Mountain Gun build - What would you do different?

Thinking about getting a lighter mountain gun built. Below is what I am thinking, what would you do differently?

300 WSM
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI
Trigger - Jewel

Any ideas or thought would be appreciated.
Only thing I would add is be sure and have him make a thread protector. Not smart enough to know why, but a lite 300 WSM just doesn't kick like you think it should. You just might find that the recoil reduction just isn't worth the handiness you give up with the extra length.
 
I had Lex Webernck build me a 4.5 lb rifle then added Talley rings and bases 30 oz scope . Mountain hunting I have found my back pack works best as rest.
 
I'd buy a Remington Model Seven SS in 300 WSM. Personally, I'd get it in 7-08.

I've got a couple of Model Seven SS rifles. One in 7-08(20" barrel) and the other in a 7 SAUM(22" barrel).
 
Will preface comments below with I believe a mountain rifle to be something very light weight.

300 WSM Do you need this much power? Bigger bullets are more weight to carry around.
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech Too heavy
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist Too heavy
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break You only need a break in a light weight if your caliber is on the big end.
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI Too expensive
Trigger - Jewel If you prefer

What stock would you recommend? Also, is there another light action that you would recommend?
 
Too Heavy (Both Options) - Show us something lighter that is a better option (not plastic ****)

Too Expensive - The best costs money, too expensive for you isn't too expensive for all.
 
Too Heavy (Both Options) - Show us something lighter that is a better option (not plastic ****)

Too Expensive - The best costs money, too expensive for you isn't too expensive for all.
Wildcat composites makes a 17-19oz stock for many actions, as does pendleton stocks out of Oregon. If a guy were to use one of them, pierces new ti ultralight action, and a #1 contour barrel, a 4.75# rifle is possible! But it'll be high $$$$
 
Based on 30+ years of strictly mountain hunting all over the world I have formulated some personal parameters for a mountain rifle. FOR ME weight is ideally 6.5 to 7.0 lbs. (Maybe up to a max of 7.5 lbs) This is completely ready to hunt with scope,sling and full magazine, barrel 22" plus brake and preferably in 6.5 or 7mm as true high altitude critters do not require 30 cal. There are many ways to meet these guidelines resulting in the above physical parameters. As mentioned previously, balance is important and will be accentuated by a reduced weight firearm. The lightest bipod I have found is the Neopod. Distances are very deceptive in mountains so I usually use a ballistic turret on my scopes. Needless to say light rifles are more difficult to shoot to extended distances mandating addition dedicated practice in the common shooting positions as well as in various contortions. Above average physical conditioning is just as important if not more important than rifle weight. Mental toughness is a whole 'nother discussion.
 
Thinking about getting a lighter mountain gun built. Below is what I am thinking, what would you do differently?

300 WSM
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI
Trigger - Jewel

Any ideas or thought would be appreciated.

7RSAUM instead of 300 WSM. More versatile and the longer neck is a huge plus.
Stock - McMillan Hunters Edge - I have 3. Not sure if that's what you are looking at.
Lite carbon contour may not fit in a Hunter Edge - call McMillan
I would suggest looking at Pierce Engineering for a Ti action. I have one and its awesome and their CS is second to none. No experience with LPF Ti.

FWIW my 2 mountain rifles weigh with scopes 7lbs - 7-08 Ackley and 7lbs 4 oz 6.5 CM. Any heavier than this and its really not a mtn rifle IMO.

Let us know what you go with.
 
Carbon barrels are lighter then barrels of the same diameter generally. Most carbon barrels start at .625 OD so the comparison of being light is fudged a bit. A pencil barrel if normally good enough for 1-3 shots in a hunting rifle . If it were going to be used for competition with many shots in a row then of course a custom barrel that will also stay consistent as it heats up is a must . With numerous custom builds , I have a new mountain gun favorite ! The Kimber mountain ascent is unreal ! @ 4 lbs 13 oz before a scope in smaller calibers , I look for any excuse to take on with me . I liked it so much I have one in 5 calibers . My first test group in .308 shot .600's and I tuned a load to settle in around .500 . I feel there is more there but that is as far as I got so far as I am plenty happy with a hunting rifle that will shoot in the .500's . My passion is custom built rifles but I think you are missing out if you don't shoulder a mountain ascent!

5 lbs 9oz w/Talley mounts and Leupold 3x9x40
 
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Thinking about getting a lighter mountain gun built. Below is what I am thinking, what would you do differently?

300 WSM
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI
Trigger - Jewel

Any ideas or thought would be appreciated.
Ok I am a big boy 6 foot 1 played college football so when I say big I mean big. In fact when my wifes co-workers or customer (she is a chef) they always tell her when I leave "Wow you are not kidding your husband is a big boy!".....Why does this matter? One of my Brother in laws is a fantastic hunter prob. started hunting even younger than he could drive a tractor multiple African hunts etc...! That said he is 5 foot 5 145lbs. His fairly light weight Remington in 300 Win Mag beats the snot out of him on Mountain Hunts. This guy his fit, strong and muscular but the combination of light weight and 300 Win Mag not his best combo!

