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Mountain Gun build - What would you do different?

What would you guys recommend on barrels? Hardy CF or Proof CF and why?

Also, advantages / disadvantages on going 22" vs. 24" barrel?

Thanks for all the feedback!
 
I only have experience with Proof so I can't comment on that.

Regarding barrel length, that's a preference thing, you are going to have to carry this thing around the mountains with you. I like a shorter barrel that's more handy. If the 50 fps per inch rule of thumb is accurate, then I'm 100 FPS slower than the next guy shooting an identical load. I could care less about 100 FPS. I'm shooting a 7 RM so it's not exactly a slouch. Some people would faint if they read this post as they like to chase velocity.

For me, I would only be chasing velocity on a dedicated canyon shooter, something that is 14+ lbs and won't get very far from the trail. If my style of hunting is ELR and I don't walk much, then I would want a long heavy barrel.

I like to be as far away from a trail/road as possible and I'm relatively sneaky, so I don't need those extra 2 inches and 100 FPS to kill my critters. Again, it's all personal preference.
 
You chose some good stuff. The Razor Ti should save a few oz. over the Fuzion. I might go with a different caliber...and a Neopod bipod (3.5 oz).

Here's my ultimate sheep/mountain build:
LP Razor Ti Short, Proof CF 24" bbl, Manners Elite Carbon EH3, Trigger Tech Diamond, in 6.5 SST w/ Swaro Z6i 5-30x50.
 
Only thing I would change in an ultralight setup is the caliber.
You can reach way out there and kill big stuff with a 180 grain 7mm bullet, or a 156 6.5..
Recoil will be an issue with a .300 mountain rifle, believe me I've done it.
 
^Thats about the only thing I would change as well- the caliber. You don't need a big rifle for sheep/goats/mule deer (typical mtn hunts). Personally for a mtn gun I like a 6.5 almost any of the 6.5's. If you want something light it should fit in a true short action, I went 260ai but a 6.5wsm , Sherman short, or gap 4s would be where I would go. My AI pushes a 129gr 3040fps, it can go a bit over 3100 before pressure signs hit but the top node I can hit is 3040.

I don't disagree with an intergral rail, esp on a Ti action. One less thing to fail and very minimal weight in Ti. Some high quality light mounts (murphy ti maybe) and it would make a really sweet setup.
 
I think everything sounds great. I love my 300 WSM. It's my dedicated elk rifle. I have a Sako 75 that I put into a McMillan Hunter stock and put a muzzle brake on it (the brake is a must in my experience). The barrel is 24" plus the brake. It's topped off with a Swarovski Z5. It's light and nimble. Honestly, I really don't notice on my shoulder as I'm humping up and down the mountain all day. You don't need less than a 1:10 twist (mine is a Sako factory 1:11), since it will handle all the bullet weights you'll ever use. A 180 gr bullet is a perfect combo for speed and performance. I changed to a 200 gr ELDX last season and it's a hammer on elk, although it didn't make the elk any more dead than the 180 gr Accubonds I used to shoot. It's a great cartridge. I think you'll be happy with your choice
 
Will preface comments below with I believe a mountain rifle to be something very light weight.

300 WSM Do you need this much power? Bigger bullets are more weight to carry around.
Stock - McMillan Hunter w/ Edge Tech Too heavy
Barrel - PROOF Lite Carbon 24" 1010 twist Too heavy
Harrells Gill Muzzle Break You only need a break in a light weight if your caliber is on the big end.
Action - Lone Peak Fuzion - TI Too expensive
Trigger - Jewel If you prefer
 
Thanks for all the replies! I have a 7RM and 300RUM already but they are 8.5 - 9.5 pound rifles. I wanted a shorter action and shorter barrel. I am still considering the 6.5 but I am leaning 300WSM due to the range of animals. deer, sheep, caribou, etc. Just makes me feel better shooting the bigger animals with a 30 cal vs. 6.5.
AGREE. a big 30 will kill anything a 6.5 will kill only better but a 6.5 will NOT kill everything a 30 can.

Ill take the minor weight(per cartridge) and recoil for the increased longrange energy tradeoff anyday!
James
 
What would you guys recommend on barrels? Hardy CF or Proof CF and why?

Also, advantages / disadvantages on going 22" vs. 24" barrel?

Thanks for all the feedback!

That's easy, a Proof Carbon barrel everyday over a Hardy, it will be much cheaper in the long run & it will shoot.

Make sure you get a great muzzle brake if you want to enjoyably shoot heavy bullets in a light rifle.
 
Depending on what you are after will dictate the caliber. here is my fave pack/mountain rifle for deer. Win 70 Feather weight carbine 270 win, 18" feather weight barrel, Chet Brown "pounder" stock, Leupold light weight 2-7 X 32MM (1" main tube), skeleton aluminum rings, and muzzle brake. Rifle, Scope, Sling and Bi-pod.. 6 pounds, 3 ounces.
 
A lot to like about this build. Lots of good advice here too. I love my 300 WSM from Accurate Ordnance. Proof 24", McMillan hunter stock Stiller action. I e read enough about Ti actions that I stay away from them. I'm an engineer and really pay attention to materials. From what I've read titanium is soft and mars easily. No thanks
 
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