New rifle...... Flinching

I'd agree with others on extra ear protection. That muzzle blast with the brake can really get a shooter. Lighten that trigger up to 2-2.5 lbs. Face on the gun, breathing, dry fire. Hold the trigger and follow through. So many guys forget this step. Call your shot. If you can't call your shot you're not having a certain sight picture when you pull the trigger. You're looking but not seeing the crosshairs on the bullseye. And as mentioned before take 2 guns with approximately same trigger pull. 22 or 223. Practice the basics.
Good info. I'll try it. Thanks
 
Like you i have been shooting all my life (since age 7) . Several years ago i started shooting sporting clays. Great sport and tons of fun. Age and arthur caught up with me and had to give it up. Started back into shooting rifle and could not shoot a decent group. Flinching very much effected my shooting. took my 22lr rifle and started shooting 100 to 200 rnds. at least once a week. Every shot concentrated on squeezing trigger and not blinking or jerking trigger. Claybirds at 100 yds. was good for me because i could see the the hits if i did not flinch or blink. All was cured after about 4-5 sessions at the range. Shooting a rifle as big as yours it may take a lot of concentration because you already know it has a lot of recoil.
Ok. I'll try it. Sounds good. Thanks
 
If you reload load it much lower than factory until you get used to the rifle.
That is what I had to do with my 300 weatherby mag when I first got it many years ago and now I can shoot it all day without flinching.
Killed many animals with it.
I hate brakes as I am now legally deaf because of a brake.
One caution,never ever go below minimum load in your manual.
Ok. thanks
 
Another thing that can aggravate the issue of rifles with heavy recoil is if the stock does not fit the shooter correctly. A small misalignment can make a big difference.
Ok. I'll have to pay better attention how it feels. Thanks
 
I became friends with a gunsmith benchrest shooter many years ago. I had a 22-250 that he glass bedded and worked up an accurate load for. We shot it for group and I shot 5-6 inch group. He shot it and his group was less than an inch. He instructed me how to and as he was talking he chambered an empty case. When I pulled the trigger the gun clicked and jumped up from the front bag. My next lesson was to dry fire at target without flinching. Very difficult, even after hundreds of dry fires. He said never shoot off hand at moving target as almost no one can do that without flinching. Even with a 2 ounce trigger(which is easier to not flinch) I have to concentrate. I also have a 338-378 shooting 300 grn bullets and it has a brake. It weighs 56lbs and does not move at all when shooting. Even with that with 2 ounce trigger I have to concentrate not to flinch. The human body is programmed and it tightens up to accept the "punch" it knows is coming. We are fearfully and wonderfully made. Being aware of flinching, dry firing, light trigger and more weight helped me. When shooting "light guns" I wear shoulder pad and only shoot a few rounds to keep from flinching. I have light guns for hunting when walking but no longer enjoy shooting in that environment due to all of the above. Very few that wont flinch.
Dang. Ok thanks
 
OP, I feel your pain. I flinch horribly. Goes back to 60's era hunting with a Rem 700 7mag. Unfortunately, Ear protection wasn't a big thing in college days and no money to port barrel. Terrible recoil pad.
So, is the muzzle blast the culprit or the recoil, or both.
If the muzzle blast is causing the flinch then get a break with the ports going 90 degrees or slightly forward. The trade off is more recoil:(
If recoil, then a limb saver recoil pad will help.
The best answer will take over 11 months if you start today. Get a suppressor. Again, get a suppressor. It will solve muzzle blast and recoil.
Good luck.
Wow. A lot of guys say suppressor. Maybe that's the key. Thanks
 
a 28 Nosler or 7 STW will get you over 1600 ft lbs at 1000 yards shooting a 180 gr bullet. It will be much more pleasant to shoot, you won't flinch as bad, and you will make better shots. If you don't like 7mm, then one of the magnum 30s will do the same thing with a 210+ gr. bullets. 338s are great for big animals, but they're not easy to shoot well for most people, especially the 378. A lower energy bullet into the vitals is better than a high energy bullet into the guts.
Definitely not a 7mm fan. Really hoping to get this worked out. Got a lotta good info from these guys to try. I wont hunt with it unless it's accurate. Dreaming of big energy accurately. Period. Should be achievable. Thanks for the info.
 
it is you dry fire, dry fire range time a 300 win will do elk moose at 1000 but only in the hands of a good rifle men you can buy your way in to long range gear but it will not make you a long range shooter till you train 1000-1500 rounds and you can put hits on your steel and big just big cal rifles arr not always the ans
Wow. Big calibers are awesome. If you can shoot em accurately. Not interested in shooting a plate at 1000 yards only to not see the plate move. I see guys do it. Got a $5000 spotting scope just to see a hit. Not me, I wanna see it swing.
 
This is the long term equipment solution. I shoot a far amount, not 300 rum but 7 short mag with 190s. First, consider reloading as tuning your load with high BC bullets and a slower burn rate powder, while sacrificing some velocity for accuracy and comfort does make a difference in felt recoil. I recently shot a two day match with 190 grain bullets and it was very pleasant. Second, not all muzzle brakes are created equally. Some reduce recoil and muzzle jump but increase felt concussion and blast to the shooters face. I am sensitive to that and found two brakes that have been designed to reduce this. APA Gen 3 fat bastard and the Area 419 Sidewinder are very effective brakes. That said, the best device for recoil reduction and reducing or eliminating concussion is a suppressor. I know it sucks to acquire one, and I hesitated going through the process for several years. My humble advise is just do it and get the best one you can afford. I shot ever so matches suppressed and several braked. At the end of the day after 100 rounds down range I notice more fatigue, like my face is beat up or wind burned after shooting with any brake. With a suppressor I feel the same as if I had not fired a round all day. On video, I break shots and don't bat an eye suppressed, with the brake there tends to be an instinctive blink more shots than not. I dry fire EVERY day and it surely helps with trigger timing abs breaking the shot, but nobody likes getting punched in the face and I still have to fight the flinch reflex when live firing. One training method to really see how bad your flinch condition is is have random dummy rounds loaded in you box of ammo so you never know if it's hot or not. Occasionally doing this training method has helped me. All that said the BEST mechanical add on solution for "the flinch" is a suppressor imo. (If it's allowed in your state)
Ok thanks a lot. I am hesitant to get a supressor. May try one of those brakes. Thanks a lot
 
My buddy has a 6.5 pound 375 H&H ackley with brake that i sight in every year for him.

It is loud, muzzle blast is incredible, and it still kicks pretty hard.

Double ear protection, hat and glasses, and a heavy coat really help.

Good form is a must or you'll get smacked.

I don't flinch but i can only shoot the "big magnums" about 10 times really well with minutes between firing before they start to sting.
 
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