I have had big capacity cartridges for many years and purchased a lathe so I could experiment with different chamberings and bullet velocities. What I have learned with shooting deer at long ranges is not so much as how the bullet cuts through the wind (B.C.) but how much remaining energy the bullet retains on impact. With a 6.5 creedmore, which is a small case with a long skinny bullet and high sectional density(long length relative to diameter) is mainly a hole puncher with low remaining energy for long range hits on whitetails and even more critical(not sufficient) for elk. Time and expense enter in if one decides to build a custom long range rig to have a good and effective rifle. However their are some factory rigs that will suffice. I would suggest buying a Savage target in 338 Lapua. It is very reasonably priced and will have enough remaining energy to kill an elk at long range. Ammo and components very available. Also has effective brake. I shudder to think trying to kill that large of an animal with a 243-308 size case. Yes, you can hit your target, but the bullet dispenses little or no hydrostatic shock at extended ranges, which is necessary for clean quicker kills.
Need some guidance..
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The ridgeline looks nice for a lightweight rifle.. Any other idea's for a lightweight one off the shelf?
WyoHunter1
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I have a 24" on my 300WSM and a 26 on my 300WBY. The short mag doesn't use as much powder so it is easier to get good velocity in the smaller case.
That 338 weighs 12lbs by itself?
greenejc
Well-Known Member
For a rifle you can buy either the Remington SPS, the CDL or the Ruger FTW Hunter in 30-06 or .300 Winmag. The ruger comes with a muzzle brake which is removable and has a balance weight. It also has a fully adjustable trigger, and rings are included. Both standard weight rifles will shoot inside an inch at 100 yards with good ammunition. Both rifles have 24 inch barrels in 30-06 and 26 in. in .300 WM, which will give you 2750 to 2800mv in 180 grain 30-06 and 2950 to 3,000fps in .300WM. You don't need to spend 2-3 thousand to get a good accurate rifle for what you want to do. For glass, check out Salvo or Shepherd Scopes on the internet. They have the best, most versatile hunting scopes on the market. I use the Shepherd 3 to 10 P1 or P2 reticle on my rifles. The rifle and scope combination will let you hit at any reasonable range out to 700 yards.
Preach it brother
rbTanzan
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Nice thoughts and advice in the thread.
Even though I'm partial to the 338WM, I can see good options in 30 calibers. Tikkas are sweet little platforms off the shelf and out of the box, light and generally very accurate. My personal inclination for 30 cal would be to get a Tikka 300WinMag and have it re-chambered to the new 300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge). The 300 PRC is the 375 Ruger necked down to .308" and basically duplicates 300 Weatherby ballistics. The 300 PRC fits in a standard length action with a .532" bolt face. A Tikka barrel is 24.4" and has a couple of thread beyond 24"that could be used to "set back" the barrel for the shoulder differences between the WinMag and PRC. In addition, the 300 PRC is not a wildcat but a factory offering through Hornady. On reloading, the Lee hand-press, and scales like the little Hornady G-2 make reloading on the move a real option.
Disclaimer: I do not own a 300 PRC or 300 Win Mag, I am merely offering advice on the directions that I might go if preparing a 30-cal elk rifle. It is always interesting to follow such plans from an armchair, watching on the web.
Even though I'm partial to the 338WM, I can see good options in 30 calibers. Tikkas are sweet little platforms off the shelf and out of the box, light and generally very accurate. My personal inclination for 30 cal would be to get a Tikka 300WinMag and have it re-chambered to the new 300 PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge). The 300 PRC is the 375 Ruger necked down to .308" and basically duplicates 300 Weatherby ballistics. The 300 PRC fits in a standard length action with a .532" bolt face. A Tikka barrel is 24.4" and has a couple of thread beyond 24"that could be used to "set back" the barrel for the shoulder differences between the WinMag and PRC. In addition, the 300 PRC is not a wildcat but a factory offering through Hornady. On reloading, the Lee hand-press, and scales like the little Hornady G-2 make reloading on the move a real option.
Disclaimer: I do not own a 300 PRC or 300 Win Mag, I am merely offering advice on the directions that I might go if preparing a 30-cal elk rifle. It is always interesting to follow such plans from an armchair, watching on the web.
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Just remember your gonna add about another 2" to a 26" barrel if you put on a brake. You wont loose much with a 24 or 25" tube.
