How to deprime live primers?

I've deprived many live primers in a press without any issues. I've also fired them in my gun and then deprimed them. With that said you should always be very cautious with primers. Safety glasses and no powered or live primers in the area is good common sense. Even though you could reuse them after removing them I don't think it is worth saving a few cents considering all the other costs and time involved in loading ammunition.
 
I just recently deprimed a bunch of live SR primers with my decapping die. Wore safety glasses and went slow and smooth. None detonated, but even if one did I dont think it would have been a big deal.

I would advise against doing it with your sizing die however, because there would be nowhere for the pressure to escape if one did go off.
As mentioned in a previous post, if one did detonate in an FL die, the pressure going to down. So, don't have anything below to trap the pressure or be standing in front of the ram when trying it.
 
I use press, but if you have concern, shoot the primer off in gun then deprime. That being said, why are you depriming your live primer, just change your load and reuse it. Rarely need to remove Live ones unless I mistakenly used LR and wanted Mag. I fixed that issue by always using mag primers
 
what is the best commercial deprimer tool to use after bullet and powder removed. Most I've seen state use for deadprimers. Is there a tool for safe live primer removal?
Use your Collett neck sizing die or a full links sizing die if you're a reloader you know this be very careful and ease the live primary back out
 
Used presses, pin punches, and of course, the Lee decapper. Had two pop--in a inertia (hammer) bullet puller in the summer of 2012; smoked up the primer catcher, jacked the blood pressure, and nearly had the infamous "clothing fail." I don't know anyone else who've had that happen. I got a Frankford Arsenal deprimer when they first came out and that's what I use whenever... And that is very seldom.
 
Salvaged hundreds over the years. Never had one go off while depriming and they have all fired when reused. They go in a separate flat marked "used"....use them for foulers, load development and practice (hunting loads get "new ones").
I use a press, safety glasses, ear protection and go slow.
Remember when primers were less than .50 cents a flat at $4 to more than $5 now they are not "cheap".
Not to get off topic but have a question. I see you stated that you reuse primers fit load development. Are you finding great difference in performance once loaded with "new primers"

To the OP I've only deprimed brass in two scenarios: fired or misfired....the latter gets its pill pulled, powder poured out and primer temporary deactivated by filling brass with H2O for 20 min or so. Pour off H2O then deprimed as per usual ( universal decapping die by RCBS ). All misfired primers are placed in a soup can half filled with H2O.
 
Not to get off topic but have a question. I see you stated that you reuse primers fit load development. Are you finding great difference in performance once loaded with "new primers"

To the OP I've only deprimed brass in two scenarios: fired or misfired....the latter gets its pill pulled, powder poured out and primer temporary deactivated by filling brass with H2O for 20 min or so. Pour off H2O then deprimed as per usual ( universal decapping die by RCBS ). All misfired primers are placed in a soup can half filled with H2O.
Haven't noticed any discernable difference however I never use them in my actual hunting rounds because there is always that chance that a failure might happen at the moment of truth.
 
It is my understanding that oil (wd40 etc ) will inert the primer material. You are going to clean the case anyway, why take a chance.
 
One thing might really be concerning is flash holes that are not near center. I've seen crazy off center flash holes that would put the decapping pin on a anvil leg. This would not be good.
Something to think about.
 
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