Is something wrong with my rifle?

You're very welcome. Let us know how it turns out. With a little bit of work those cheap Tupperware stocks can shoot fair too. Don't buy into the " have to have a $500 stock to shoot well idea. A few of my guns still wear their flimsy factory stocks and shoot sub 1/2 MOA. The two main things they need are bedding the action and relieving on the fore end. Those flimsy stocks will flex, move, shimmy, warp, and everything else when you shoot so they need a lot of room all the way around the barrel to prevent contact during the shot. Just something to think about before buying a new one. You can bed it yourself after watching some YouTube videos for $20 or less depending on the materials you choose. And some work with some sockets wrapped in sandpaper will float the barrel. Easy, cheap things to try that may make her shoot satisfactory without dropping $.

I will say again. I am not impressed with the Hornaday superformance at all. I've tried it in 3 guns in the last year. The first did shoot it fair, 3/4" at 100. The second 4-5" groups and the third gun 3" groups. Also with this last gun. One of the boxes I'm 10 rounds into with 3 dud rounds already. Struck the primers multiply times. Will not fire.
 
Yes you have a problem somewhere.

You've gotten good advice so far.

If it's not a scope issue or uneven torquing of the action screws/loose action screws try some different ammo.

Pick up a box of HSM or Remington premium in 180gr and see how that shoots.

If you can't get it shooting 2" at 100 with just that I'd take the rifle back (after trying a different scope) to the dealer and have them check it out.

I wouldn't bed it before that just in case it causes some warranty issues.

If you get it shooting half way decently there's a lot you can do to stiffen up a tupperware stock after floating and pillar bedding it properly.

The latter involves cleaning out as much material as you can from the lug to the fore end and then using devcon to epoxy a steel rod in. The fastest way to do that and do a neat job of it is with a router.
 
i don't know what stock the xcr has on it . i don't have an xcr , but it is not an sps $17.50 one. so i guess i am not totally convinced it is the stock . i do not shoot much if any factory ammo. out of my sendero i shot soome of the 180 grain tsx fed ammo, it shot in the ones.
 
I agree with wildrose, check the scope / mounts try some better factory loads an if it doesn't improve take it back. There is something more than flinching etc for how its performing at that range. I bought a new 700 long range tactical in 300 wm last year and it gave me fits. I had to send it to my smith before it would shoot. It was a nightmare. Hope you have better luck.
 
I hate to bring in some possible bad news to this but this SAME problem happened to me a few weeks ago with my 300WSM browning x-bolt. Last year it was shooting federal fusions 1MOA or better. The rifle was hurting my shoulder so I got a brandy new lead sled. It was great at first. After 15 rounds, suddenly my groups were all over the place. Thought maybe my scope mounts came loose so I checked everything. Still shot poorly. Well, threw on an old scope I had and bamn, its shooting good groups again, so the new burris I had must have broke. Sent it back and fortunately burris sent me a new one. Needless to say, I dont know if it was coincidense my scope went bad after I started using the ladsled OR if the leadsled caused the scope to shake more violently and broke something internally but I now simply use the leadsled as a GLORIFIED gun cleaning rest haha. I MAY use the leadsled to sight in less powerful rifles but I DO NOT trust it with higher recoil rifles... the recoil absorption and the shock it may be giving to the scope may be bad. I have read others with similar issues and even some people having cracked stocks after using the leadsled.
 
My one and only Remington was an 2004 "Classic" model chambered in 8x57 Mauser. Beautiful looking gun, but 4 MOA at best. I replaced the trigger with a Shilen and the stock with another from Stockys (a thumbhole) and it was still a 2moa rifle at absolute best.

The barrel was a sporter and it had a Mag-na-port brake fitted to it and that was definitely part of the problem (the barrel). After going round and round, I couldn't justify spending over $600 re barreling it when it basically was a $700 gun that I had already dropped over $300 on with the stock and trigger. By the time I rebarreled I could have bought a Shilen barreled action for the same money, and that is a custom receiver and select match barrel.

So unfortunately, not all rifles are shooters or recoverable from the factory.

PS: I just got my Shilen custom 8x57 prefit barrel a few weeks ago and put together a long action Savage 110 with it, and I shot a 1" group with it on steel at 160 yards, and that was right after bore sighting it and getting the scope dialed in. So I have fulfilled my wish for an accurate 8x57, even if I had to build it myself... I was shooting Yugoslavian sniper ammo from Wideners.
 
My one and only Remington was an 2004 "Classic" model chambered in 8x57 Mauser. Beautiful looking gun, but 4 MOA at best. I replaced the trigger with a Shilen and the stock with another from Stockys (a thumbhole) and it was still a 2moa rifle at absolute best.

The barrel was a sporter and it had a Mag-na-port brake fitted to it and that was definitely part of the problem (the barrel). After going round and round, I couldn't justify spending over $600 re barreling it when it basically was a $700 gun that I had already dropped over $300 on with the stock and trigger. By the time I rebarreled I could have bought a Shilen barreled action for the same money, and that is a custom receiver and select match barrel.

So unfortunately, not all rifles are shooters or recoverable from the factory.

PS: I just got my Shilen custom 8x57 prefit barrel a few weeks ago and put together a long action Savage 110 with it, and I shot a 1" group with it on steel at 160 yards, and that was right after bore sighting it and getting the scope dialed in. So I have fulfilled my wish for an accurate 8x57, even if I had to build it myself... I was shooting Yugoslavian sniper ammo from Wideners.

I can also agree with this. If I am going long range 500+ yards, I would spend the money on a semi/custom to full custom rifle...if I am looking for a decent shooter from factory to shoot 400 to maybe 500 yards id opt for one of the rifles guaranteeing 1MOA such as the Tikkas or Vanguards. I am sure other manufacturers will start to follow this trend with Remington probably being last(they dont need it...people buy their rifle's reguardless). I have read that Tikka does back their rifles. The few people with bad experiences with tikkas (over 1 MOA accuracy sometimes on the order of 4MOA+) tikka helped them out with either fixing their rifle or sending them a new one along with what ammo they test fired it with so the user can try to find similar factory loads with similar results. Just a note though...I just bought a remington mountain SS and that thing shoots 165 grain core lokts at half MOA which was a HUGE surprise to me.
 
I bought a new Savage 308 Model 12 Long Range Precision Varminter a couple years ago, and it refused to shoot better than 2 MOA, and that was with numerous different hand loads. As well, the shoulder of the chamber was imprinting a very defined pattern on my brass. Turned out the reamer used for the chamber was all gummed up and made an uneven chamber. Returned to Savage (Canada) and took them well over a year to put a new barrel on. You may have just gotten a lemon. My brother has an off the shelf Savage Weather Warrior in 30-06 and it shoots sub MOA. I ended up having a 15 in Lilja barrel put on it an making it my short range hunting rifle. Had it bedded and braked as well. Shoots 1/2 MOA now. Bad luck I guess. My Remington 700 XCR with a Bell and Carlson stock shoots about .6 MOA after bedding, braking and a Timney trigger. The 40x trigger sucks and the Timney drops right in. Hope that helps.
 
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