So I know you said 300WSM not Win Mag. That said if you do not need that much cartridge I would not use that much not if you are walking up and down these mountains or riding on horse back. The second you add "mag" after anything you limit your options in terms of barrel length and you almost always end up with a sharper recoil pulse. Under stand by sharper I do not always mean more recoil rather the amount of time that that recoil energy is applied to the rest of the rifle and you. A shorter recoil pulse feel like a hard recoil no matter what the energy says and a longer recoil pulse feels more like a push not a kick! Again the peak energy does not always = perceived recoil! As soon as you go magnum you need more barrel to allow for complete powder burn and useful expansion. If you go too short you waste powder and velocity of the magnum, you make more noise and get a huge fire ball at the end of the barrel for nothing really gained and you wear out the throat sooner by using a magnum over a non magnum.

I shoot a 32 inch AMU Profile Brux Barrel on my F-Class rifle but I would never want to carry a rifle that long for hunting ever. You would also never see me with a bipod on a Mount Rifle. I would want a good sling and a good set of light weight shooting sticks and maybe a boot sock or two filled with rice or beans or small fish tank gravel etc.... I have never in my 45 years on this earth having hunted in the USA, Europe and Africa ever seen a real hunter with a bibod on their hunting rifle. Sure I see them in the various magazines but never in real life. Imagine if you will a town of 1000 people and 880 of them hunt that is where my wife comes from! Even in that setting never seen anyone hunt medium to large game with a bipod. I am prob. just old fashioned but it is a bit mall-ninja-ish!

Do you really take a shooting mat with you on a big game hunt and find time to put it down with out being seen?

Very nice looking rifle though!

My Favorite Mountain Rifle is built on a Mauser 98 Action with a 1:8 twist 29 inch finished length Bergara SS #3 or #2 in 30-06. It is stocked in a very light weight Walnut stock made by me. You know normal stuff on the Mauser 98 everything true and concentric as possible. Quasi Pillar bedding and glass bedding. Not sure if that one has a 20 or 30 MOA base??? Sense it is a hunting rifle and not as competition rifle I went with a cheaper Weaver Super Slam 3-15x50 that I got a really good deal on. I usually tend to go cheap on hunting scopes always going with name brand gear but normally in the $300-$600 range. Why? I just do not need the same level of clarity to put a big piece of lead wrapped in copper into an Elk as compared to trying to win in a competition where group size matter above everything else and consistency trumps everything other than wind reading! With the Elk I just need to put that bullet into it's lungs and the rest is just a matter of time.

When it comes to muzzle breaks they make great sense if you plan on firing 60+ rounds from a bench or prone even though few places let you use them in competition. How many rounds do you expect to fire in day of hunting with a 300+ Super Whamy Wiz Bang Magnum in one day of hunting big game since no one hunts rabbits with a center fire magnum? If a rifle came with one from the factory like the old Browning A-Bolt with Boss I would leave it on but I would never have a real hunting rifle threaded for one especially not a mountain rifle were weight is the enemy. You typically get 3-5 rounds in most hunting rifles excluding ones designed to hunt humans! Your second and third shot will never be as good as your first shot so why bother with a muzzle break on a rifle designed specifically for mountain use? Looks a bit "Tactic-Cool" to me maybe a bit too much for my taste.
 
So after building about 2 dozen or more ultralight and lightweight rifles there's nothing wrong with a 300 WSM especially if your hunting Elk or Sheep in Grizzly country, but your going to need a brake or it will be miserable to shoot no question, especially if you may be shooting prone, I've seen lots of split eyebrows and noses from being scoped with a model 7 .308 nevermind a 300 wsm

Nice thing about a 300 wsm there's a lot of factory ammo choices and no issues getting brass or bullets, it's also a very good all round cartridge to hunt pretty much anything in North America.
A one and done rifle !
 
Bipods may seem "mall-ninja-ish" to some, but I have spent a lot of time in the mountains and my rifle always wears one. Obviously not always deployed when taking a shot, but once you get used to using one you find yourself constantly (subconsciously) scanning for good rests and places to use it. I also find that often if needing to take a quick glance at something through your scope ( I do this all the time to utilize 18x), you can quickly find a decent rest with the bipod and do so, instead of dropping your pack and getting settled.

Also, guess what, you'll never again need to find a tree, stump, or rock to lean your rifle on when taking a break from carrying it or need to put it down for some reason, just fold bipod legs down and your rifle is safely sitting without getting placed in the dirt or against a rock.

Ok I am a big boy 6 foot 1 played college football so when I say big I mean big. In fact when my wifes co-workers or customer (she is a chef) they always tell her when I leave "Wow you are not kidding your husband is a big boy!".....Why does this matter? One of my Brother in laws is a fantastic hunter prob. started hunting even younger than he could drive a tractor multiple African hunts etc...! That said he is 5 foot 5 145lbs. His fairly light weight Remington in 300 Win Mag beats the snot out of him on Mountain Hunts. This guy his fit, strong and muscular but the combination of light weight and 300 Win Mag not his best combo!

