Inconsistent rifle due to recoil/muzzle climb
- Thread starter Dirty45
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Canhunter35
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This is the most probable for a lightweight barrel, especially without a lot of cooling time
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Page 3, post # 30. And no, the bullet is only in the bore long enough for the rifle to start recoiling straight back about 0.15". The muzzle will not have even raised then, unless the barrel is whipping around, which is entirely possible.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
This may be true for a rifle, but my .454 always makes groups higher with 300 grainers over the 260 grainers.
That is in the range for a .280ai. You may need to dial it back to
280 rem velocities, and be satisfied with better case life X 2 and reduced recoil.
Barrelnut
Well-Known Member
CopperCreek loads their 280AI 168 berger loads to 2950 FPS. Just saying...
https://www.coppercreekammo.com/product/280-ackley-improved-168gr-berger-vld-hunting
https://www.coppercreekammo.com/product/280-ackley-improved-168gr-berger-vld-hunting
bigngreen
Well-Known Member
My brother calculated about 3/8th of an inch of recoil before exit, you have to include a LOT more in your calculation than bullet weight!!
A huge amount of accuracy happens in that first in barrel recoil!!
Bag set up, rifles interaction with the bag during recoil and bipod preload and how the rifle moves on the bipod in that in barrel recoil all make a huge difference.
If your pumpkin is weighing the stock down on the back your butt will drop down the amount of slope over 3/8 of movement, that's huge on a sporter stock, this translates into pitching shots high!
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Makes sense. When shooting off bags, I tend to try to put as little interaction on my weapon as possible, and try to let the first 1/2" of recoil be "free-recoil" before it hits the muscle in my shoulder to stop it. I barely even put my shooting hand on the grip and use just the last finger pad on my index finger to touch the trigger shoe (basically, I shoot everything as close to BR style as possible) when sighting in and shooting for groups. I try to use as many of these disciples as possible when hunting, but I tend to hold the rifle a bit tighter.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
I once had a great idea. I had a 10/22 that did five shots in 5/8" @ 50 yards. I installed some porch steps sandpaper on the forend. My thought was the sandpaper would hold the rifle solid and cut the groups to 1/4". The benchrest crowd already knows what happened. The groups went to 3"!
I will say it again, bed the stock and barrel from the recoil lug to the tip of the fore end. I will lay better than even money your groups come down to something you will be very happy with. Cheap fix and worth a try before getting radical on it.
When you bed it, tie a 3-5 LB weight to your front swivel hole with mono filament and leave it on there while the bedding dries. It will ensure a perfect tight fit that will never move around.
How is the rifle supported in your scenario with the forend weighted pulling down? If bedding the forearm, it seems the weight would create space, essentially free floating the barrel an unknown amount of taper. It sounded like you did not want the barrel free floated, a technique used in many applications.
My guys secure the rifle by the barrel with the whole works
horizontal while the bedding dries. Barrel has a quality release tape of "x" layers to create the specified free float gap.
Please clarify for me. I do no mean to imply one way is right or wrong. Your technique may be an improvement from what I am familiar with and I would like to understand how to improve.
The rifle sits horizontal in a vice or rest that supports the action and butt. All support must stop at the front of the mag well. The action is set into the stock, with the weight already in place on the forearm, and tightened down with the action screws. This pulls the action and barrel into the bedding compound. All there is on the barrel is the release agent, I use Carnuba wax, two coats both polished out to a shine.
The idea behind the weight is to have the barrel bedded tight to the epoxy but when done and weight removed you end up with three to five pounds of upward pressure on the stock forearm to ensure it remains tightly bonded to the barrel. There is no free float in this method, if anything you get a little upward pressure. This also helps offset any weight applied by a Bi-pod. The whole idea is to stiffen the stock and remove the barrel whip.
The idea behind the weight is to have the barrel bedded tight to the epoxy but when done and weight removed you end up with three to five pounds of upward pressure on the stock forearm to ensure it remains tightly bonded to the barrel. There is no free float in this method, if anything you get a little upward pressure. This also helps offset any weight applied by a Bi-pod. The whole idea is to stiffen the stock and remove the barrel whip.
