Recoil management-poor shooting

[LRDSDMN]

Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.

Here's something you might try, although I don't know how probibitive getting to the range is in your local...
Try shooting just one good shot with that rifle, every trip to the range. Make a correction for zero (if needed). Then shoot other fun guns. After a few trips, you should be dialed in and know if the poor accuracy is due to flinching or not.
Unless, the rifle really has you beat-up and you can't get off a shot without the flinch. Then, you need to "fix" it (the gun, with numerous methods already detailed in prior posts) and get past the psychological side of it or send her down the road.
Also, having another good shooter shoot it would be a good way to rule out the gun. A lot faster too...
Best Regards and God Bless, Col

 

[longgun505]

Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.

Lead sleds are fine for zeros. Gather all your range data across the distances, and slip your scales. Next range visit take a few shots at a medium range for confirmation. You likely will notice very little difference in the range dope.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Wow, this rifle is a HUNTING rifle we are all concerned with here...it is NOT a bench gun and most likely will not be used in that manner in the field.
All one needs is a solution to shooting on the bench to sight in and do load development.
Why make it so hard by adding muzzle brakes, mercury recoil reducers and other wiz bang devices?
Buy some rubber padding, strap it to your shoulder while shooting off the bench and be done with it.
At my club, as of December 2020, brakes have been banned and the max calibre reduced to 8mm.
This rules out my use of the 338-416 Rigby Improved 45°, but prior to this ban, that rifle from prone without a brake was like getting hit by a 10lb sledge hammer.
Do what you can simply, no need to go to extremes to sight in and shoot a few groups with factory ammo.

Cheers.

 

[WahooYahoo]

What exactly do you not like about muzzle brakes? Noise? Concussion/muzzle blast, etc. Have you tried any? Which type or brand? Not all Muzzle brakes are created equal. If you have it threaded for 5/8-24" I have a few muzzle brakes I can send you to try if you want. An effective muzzle brake serves two purposes; it reduces felt recoil and reduces muzzle rise. The latter is often overlooked. Muzzle brakes are the most effective in recoil reduction and muzzle rise; better than suppressors. So yes, "I" would thread it for a muzzle device.

Yup. Exactly ^^^^^.
I hate muzzle breaks on other folks rifles. I detest em! But I love them on
my rifles.... all of my rifles

 

[3chester]

Accurizing The Factory Rifle,by M.L.McPhersen about $40 bucks. ThinkN he wrote that book about 20 years ago. Have always thought he's quite the Colorado Gunsmith out there. Never read anything in that book that did not make a rifle work just a little better. Oh yeah, he's also a believer in those wiz bang Mercury Recoil devices. Tried em for trap shooting, then put a few in rifles too.They work pretty sweet, easy DIY install, but keep fightN it if ya can't spare $50 to try one.

 

[FEENIX]

Accurizing The Factory Rifle,by M.L.McPhersen about $40 bucks. ThinkN he wrote that book about 20 years ago. Have always thought he's quite the Colorado Gunsmith out there. Never read anything in that book that did not make a rifle work just a little better. Oh yeah, he's also a believer in those wiz bang Mercury Recoil devices. Tried em for trap shooting, then put a few in rifles too.They work pretty sweet, easy DIY install, but keep fightN it if ya can't spare $50 to try one.

About 5 years ago, there was a new small gun store, and they have a small machine/gunsmithing service behind the shop. Try to learn and expand my gunsmith list, and I asked what muzzle brakes he carries and recommends. He keeps insisting on the mercury recoil device. It made the conversation short, and he never made it to my list. And yes, I have tried them and did not care for them.

 

[Chas1]

He keeps insisting on the mercury recoil device. It made the conversation short, and he never made it to my list. And yes, I have tried them and did not care for them.

+1 I don't care for merc devices either.

 

[Northkill]

Where? Here's an option for threading: Hoover Precision Rifles in MT. PM for contact info if you wish. I'm from PA but ship my rifles out there as needed. Other guys on this site can do it as well, I'm sure. Feenix?

If you will only use the rifle occasionally on a hunt, you can utilize the many simple & practical ideas presented in this thread. Now if you really like the rifle and would expand it's use if it was comfortable to shoot, then don't slam the door on good and effective butt & muzzle options.

 

[3chester]

Guess haven't had one of those Mercury tubes not make an improvement in recoil reduction so, not sure what ya did wrong on ur install. Was tryN to help the guy that askD the question,about taming his Sako 300WSM without using a muzzle brake, so,JustSayN

 

[Rick06]

Hi everyone, I need some help. I own among many other rifles of sako finnlight in 300 WSM. For the life of me I cannot sight it in anything better than a 3 inch group... Unfortunately, I have to admit this is due to my inability off managing the recoil and shooting it without a flinch. The gun is about 7 1/2 pound scoped and it beats me up bad. I also own a 9 pound 375H&H and I can shoot that one with no problem... This little WSM however just beats me. I'm planning to take this rifle for a mountain hunt this summer and I am wondering what should I do to properly sight it in? Would you have it threaded and use a muzzlebreak or a can? The problem is I detest muzzle breaks and a can make the gun rather unwieldy. Would you think sighting it in in a lead sled like device would be reasonable? I can shoot it for a couple rounds without the sled but then the wheels come off as it starts to beat me up, therefore I am unable to even sight it in right now.... Anyways, any suggestions are welcome and if you think it is best to thread it where would you have it done? I live in by the twin cities in MN.

 

[aOWENc]

I would buy a suppressor. Really slows the recoil impulse and cuts back on the blast. Well worth the $600-1000. I'd get rid of most of my rifles before I got rid of my suppressor.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Had a 1lb Mercury recoil reducer in my custom CZ550 505 Gibbs...yes it SLOWED the recoil pulse, but the shove with and without it was the same.
Do the figures; 9lbs total weight (with the recoil reducer fitted) 600g bullet at 2350fps 148g Retumbo in Norma brass. 8lbs without the recoil reducer.

Cheers.

 

[FEENIX]

Just an example of what a muzzle brake can do, and IMHO, there are better MBs out in the market than this ...

 

[Ftothfadd]

Dear all,
Thank you very much for everyone's input. I'm feeling a little silly after reading all these responses and then checking my gun cabinet and finding an uninstalled limbsaver recoil pad lying around in the drawer... It is sure installed on the gun now! Also, I have a past recoil shield but, I accidentally left it at home before I went to sight in the gun and I aggravated the situation by only going in my T-shirt... You would think with a DVM and Ph.D. I could figure this out, but clearly commonsense is not nearly as common as one would believe. Anyways, I hope to get back to the range in a couple weeks, this time with the recoils shield on my shoulder and the limbsaver pad installed, and hopefully will be able to print some decent groups.
Speaking of which, any advice for a YouTube video which actually shows the proper technique shooting an unbreaked, relatively lightweight magnum rifle off bipods from a bench would be helpful. I'm really thankful for all your advice, Ferenc