COBHEAD
Member
The most of our elk are killed with a .308 followed up with 30-06 and 300rum, and we have all of the other stuff including a 6.5cm. You can get one later, but start with a .30 cal. ad learn to hunt and not just shoot.
Although a 6.5 Creedmore will kill an elk under the right circumstances, it's not enough gun for elk under many circumstances. Elk are BIG, majestic animals that deserve a quick and relatively painless death. I have seen an elk not even blink upon being hit with a 165 grain bullet from a 7 MM Rem mag square in the shoulder (from very short range). I firmly believe many elk "misses" are not misses, but wounded elk that will die a day, or week, later.
Elk cartridges start with the .300 mags and peak with the .338s. The .375 H&H is great elk medicine. Whatever you pick, be sure it has the power to quickly dispatch an elk with a "less than perfect" shot — because sometimes shots are less than perfect.
Most people do not need a brake on a .300 mag unless it's a LIGHT rifle. I shoot a .300 Weatherby without a brake as comfortably as I shoot my daughter's .260 Rem. (My .338-.378 Weatherby Mag wears a brake.) Above a .300 Mag most shooters appreciate a brake — but the negative of a brake is the absolute need for hearing protection. With a very light rifle a brake becomes critical. The hardest rifle to shoot well I've ever had my hands on was a mountain rifle in .270 WSM. The recoil was abusive.
WyoHunter1
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As far as a good shooting light rifle goes check out the Browning Hells Canyon. I bought my son one in 300 WSM and when they handed it to me I thought it was the wrong rifle in a 22 caliber, it was so light. For about $10 you can get an aftermarket trigger spring and install it your self. You can get the trigger set down to 3 lbs and only have about $1000 into the whole set up minus scope, rings and sling.
He also had an A-Bolt in 270WSM and was deadly with it. It was also very accurate.
The Brownings come in 300WM, 300WSM and 28 Nosler.
He also had an A-Bolt in 270WSM and was deadly with it. It was also very accurate.
The Brownings come in 300WM, 300WSM and 28 Nosler.
Thanks for the advice! I have a lot to think about
Roughwater
Well-Known Member
Tika's, Kimbers are pretty light weight. The gun I just bought, in a Browning X-bolt Hells canyon is fairly light at 6lbs 10 oz and is a magnum caliber (28 Nosler) but light for a magnum for sure considering it's one of the heavier Hells canyon models. The Browning X bolt Hells canyon models are beautiful guns to shoot and hold. They feel lighter than they really are. They have a protective finish that protects the metal from the elements which is another thing to consider while your sitting in the rain. The recoil pad is second to none.
This is just one of the great reviews this gun has received:
https://www.tactical-life.com/firearms/browning-hells-canyon-speed/
Don't forget to consider the rifles twist rate also. American guns often have slowish twist rates which sometimes prevents the heaviest, highest BC bullets from being used. Look for twist rates faster than 10 for sure. A 9 twist will accomadate most 30 cal and 7 mm bullets but a 8 or even less if using a smaller caliber is even better.
Bullets. I know most hunters when hunting Elk will use heavy for caliber bullets and for good reason. But what if you were able to find a lighther bullet that seemed just as deadly as a heavier one. What advantage would that have? Well velocity for one, more veloctity equals better flat shooting ability at least up to moderate ranges of say 800 yards. I found some bullets recently I am so impressed with. I killed a couple deer with them this year and they were DRT. Others have found them to be just as effective on Elk. Check out hammerbullets.com
I don't sell them but I guess you could say i'm a supporter or more accurately a fanoldfart. LOL
This is just one of the great reviews this gun has received:
https://www.tactical-life.com/firearms/browning-hells-canyon-speed/
Don't forget to consider the rifles twist rate also. American guns often have slowish twist rates which sometimes prevents the heaviest, highest BC bullets from being used. Look for twist rates faster than 10 for sure. A 9 twist will accomadate most 30 cal and 7 mm bullets but a 8 or even less if using a smaller caliber is even better.
Bullets. I know most hunters when hunting Elk will use heavy for caliber bullets and for good reason. But what if you were able to find a lighther bullet that seemed just as deadly as a heavier one. What advantage would that have? Well velocity for one, more veloctity equals better flat shooting ability at least up to moderate ranges of say 800 yards. I found some bullets recently I am so impressed with. I killed a couple deer with them this year and they were DRT. Others have found them to be just as effective on Elk. Check out hammerbullets.com
I don't sell them but I guess you could say i'm a supporter or more accurately a fanoldfart. LOL
