For that kind of money you can buy 2 rifles that are shooters I've got a cheap savage that when I do my part will eat a nickle up for about 5 rounds before the barrel will get hot, and a browning with a boss in 7 mag it shoots lights out I bought it used I in98% condition for less than 600 dollars you can buy one used with really good glass for the kind of money you're going to spend
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Most accurate non custom
- Thread starter lawnboy1
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Muledeerhuntingfreak
Well-Known Member
My Browning A bolt 300 wm with my hand loads is good for half inch five shot groups. Son inlaws Remington 700 in 7mag is close to the same with his hand
loads. Factory loads both were around one inch. Find the right bullet and load will help alot.
To further complicate the process with more decisions, you could start accumulating parts for a custom build of your own liking. A piece or 2 at a time over a few years.
At your own pace, if you aren't in a hurry.?
At your own pace, if you aren't in a hurry.?
TLDR
I love all guns just about and Sako, Tikka, Cooper, Bergara, on and on and on…. Are all good in one or many regards.
But I have to say, I have been tickled to death with $800-900 Savage 10, 12 and Remington 700 SPS varmint rifles, in new stocks (quoted price adjusted). Nephew and a buddy have been shooting reloads into sub half MOA groups when tongue held right and all else in our favor. They are better than our ability and typically sub MOA if the trigger nut isn't acting up. Buddy only shoots FGMM, same, sub MOA typically.
Shooter skill has A LOT to do with it. First rifle? By all means get what you want and can afford but remember ammo isn't cheap and dry fire only gets you so far. Live fire, drills, check out PRS/NRL… practice.
Pic: Nephews (23 year old) Savage 10 308 printed these groups. The targets are from proving a new load. 168 gr Hornady HPBT, five each, 100 yards, off of a cheap folding table from the barn and a bipod. One is Fed brass and the other is Black Hills.
I love all guns just about and Sako, Tikka, Cooper, Bergara, on and on and on…. Are all good in one or many regards.
But I have to say, I have been tickled to death with $800-900 Savage 10, 12 and Remington 700 SPS varmint rifles, in new stocks (quoted price adjusted). Nephew and a buddy have been shooting reloads into sub half MOA groups when tongue held right and all else in our favor. They are better than our ability and typically sub MOA if the trigger nut isn't acting up. Buddy only shoots FGMM, same, sub MOA typically.
Shooter skill has A LOT to do with it. First rifle? By all means get what you want and can afford but remember ammo isn't cheap and dry fire only gets you so far. Live fire, drills, check out PRS/NRL… practice.
Pic: Nephews (23 year old) Savage 10 308 printed these groups. The targets are from proving a new load. 168 gr Hornady HPBT, five each, 100 yards, off of a cheap folding table from the barn and a bipod. One is Fed brass and the other is Black Hills.
Attachments
I was just thinking about the .308 Remington TAC and .223 Remington TAC that I bought before I bought my customs. I bought the .20 PPC custom after I made the 100 yard target in my profile pic with the .223 TAC. I never really took the time to develop a load for either rifle. Now I have something else to do.
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You've given yourself a nice budget.
I would try to come in way under budget and invest the balance in reloading equipment and components. The cost of the gun, even if you spend $2K, is nothing compared to shooting the barrel out.
In that vein, I would go Tikka or Savage. For the most part, their stocks suck, so you might look at replacing the stock right off the bat.
My only Tikka is in 204 Ruger. I don't shoot it much so don't have stats on its accuracy. My Brother's LH Hunter is a tack driver consistently shooting sub MOA at 100 using factory ammo.
Had a Savage 110 in 7 Mag that would touch bullets at 100 using Rem Core Lokt, and a Savage 308 FCP-SR that did the same.
Had an older Rem 700 in 300 RUM that I converted into a 7LRM in a chassis, all for less than $2K including the cost of the RUM gun. That one is 1" at 300, but too heavy to hunt with.
I would try to come in way under budget and invest the balance in reloading equipment and components. The cost of the gun, even if you spend $2K, is nothing compared to shooting the barrel out.
