Known Member
I just remembered that I sent the die back to the manufactureer with an over caliber (shotgun?) bronze brush stuck in it from the base. They didn't return it though. Haha
hesse
Well-Known Member
Yes but I use the spray
hesse
Well-Known Member
Attachments
I spray the one shot and start
Sizing. I think it says wait one minute on the can. Never had an issue. If you stick a case you can drill and tap the case head and use a bolt washer and socket to easily remove it. You can you tube it.
scpaul
Well-Known Member
this was long enough ago that my laptop was about 3 or 4 inches thick, one of the early ones. The internet wasn't very old for the general public. I didn't have internet. I don't know if there was a " You Tube" back then. You have to remember that I've been loading since the mid 70"s. I guess that I got away from it about 8 to 10 years ago. I will remember the net if I run into anything like that again and with the net I've also got these forums for help.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks, Paul
scpaul
Well-Known Member
I just reread tour message and I have a case puller that is the same as what you described, RCBS?
Yes they sell one but you can easily make one yourself.
Brownell's has two types of Accra Release, the liquid, and the spray. I have used the spray for 30 years.
On another topic concerning Hornady One Shot, I found that if you spray the cases, let the wax set up on them for 15 minutes, you get very good results. I use commercial cookie sheets to place the brass on. Two methods, you can stand the cases up on the cookie sheet, spray from one range, then rotate, spray again. Another method is to lay them down on the cookie sheet, spray, tilt the cookie sheet rolling the cases around, then spray again.
I consider it critical to let the wax set up on the cases. If you are in a hurry, put the cookie sheet in the freezer for 10 minutes, the wax will set up.
I now make my own lube with HEAT and Lanolin.
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