• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

In the Ear? Really???

Hey Packer of Rats. I heard mention of you attempting to restore an old BB gun or somethin. I'm going to refinish the Webby with Ceracote on the metal stuff and dip graphics on the fiberglass stuff. What's a good way to strip the metal stuff?

John, what's the existing finish? Blued? Parkerized, etc. How far are you going to strip it down? If you take all the innards out it is way easier and comes out nicer without having to mask off a bunch of items.

Anyway, the main thing is to get rid of all the oil and grease and any other contaminants. Once all the extraneous items are off the rifle, I de-grease with no VOC sprayed Brake Fluid, then take it in the kitchen with a stiff brush and and hot water and Dawn dish washing liquid, wash and scrub it down at least 3 times, sometimes more, because most of the rifles I work on are OLD! Before you do the final scrub, put on a pair of Nitrile disposable gloves so you don't leave fingerprints or other body oils on the clean metal. do not use the PVC gloves as some chemicals you may be using will melt them. You cannot get it too clean! Before removing it from the sink I turn the water on full hot and run the water over it for a few minutes so that the heated metal evaporates the water almost immediately once you take it out. If you want to de-blue it, almost all of the de-bluing agents work well, but I use the Rustoleum Rust remover Gel and 0000 steel wool with another pair of disposable gloves. Before using the steel wool use Acetone or the Brake fluid to get the oil out of the steel wool they use to keep it from rusting. that way you don't recontaminate the rifle with oil. This also takes care of any rust. Just follow the instructions for Iron and steel on the bottle! Rinse and scrub very good again, hot water it again, and let it dry.

Then follow the Manuf. directions EXACTLY. Not familiar with Ceracote, but have used Dura-coat on a rifle that was deemed un-salvageable any other way without a major overhaul and deep grinding. Was just gong to be a wall hanger for a guy I knew and we made it unable to shoot. Came out pretty, but non-functional.

When I say what I work on is old, I mean old! Here is a 1912 Argentine Mauser I did a while back after reworking the bolt and the stock. it was a straight bolt to start with. In 1961, the rifle was converted to 7.62x51 NATO, or .308 American. Shortly thereafter, they upgraded their arms to the equivalent of the U.S. M-14 and sold these for about $35.00.

IMG_0286 (1).JPG IMG_0287.JPG IMG_0289.JPG IMG_0290.JPG
Since I took every piece down to white metal, it was easy to bring back to almost original. This Rifle has the smoothest action of any rifle I have ever shot! Probably from wear, but it is accurate and a funny thing, the sights ramp up to 2000 Meters.

Other people have other methods, but this works for me, so it's what i do! But then again, I think the newest rifle I have worked on in the last 8 -10 years was a 1956 Win. Model 12, 12 Gauge! A new or more valuable gun, I would take to someone qualified to work on it.

Ignore the desk, i was emptying a cabinet when I put the rifle in the rest to take the pictures.

Good luck, and hope this helped!
41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg

Pack
 
Thank you for taking the time to write that up. Do you do the major degrease and sanitation before removing the finish?
I'm going to guess that the finish is parkerised based on the scratches on the top of the barrel. They are wide and fairly long and have the same appearance that scraped off paint would have.
Are you sure you have a desk? I didn't see one in the pictures.
 
Do you do the major degrease and sanitation before removing the finish?
I'm going to guess that the finish is parkerised based on the scratches on the top of the barrel. They are wide and fairly long and have the same appearance that scraped off paint would have.

John, i would go online and find out how to remove a parkerized finish or you can just take some fine grit (500 grit) sandpaper and blend the scratches in and Cerakote over the top of it, I guess. There are people on here that do this professionally and they may have a better answer for you. Remember that I'm usually in the process of taking it down to white, bare, metal for re-bluing. You may not need to do this.

Just a note on re-blue, if you've done all the nasty work for them and the rifle is just parts, the professional gunsmiths only charge me about $65.00 to re-blue the rifle if I decide it justifies the expense. I also reassemble the rifle myself. Normal re-blue in Tucson runs about $250.00 when they have to disassemble, clean and put it back together. Otherwise I use a modified cold blue that involves heating the metal up to about 150 degrees.

As far as as the sequence, it can be done either way, I just find that usually the bluing removal seems to come off easier and cleaner if the oil is gone.

There are some people on here, that probably think I am crazy for my process, but that's OK, it works on the stuff I do! Have fun!

BTW, there IS a work desk under there, it is just covered with stuff out of the cabinet!
41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg
 
Last edited:
As a side note, I will often use a Dremel moto tool and the Small Stainless wire brushes when cleaning the receiver innards and parts before de-bluing or re-bluing. Cleans them up pretty fast! Dirty job though!
41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg

Pack
 
I hope there's pitchers. Sum of them words can be cunfuzin.

John, i am severely disappointed in the fact that you have only been posting with us for about a Month and a half and already you are starting to sound like djones! Not only that, but starting to spell like him too! You started out posting concise words, with the correct spelling, and now you sound like his brother!

I wonder what happened to Don Parsons way up North. Last we heard from him, he was eating the wildcats that were hunting rabbits! He said the snow was up to the teats on a tall giraffe. I live in Tucson for a reason! One experience of -26 degree weather was enough for me. This winter we had one day where it dropped under 32 for about an hour and everyone here ran out and bought out all the parka's and mukluks in the stores. Why people choose to live up where it gets cold enough to freeze the nuts off of a steel bridge, is beyond my comprehension. No thanks!

Already wrote the book, took it to a publisher and the whole publishers staff had to be cordoned off in a "safe" room! I thought it would make a nice "Coffee table" book but one oversensitive young male even had to be sent out for therapy! I haven't shot any hogs lately, but have melted a whole bunch of snowflakes! Guess that's a win!
djones and Big hog.jpg
And I even used the glossy paper to make it appear more attractive!

Oh well!
41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg

From now on, all my commercial writing is going to Uncle John's Bathroom Reader! They pay better than djones and Long Range Hunting, and have a captive audience!
 
Last edited:
State of Arizona Legislature,
Today has been set aside as National Packrat Day! And what better way to celebrate than visit our newest exhibit, Packrat Playhouse - wwww.desertmuseum.org /packrat playhouse).

It is so great when a State organization takes notice of you and gives you your own special day! Not that I am undeserving, but to even have a playhouse dedicated to your achievements!

Almost humbling!
41149-a432c823d5071b98b3691a8c1814bc84.jpg
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top