Shooting heavy recoiling rifle from bench-beginner here

Let's address the elephant in the room..... if you're a new shooter why are you shooting a cannon to begin with? What got you to the point where you selected that particular rifle? Is it a need or a want?
 
Let's address the elephant in the room..... if you're a new shooter why are you shooting a cannon to begin with? What got you to the point where you selected that particular rifle? Is it a need or a want?
I tend to agree....there is nothing in north america that cannot be killed with a 30-06, 7mm rem mag or less. That being said, I have a 338 Norma being built, but it will have a brake because it makes no sense not to have a brake on such a heavy recoiling rifle that I plan on shooting extended long ranges.
 
Good points. So, I am not that new of a shooter. In fact, this is my third 338 wm rifle. I also have a 308, a 300 WBY and a 375H&H. I have been hunting for 25 years, though admittedly in the past decade I mostly used my bow. Recently, I got interested a bit in training to shoot targets at longer ranges, and since I was planning to take my 338 to AK, I decided to practice on that rifle some. I am fairly decent with my 308 and 300 WBY, but I was dismayed by how inconsistently I was able to shoot the 338...
 
Good points. So, I am not that new of a shooter. In fact, this is my third 338 wm rifle. I also have a 308, a 300 WBY and a 375H&H. I have been hunting for 25 years, though admittedly in the past decade I mostly used my bow. Recently, I got interested a bit in training to shoot targets at longer ranges, and since I was planning to take my 338 to AK, I decided to practice on that rifle some. I am fairly decent with my 308 and 300 WBY, but I was dismayed by how inconsistently I was able to shoot the 338...
Stringing in groups may also be due to bedding issues. Just another thing to checl should different hold techniques not pan out
 
As one increases horsepower the flaws in a shooting system become more apparent.

For me, these days, compared to a decade(s) ago an un-braked .338 isn't something I would shoot well.

There are stocks that mitigate recoil much better than Sako as well.

Depending on how you anticipate using the rifle, the heavier scopes can also tame the beast a bit.
 
The issue is I am happy to sight in from bags, but then, how will I shoot in hunting application from the bipod...

I got away from the magnum bolt face about 15yrs ago myself. Maintaining POI through different positions is no trivial thing. I like carrying relatively lightweight rifles, don't care for muzzle brakes, but the rifles I like the most are the ones that shoot where they are pointing, regardless of the position or hold.

That said, as @J E Custom and others have stated, look into the stock and bedding, you might be able to address some of the issue there.

If you're keen on the bi-pod, a tactical stock (with a thick, rigid forend) may also help prevent stressing of the bedding/action . One of the problems could be that you have a relatively heavy rifle supported by the very tip of a slim (and thus flexible) stock.

Everyone suggests bags on the bench because it's the easiest way to take the most variables out of the equation. Do you know your rifle/ammo/optics are consistent? If not, start there. If so, game on!
 
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scope eyebrow cuts can easily be avoided ,1st off scopes to far back, 2nd you maybe crawled forward on your stock, OP the heavier your bullet choice the more recoil , lots an lots of good advice as usual. try shooting off of a set of Bull Bags, their heavy and you squeeze your forend threw the bags, rifle control goes hand in hand with consistency ,when a had my 338w/mag built I went with a heavier conture bbl and more length for add weight which does tame recoil a bit, But I did struggle learning how to Rock n Roll with her which made me shoot her less,after a while I told myself that rifles not gonna beat me I own her n i'm gonna shoot her till I get her dwn pat, ya I cheated a bit and had her EDM ported and that really helped!!! i'm a sako fan have them in a few calibers but no md85's ..... Congrats on your Fine choice ya the 338 is by far the Mildest and Most Efficent of all the 338's made IMHO......stay the corse Great on you !!!!
 
Recently, I got interested a bit in training to shoot targets at longer ranges, and since I was planning to take my 338 to AK, I decided to practice on that rifle some. I am fairly decent with my 308 and 300 WBY, but I was dismayed by how inconsistently I was able to shoot the 338...

If you're wanting to train to shoot targets at longer distances, you picked the wrong rifle. You'd be better off focusing on learning the fundamentals with the 308, then pull out the cannon when you've got a yeti or mastadon that needs to be shot.
 
Thank you. Pls keep the suggestions coming. Some more info. The rifle wears a fairly heavy laminated stock which aapears hefty and very rigid, so I do not belive the bipod loading makes it flex/touch the barrel. I am reluctant to blame the gun for the vertical stringing.( its predecessor, a very light tikka T3 hunter 338 wm was sold because of poor grouping) now I am satrting to believe it was the indian and not the arrow,.. due to the heavier weight I shoot the sako quite a bit better but still not perfect. I might try to shoot her from a bag next time and we shall see...
 
Thank you. Pls keep the suggestions coming. Some more info. The rifle wears a fairly heavy laminated stock which aapears hefty and very rigid, so I do not belive the bipod loading makes it flex/touch the barrel. I am reluctant to blame the gun for the vertical stringing.( its predecessor, a very light tikka T3 hunter 338 wm was sold because of poor grouping) now I am satrting to believe it was the indian and not the arrow,.. due to the heavier weight I shoot the sako quite a bit better but still not perfect. I might try to shoot her from a bag next time and we shall see...
Have a smith check it out for floating and to inspect the bedding. Even the slightest amount of stress on either the action or barrel can cause stringing. Even improper torquing of the stock screws can screw you up pretty badly.

What weight is this rifle? Lightweigh and magnum is not a good combination and the heavier the bullet the greater the felt recoil all else being equal.

There are felt recoil calculators available online. Run the numbers on all of your rifles and that's likely to open your eyes a bit as to why each of them is having the effects on you they are having.
 
The rifle is just under 10 Pounds scoped.
The barrel is definitely floating.
I think when you take it to get the bedding and torque checked out you'd be wise to add a Limbsaver's Pad.

At some point you should really consider just biting the bullet and putting a good side/top discharge brake on it.

I've got the NWP MB from Mac's on all of my hard biters and it has made them fun to shoot.

https://www.macsgunworks.com/product-page/copy-of-nwp-muzzle-brake

They make a great suppressor too.
 
Surprised this thread ran as long as it did without asking a pretty obvious and easy question.... why is a muzzle brake "not allowed"?..... as stated by the OP? Would be a pretty effective first step along with all the other technique-aspects presented here.
 
Another small tip in practicing for an important hunt with a hard kicking rifle. Shoot it a little, often. For instance, 3 rounds a day is better than a box once a week. Shoot as often as you can, always take another gun, and don't shoot the big one enough to cause fatigue. When groups get larger, or you start missing steel, put it away, and play with the other rifle.
 
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