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There are certainly more reliable tools which have magnets that lock the level into the right spot and hold it there while you make your adjustements to the scope.
It just makes the math easier.
That's still the only tool most people will have in the field and why you should double check your level before pulling the trigger.
If your POI is shifting you need to figure out what is wrong with your scope or mounts.
The cross hairs can be level against a plumb bob or what ever you use and the scope may not track vertically that is why the tall target test. the scope manufacturer may not be able to get it right. Ive never had a Nightorce miss a tall target test. http://appliedballisticsllc.com/Articles/TallTarget.pdfI understand principle of setting the cross hairs to a level line at 100 yards (increasing the distance for setting the crosshairs) instead of the 50 feet that I am presently using. I do not have a Picatinny rail, the rings (Talley) are attached to a round receiver; round top Ruger 77. Presently when the rings are installed onto the rifle, I take the top of the split rings off, I "then" place the level off of the rings to get the rifle level, and "then" clamp the rifle in a Tipton vise to keep the rings/rifle level. Once the rifle is level, I level the crosshairs to a level line that I placed on the wall 50 feet away. If I use this process, only setting the crosshairs level with a plumb line at 100 yards, the scope ought to be mounted properly? The scope is a Leupold and there isn't a whole lot of bearing surface on the top of the scope cap or the internal turret, that is why I have not been leveling the scope referencing from the scope cap itself. Once the crosshairs are leveled to the axis of the rifle out to 100 yards and still clamped in the Tipton vise, "then" the cant scope ring is attached to the scope tube, and then leveled. I get what you have written in your post about doing trying to do everything possible to reduce your error, that too is what I am trying to accomplish. I do not know if I'll ever be taking an 800 yards shot, however I would like to ensure that my rifle is capable of making the shot if it presents itself. With all else in place I now have to work on the nut behind the trigger! Thank you for everyone's responses.
Doesn't matter if you are holding or dialing a rifle that is canted will send the bullet in the directing of the cant. The longer the shot the more off the bullet will be.
Agreed 100%. I worded my response poorly. My comment was in response to them not bothering to look at the bubble level. If the rifle was level to reticle from get go, and they dial up then they should have good impact even if rifle is a bit "canted" during shot. Now if you're canted and trust a holdover, you're going to have major windage and elevation issues. At least that's what my brain is thinking.
Ambush method works really well for a range mover in a controlled environment. I have my own mover system and I usually work on tracking. It's more difficult to do but has a more direct application to hunting
For sure. There is more than one way to skin it. Ambush = get out in front, know your lead edge hold and send it, Tracking, get your MPH or time of flight hold on where you want the bullet keep the rifle moving with the target and send it. Then there is trackbushing, follow the target pop out in front of it stop the rifle and send it. All of them have an application. Close range or alert game = tracking, longer shots game un witting = ambush, longer shots with clutter or obstacle = trackbushing
Great so we speak the same language and probably learned them from the same places. But back to the subject; can you do you look at a bubble level at the same time? With precision focus on top of it all. Because I can't.
