Shooting Extreme recoiling rifles

I also had recoil problems with an AICS Chassis System on a 300 Winmag. I realized that my 338 Edged had less recoil when shooting for long periods. Changed out the stock for a Whidden 140 and the problem went away. I think the main difference was the surface area at the back of the stock.

Randy
 
Here is a picture of 2 Assassin brakes. The big black one is tuned for the 50. The little stainless one is tuned for my 7 RUM. I have Assassins on all my rifles except for one. I just ordered another for my son. My custom 300 RUM has a OAL of 3.98 and I fill the case with 103.3 grains of 33. It pushes that 230 Berger 3200 fps with a felt recoil of 45 lbs. without the brake. With the tuned Assassin on the end of the tube....14 lbs. worth every penny.....ask my shoulder!!!
 

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Does anyone have any tips for shooting an extreme recoiling rifle? I purchased a new gun and every time I get ready to shoot it. I close my eyes and flinch so bad because I know what's coming. I have only shot this rifle off of a bench. It's extremely accurate and a great long range shooter. The gun has an efficient muzzle break and I even have a suppressor for it. When I'm on the bench I try to hold the rifle tight in my shoulder. Lean forward into the rifle and pull the two stage trigger. Wow...... I get rocked and I'm an average guy 6 foot 1 195lbs. Any suggestions would be helpful...



Any Experienced shooter will tell you none of these things are good for accuracy.

Different people have different tolerances to recoil. And It has nothing to do with toughness.

I can manage around 85 ft/lbs before it starts to effect my accuracy. some have more resistance
to recoil, But the majority prefer around 25 ft/lbs of recoil, or less to be comfortable.

Even though someone thinks they are "Tough" and can handle more, they risk the chance of a
Retinal Detachment when shooting high recoiling rifles.

I have a 50 BMG and the recoil without any form of Muzzle is over 115 Ft/lbs of recoil (To much to be safely shot even buy the toughest) without some form of muzzle brake.

The most effective way to reduce recoil is a Muzzle brake. there are many other ways also, but they are far less effective.

Each person has to decide whether he wants to put up with recoil or not. Lots of rifles don't need
any form of recoil reduction, others require some form of recoil reduction in order to be manageable
and accurate.

I will choose manageable and accurate, over tough and macho every time.

Just My Opinion.

J E CUSTOM
 
Many people who have developed a flinch will flinch no matter what they are shooting. I have seen people flinch while shooting 22 rim fires. Devices to reduce recoil are a good thing in most instances and should be used when possible. Personally, I do not use brakes on hunting rifles while hunting with the exception of the 375 Chey-tac. I have forgotten to put ear protection on a few times and have paid a heavy price.

Anyway flinching is in a persons head and is not always caused by the anticipation of pain inducing recoil. Many people do not flinch at all on the bench but will flinch horribly when shooting at game. This is usually caused by an uncontrollable urge to get it over with. The shooter wants the prize buck on the ground so bad he rushes things, the sight picture wobbles, his mind freaks out and screams, shoot, hurry. Sooo, he picks his head up off the stock, shoves the rifle forward, slaps the trigger and misses by three or four feet.

I have witnessed this type of flinching numerous times during varmint hunting expeditions. In each case very accomplished shooters shooting .233s or 22-250s had forgotten to chamber a Rd. The coyote or bobcat suddenly appeared, the shooters brought their rifles up, dropped the hammers on an empty chambers and produced some of the most spectacular flinches I have ever witnessed.

So, this brings me back to my philosophy on curing a flinch. Flinching is not a rational behavior and cannot be cured by rational thought. You must learn to re-channel the dread and overactive anticipation into focus. This is done through training, the helper load the gun method is one way to train that has proven to be effective.
 