In that vein, I would go Tikka or Savage. For the most part, their stocks suck, so you might look at replacing the stock right off the bat.
My only Tikka is in 204 Ruger. I don't shoot it much so don't have stats on its accuracy. My Brother's LH Hunter is a tack driver consistently shooting sub MOA at 100 using factory ammo.
Had a Savage 110 in 7 Mag that would touch bullets at 100 using Rem Core Lokt, and a Savage 308 FCP-SR that did the same.
Had an older Rem 700 in 300 RUM that I converted into a 7LRM in a chassis, all for less than $2K including the cost of the RUM gun. That one is 1" at 300, but too heavy to hunt with.
I experienced the same thing with a Ruger Predator in 6 Creedmoor.
A predator hunting friend of mine had necked down the 6.5 Creedmoor case when it first came out to 6mm and had a rifle built for it. The cartridge quickly became a favorite of his. I decided to follow suit, but first wanted to shoot one to see how I liked the cartridge. Ruger came out with the Predator in 6 Creed so I bought one at the LGS. I ordered the same brand brass and the same 105 grain JLK bullets my friend was using for his predator hunting. I had the powder and primers on hand like he was using. After putting together test loads, I literally "strapped" a tested Leupold 3.5-10x40 scope on the rifle using the old style Weaver rings that fit the rail that came on the rifle and headed to my 100 yard range. I dry fired the rifle a few times and found that my dislike of Savage-style triggers still existed. Pull poundage was good so I bore sighted the rifle and fired a shot. It was on the target so I shot two more times. The three shots measured .181"!! I moved the crosshairs to put a bullet 2" high and fired a shot. It was 2" high so I fired two more shots. Those three measured .239"!! I shot a few more groups and all were in the .2's so I decided to install a Timney trigger in the rifle and go hunting. All shots I have taken with the rifle at deer have been one shot kills at various distances.
The moral of the story is I am still shooting the Ruger and still have not put together a custom 6 Creed. Those Rugers are darn good shooting firearms and after reading your story, my experience and reading about others who have had great luck with them, they sure seem to be worth the modest cost. Besides, I am old and love clip rifles!!
Straight Shooter
Well-Known Member
MM, my story is just about identical to yours but mine was with the 6.5 creedmoor. Have wanted to put it in a nice Boyd's stock but everytime I shoot it I ask myself why I would change anything about the gun.
Oh I agree. I still recommend them. But in the 2 I've had, one shoots. One didn't. Still great rifles. Just trying to be honest.
The Sauer 101has the typical heat/pressed barrel as do all their other models except the 100. The 101 is a very accurate and not too heavy (same for the 100). I have Benelli and Franchi shotguns and love them but not their rifles. I also have a Bergara 6.5 cm Premier Elite that shoots lights out but with scope and bipod is hitting close to 15lbs. If you can find a used Browning A bolt (original or A bolt 2) with a BOSS system in good condition, don't hesitate. The BOSS system is a tuner and works very well. I have 2 and when tuned (easy to do) they shoot 1 hole groups. Stay away from A bolt 3.
Exactly! But, like most who enjoy rifles, tinkering is in our blood. The stock on my 6 Creed was a floppy one and I really didn't care for that. So, I decided to give an aftermarket stock with a metal insert in it. I had been having trouble with getting shells to feed out of the clips and Ruger replaced them. The new ones worked well in the original stock. After putting the barreled action into the new stock, I decided to see if the original clips would feed shells. They did and work flawlessly to this day.....
The_Whitetail_kid
Well-Known Member
Christensen arms are hard to beat. I have 2, one chambered in 7RM and one in 6.5 PRC. Both should great. 1/2inch group on a good day and I'm no crazy accurate shooter. Best group I got was .495 in my 7RM with a 160 AccuBond hand load and The PRC tack drives the 156 Berger's.
Ik just finished working up hand loads for my nephew's Sako S20 in 300WM. It is a very accurate rifle with a soft, easily adjusted trigger and smooth bolt lift and slide. As pointed out, EuroOptic is having a sale on them for around $2k.