So I know you said 300WSM not Win Mag. That said if you do not need that much cartridge I would not use that much not if you are walking up and down these mountains or riding on horse back. The second you add "mag" after anything you limit your options in terms of barrel length and you almost always end up with a sharper recoil pulse. Under stand by sharper I do not always mean more recoil rather the amount of time that that recoil energy is applied to the rest of the rifle and you. A shorter recoil pulse feel like a hard recoil no matter what the energy says and a longer recoil pulse feels more like a push not a kick! Again the peak energy does not always = perceived recoil! As soon as you go magnum you need more barrel to allow for complete powder burn and useful expansion. If you go too short you waste powder and velocity of the magnum, you make more noise and get a huge fire ball at the end of the barrel for nothing really gained and you wear out the throat sooner by using a magnum over a non magnum.

I shoot a 32 inch AMU Profile Brux Barrel on my F-Class rifle but I would never want to carry a rifle that long for hunting ever. You would also never see me with a bipod on a Mount Rifle. I would want a good sling and a good set of light weight shooting sticks and maybe a boot sock or two filled with rice or beans or small fish tank gravel etc.... I have never in my 45 years on this earth having hunted in the USA, Europe and Africa ever seen a real hunter with a bibod on their hunting rifle. Sure I see them in the various magazines but never in real life. Imagine if you will a town of 1000 people and 880 of them hunt that is where my wife comes from! Even in that setting never seen anyone hunt medium to large game with a bipod. I am prob. just old fashioned but it is a bit mall-ninja-ish!

Do you really take a shooting mat with you on a big game hunt and find time to put it down with out being seen?

Very nice looking rifle though!

My Favorite Mountain Rifle is built on a Mauser 98 Action with a 1:8 twist 29 inch finished length Bergara SS #3 or #2 in 30-06. It is stocked in a very light weight Walnut stock made by me. You know normal stuff on the Mauser 98 everything true and concentric as possible. Quasi Pillar bedding and glass bedding. Not sure if that one has a 20 or 30 MOA base??? Sense it is a hunting rifle and not as competition rifle I went with a cheaper Weaver Super Slam 3-15x50 that I got a really good deal on. I usually tend to go cheap on hunting scopes always going with name brand gear but normally in the $300-$600 range. Why? I just do not need the same level of clarity to put a big piece of lead wrapped in copper into an Elk as compared to trying to win in a competition where group size matter above everything else and consistency trumps everything other than wind reading! With the Elk I just need to put that bullet into it's lungs and the rest is just a matter of time.

When it comes to muzzle breaks they make great sense if you plan on firing 60+ rounds from a bench or prone even though few places let you use them in competition. How many rounds do you expect to fire in day of hunting with a 300+ Super Whamy Wiz Bang Magnum in one day of hunting big game since no one hunts rabbits with a center fire magnum? If a rifle came with one from the factory like the old Browning A-Bolt with Boss I would leave it on but I would never have a real hunting rifle threaded for one especially not a mountain rifle were weight is the enemy. You typically get 3-5 rounds in most hunting rifles excluding ones designed to hunt humans! Your second and third shot will never be as good as your first shot so why bother with a muzzle break on a rifle designed specifically for mountain use? Looks a bit "Tactic-Cool" to me maybe a bit too much for my taste.
 
Bipods may seem "mall-ninja-ish" to some, but I have spent a lot of time in the mountains and my rifle always wears one. Obviously not always deployed when taking a shot, but once you get used to using one you find yourself constantly (subconsciously) scanning for good rests and places to use it. I also find that often if needing to take a quick glance at something through your scope ( I do this all the time to utilize 18x), you can quickly find a decent rest with the bipod and do so, instead of dropping your pack and getting settled.

Also, guess what, you'll never again need to find a tree, stump, or rock to lean your rifle on when taking a break from carrying it or need to put it down for some reason, just fold bipod legs down and your rifle is safely sitting without getting placed in the dirt or against a rock.
Well I would imagine your not hunting in very harsh places if you can afford to carry around an awkward rifle with a bipod attached to it and find a good place to put it down. So either the environment is not very harsh not exactly mountain terrain but in rather developed area's with road and man massaged environment.

In point of fact if someone is going to extremes to shave weight and suddenly after doing all kinds of stupid things to shave weight they go and slap a bipod on that person has lost all credibility. It is like someone talking about losing fat weight and exercising but you turn around and they are eating Krispy Kreme donuts or a box of Twinkies effectively throwing their credibility right out the window! So are we building a mountain rifle, varmint rifle, F-Class rifle or a tactical rifle? No way to build one rifle that does it all! Between 2lbs.-13 onces is the norm for store bought quality made bipods. On top of that you have the cost. The cost can match or exceed the price of a hunting rifle or custom barrel or a really nice stock! So you have cost and weight working against you! https://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/gun-shots/shooting-gear-we-test-8-premium-bipods#page-3
 
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