Flinch is not always caused by recoil! Sometimes it is caused by muzzle blast. I have gotten very sensitive to the muzzle blast on my RUMS. When at the range I have started using expandable foam plugs topped with a good set of muffs and it has helped me. My recoil flinch doesn't rear it's ugly head until my shoulder starts to get sore and that is a different story. When hunting I now wear a walker game ear in my right ear (lefty) this ear is the one that tends to be affected by the muzzle blast.
 
Flinch is not always caused by recoil! Sometimes it is caused by muzzle blast. I have gotten very sensitive to the muzzle blast on my RUMS. When at the range I have started using expandable foam plugs topped with a good set of muffs and it has helped me. My recoil flinch doesn't rear it's ugly head until my shoulder starts to get sore and that is a different story. When hunting I now wear a walker game ear in my right ear (lefty) this ear is the one that tends to be affected by the muzzle blast.

I agree... actually trying to save up for a pair of the game ears for this season. But they're not cheap!
 
My first time shooting a 50, I didn't shoot it worth a crap. Then next time I shot it was much better. I was actually able to see the round impact steel at 400yards which was spectacular to say the least. Perhaps a better muzzle brake and more trigger time will help you.
 
One of the biggest things I see when someone is flinching is they aren't really intent on performing well. They are often trying to rush the game and aren't following through properly. They begin to anticipate getting walloped, whether it is noise or recoil.
My brother (also a member here) at one time couldn't hit a standing deer at 100 yards nor could he get over 300win level recoil on the bench and do well. This is a guy that I've seen shoot two different deer at 1/4 mile at full run while standing or crouching (one deer each way) with one shot each. He was able to get his head in the game on the running shot but couldn't when he had time to over think and second guess the game at hand.
To cure his flinching issues we used a combo approach with sarcasm, ridicule, many trips to the range, the buddy loading system, and extremely heavy recoiling rifles. He's well cured now but I still see him wince once in a while when I pull out my lightweight 375 H@H or ask him to shoot my 300rum.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
In addition to the suggestions of using a different brake and a different stock.

Shoot prone.

I've never seen an military sniper shoot off a bench.
 
Trigger Time and Solid Fundamentals, After you are set and the rifle is fully in your grasp. Cheek weld, shoulder weld, shooting hand is firm other other arm wrapped properly eye relief on point, scope dialed in?.. Simply Squeeze the Trigger.. Nothing else. The rifle will perform to it's potential.. Just my 2..
 
There are two ways to handle rifle recoil. You either fight it be leaning in and absorbing as much as possible, or you relax your back, pull it in close and tight and just go with it.

Put on the best brake you can afford.

Put some additional padding between you and the rifle either with a strap on pad for yourself or slip on for the rifle.

If your cheek is sore after shooting you need additional padding there as well.

Make up your might if you are going to fight it or go with it and practice.

Keep your shooting strings to 3 shots and your shooting sessions short and that will help a bunch.

50cal's are fun for about 3 shots and that's it.
 
Stand next to the bench when you shoot. Just about everybody in PA shoots from
a bench while hunting. Lots of guys have taken to stand up shooting especially with
heavy recoiling guns like large 338s and 50s.
 
Having shot the M2 a fair amount when I was in the service I've never had a great desire to own a bolt gun in that round. However I've watched college age girls shoot the Armalite 50 from the bench and they wanted to shoot more rounds after the first one. I think the trick with the 50 BMG is just a REALLY GREAT MUZZLE BRAKE.
I didn't have a brake on my 500 A-Square. I could shoot it from the bench but didn't very much. Most of my 458 s didn't have brakes on them but I got so I could shoot them well. Same with my 416 s. The noise part of a brake can be a concern but it can be felt with hearing protection. .

The actual crunch into your shoulder can be reduced with lighter bullets. But in a 50 you still have world class recoil .
 
Rifles like the McBros Tac 50 must have very good recoil dissipation or they wouldn't be repeatably accurately shootable at long range. If a great brake won't solve it for you. Peddle it and go to a lighter recoiling rifle.
 
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