New rifle...... Flinching

My question is: why would you take a shot at any animal at 1000 yards. Stalk in or call it to you and make an accurate shot at under 400 yards. The risk at 1000 yards is a wounded animal that can suffer for days. There is nothing macho in that.
As for recoil, yes the noise level of a brake can definitely cause flinching. You probably don't want it on when hunting because you are not going feel any recoil when you take the shot.
Wow, I think you are on the wrong site. I wanna shoot long range accurately. I've spent my whole life killing animals at short distances. Just wanted to try long range. Not interested in wounding anything. Definitely wanna kill quickly anything I'm shooting at. That's why I'm on this site. Long range accurately. Why I asked for help.
 
Brakes are great devices, the good ones are at least. However, for concussion imo it's not the best, and concussion sensitivity causes the flinch. Suppressors adequately reduce recoil and muzzle rise with almost no concussion. There are brakes that have much less concussion on the shooter than others but If it is feasible a suppressor is the best solution imo. I would shoot with one exclusively if it weren't for restrictions in certain states.
Good info. Thanks
 
I think you may be experiencing several different issues. Some have been mentioned. First use double ear protection with a high quality electronic set of ear muffs. If it is the noise of the muzzle brake it should handle that. The second issue may be the bullet—just because you want to shoot a certain type/grain of bullet in a gun doesn't mean it matches with the rifle/barrel. Some NEVER will shoot well! Also are you using a strong vise or rest as you are shooting? Just because you can shoot one gun off a certain rest or bipod doesn't mean you can pick up a new rifle and do the same without putting lots of rounds down range. A dumb question—are you certain that your mounts/rings are torque down to specs? Another cause for erratic bullet patterns. Good luck!
I'm shooting Nosler 300 grain bullets. But I'll never know how they shoot till I get my head on straight. I understand the gun will define what bullet, I'm just not to that point yet. I'm shooting off front bipods and rear sand bag. But I did put it in a lead sled and when I shot I felt me flinch so bad I moved the sled!!I have checked my rings, but I'm sure it's me. Headcase for some reason.
 
So many have said their part, and everything I am about to say has already been said but I'll share my experience anyway. I shot a 270 win my whole life, got into big game and western hunting and wanted a bigger round so I bought a 300 win mag without a threaded barrel that would bruise my shoulder after shooting a box of ammo. Then I decided I wanted a muzzle brake and a heavier barrel for more accurate and to reduce the recoil so I bought a rifle with those features and I started jumping out of my seat every time I pulled the trigger. I could feel the blast from the brake hit me like a slap in the face, I would blink and pull my head back a little... after a few boxes of ammo this because anticipatory and I flinched bad - like shooting 7" groups at 100 yards kind of bad.

I consulted the internet and did all the drills people recommended like having someone randomly load or unload my rifle so I didn't know if I shooting a round or not... several 100 rounds of this stupidity later I gave up and started shooting my 300 win mag without the brake for some random reason, and after a box of ammo I was sub MOA and closing in on 0.5 MOA. Keep in mind, the rifle without the brake would literally jump after each shot and I'd have to reestablish my shooting posting each time I pulled the trigger, and despite this I was both precise and accurate.

It was at this point I realized my issue was not felt recoil but rather the blast from the brake. No fundamentals of shooting lecture will help you to get used to a constant high velocity cloud of hot gas and dust hitting your eyes - you are biologically programmed to blink and flinch when this happens. I doubled up my hearing protection, put on actual safety goggles so the blast stopped kicking dirt into my eyes, threw on a down vest and a carhart jacket overtop to reduce the concussion I felt, pulled my hat down over my eyes and scope, and pull the hood of my jacket over top of that... and I laid down prone behind my 300 win mag with the big brake and proceeded to shoot 0.5 MOA group after 0.5 MOA group. It was cathartic. I shot like this for several months just happy to shoot my rifle accurately.

... and then I bought a brake the didn't kick so much junk back at me, and its been fine since (even with standard ear/eye pro and a tee shirt). So the moral of this story is to buy more stuff. Its not you, its your gear. You just need more rifles and muzzle devices.
Lol. I like your thinking. I'll try what you did. May be all it is. Thanks
 
I knew someone would mention the need more just out of curiosity what's the holdover for 1500 yards 25 feet or so lol. I say stay at 500 yards and become a. better hunter
I'm surprised there's some of you guys against long range on this site. I have all the heads I need on my wall. Not about being a hunter. It's about being a good long range hunter at this point in my life.
 
My buddy has a 6.5 pound 375 H&H ackley with brake that i sight in every year for him.

It is loud, muzzle blast is incredible, and it still kicks pretty hard.

Double ear protection, hat and glasses, and a heavy coat really help.

Good form is a must or you'll get smacked.

I don't flinch but i can only shoot the "big magnums" about 10 times really well with minutes between firing before they start to sting.
Yeah maybe I just need to go back to the basics. Thanks for the info.
 
I recently put a Weatherby Accubrake on a Weatherby 30-06 to lesson recoil and lessen any possible flinch. Now some will say a 30-06 isn't much recoil but when shooting for smallest possible groups recoil for some is a no no, so to each their own and my groups instantly went form 3/4" to 1/4". on the other end of the spectrum I have a 338 Allen Xpress launching 300gr bullets under 106grs of RL33 and I haven't and wouldn't even think about pulling the trigger without it's muzzle brake...having said that this rifle took some time getting use too not because of recoil but just the sheer size had me anticipating recoil (all in my head) cause it actually recoils about like a 243. Point is after a while that anticipation went away. A 338-378 is pretty big so maybe your dealing with the anticipation but I think in time with enough firings it will fade. I know it did for me.
Sounds good. Thanks a lot
 
I used to shoot 20-40 rounds per session with my 338/378. I found I did better without the brake. The last time I shot it with the brake, I left the range with horrible headache. The concussion up the nose and a wallup in the face. I feel there are better brakes then the stock Weatherby one. I have since sold that rifle and have a TBAC 338 Ultra on order for my new 338LM improved.
Sounds like something to try. I couldn't shoot it without the break cause of a surgery. But a different one may be the answer. Thanks
 
I have 98B Barret 338 Lapua that I take to the range occasionally and I forewarn any neighbors in the stalls next to me that they should take a couple of notches up on their ball caps. The brake on that beast will blow your hat off 2 stalls away, it's funny but not funny. It kicks about like a 20 gauge shotgun shooting 250 grain Sierras.
I hear u. LOL. I have made me a private range so I don't destroy others hearing. It's LOUD
 
I Admire, Darrel Holland's,.. WELL thought out,. Hunting, Ethic's
My .338 Win Mag "Flinch" only, "sneaks up" on me,.. on,.. ODD Days !
Love my,.. 7.5 Pound, .270 WSM Tikka, with, 140's going, 3,185 FPS !
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top