Moose bullets?

[John McLaughlin]

I've used 250 gr Partitions @3050 fps from my 340 Roy to tip over two BC moose. One shot DRT. Both excellent eating. JM

 

[Skimbleshanks]

I think the Bergers would work OK if you stay off the big bones. A good soft point like a game king or partition should work well too. I wouldn't overthink it.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

I'll be heading north soon with a once-in-a-lifetime, non-res, Maine moose tag. This is my bullet of choice, lol

 

[jdavistx]

I probably wouldn't either, BUT I fully expect shots to be under 100 yards. I shoot VLD's out of my .243 and I have noticed about 1/3 of the time anything under 100 yards that bullet is blowing up on impact. 3100fps at the muzzle. Again, hopeful that the rifle wont be used as I really want to use my bow. Just never know...……..

Agree. I have shot several deer with 168 Bergers in my 7mm Rem Mag @ 3,000 fps.. To close and they do blow up, leaving a massive exit hole. Have used on elk as well, they ended up in the far side hide giving up every last ounce of energy. I don't know about moose, but a 180gr Berger, well paced should do the trick.

 

[John McLaughlin]

While I've not used them yet on moose, .375 300 gr Shock Hammers, you might contact Steve @ Hammer Bullets for suggestions for other Hammers in other calibers. He is a straight shooter. JM

 

[Deleted member 115374]

Hi all i have a semi custom 7mm mag it shoots Berger 180g vld hunting bullets very well they are running almost 3000fps or right at it don't remember, but would the 180vld be good on a moose, and elk? Also my wife is applying too but she has better chances because she only wants a cow tag. Anyways she has a 308win and it shoots sierra 150g pro hunters really well with varget would you use these on a cow moose?

Vlds are ok- but a moose has a pretty tough shoulder bone- if you place shots from both rifles behind the shoulder, thru the lungs then it is lethal. If you catch the shoulder too far forward into the heavy bone area then it could potentially be a problem. I prefer a Trophy Bonded Bear Claw on Moose for a couple reasons- one being weight retention after impact with bone and deeper penetration. The other is if your hunting moose it is generally in thick brush, willows, alder etc.. a bonded bullet has performed better for me under these conditions than a Berger Vld. I love the Berger line of bullets and shoot them in many calibers that I reload for but for Moose especially in Grizzly country I load TB Bear Claws. I took them to Africa a couple times as well and they performed flawlessly on Eland, Buffalo and the larger plains game. Shooting them out of 300 win mag 200 gr. as well as a combo of TB Sledgehammers solid version and TB Bear claws soft points that I was able hit same point of impact at 200 yds with 300 gr out of 375 HH.

 

[Deleted member 115374]

One other bullet that I have had really good success/performance with that shoots good groups at 100,200 and 300 yds that has good sectional density and a relatively good B.C. considering its use, is the Swift A Frame

 

[Theringworm]

I used a Nosler 175g LRAB out of a 28 Nosler on my Alaskan moose last year. It was very very effective. Shot was 100yds broadside. The Accubonds simply work.

 

[zr600]

Did your lraccubond exit on that shot?

 

[Theringworm]

No sir, wadded up just under the skin on the opposite shoulder.

 

[BAKPAKR]

One other bullet that I have had really good success/performance with that shoots good groups at 100,200 and 300 yds that has good sectional density and a relatively good B.C. considering its use, is the Swift A Frame

The Swift A Frame isn't a sexy, high ballistic co-efficient bullet but I don't think those are needed for most moose shots. I know I would much rather be shooting an A Frame at a quartering to me bull than any of those sleek, boat tailed cup and core bullets.

 

[dogz]

Shooters love to make this stuff rocket science, I did that in my younger years as well.

The easy button is the oldy but goody Partition. It has it all, has for decades.....end of story

 

[Pa Grizz]

I have shot 3 moose with a 300 RUM. All three were within 50 yards so the bullets were still moving pretty fast. The first two of those were with 200 gr Accubonds. I wasn't too pleased with the results. I am not saying they blew up, but I didn't think I got good penetration. Had my shots been broadside, behind the shoulder, I am sure they would have been fine. Unfortunately, those are not the shots I was presented with.

I used a 200 gr Barnes LRX on the last moose. It went down in its tracks, after a quartering to me shot (same angle as the first shot on RUM moose # 2). I hope to draw another tag to see if that was just a fluke

I don't think you need a 300 RUM for a moose, but I do think you need a bullet that will hold together at closer ranges based on the velocity you are starting it out at.

FYI - 165 gr Nosler Ballistic Tips out of a 300 Winchester wouldn't be my first choice in a do over either. They did blow up.

I have a 300RUM I carry when I guide incase my hunter does not a gun that will not reach 300 yards or better The last three have been with 185 Berger,s two at 500 yards and one at 300 The best bullet for the 300RUM has to be the180 Partition Gold Accuracy is unreal out to 500 meters and performance is great from 100 out to 500

 

[BAKPAKR]

I think the Nosler Partitions are very effective hunting bullets. My dad shot a New Hampshire bull using my 300 RUM and a 180 gr Partition. The bull didn't take a step. Of course, the Idaho bull he shot a few years earlier with his 300 WM and a 180 gr Core-Lokt dropped in its tracks, too. My only gripes with Partition Spitzers are the relatively low ballistic coefficient and nose deformity in the magazine. However, neither matters at the ranges most of my shooting has been.

If I ever draw another moose tag and decide to carry a 30 caliber magnum, I will probably use either a Barnes LRX, a Hammer Hunter, a Nosler Partition, or a Swift A-Frame.