Hornady ELD-X Official Thread

brandrin said:
it may seem crazy but im trying to get to 1 MOA at a grand... i dont think thats ever going to happen with the way things have been going.... i'm just out of time! i need to get a load worked by next weekend and im switching bullets.... i guess there is always that few hours after work everyday...
Click to expand...

I don't think that's crazy at all. It's doable, just have to find the right load. All the other rifles I own and have been around have never been as finicky as my .300 Winchester. I know the cartridge is accurate and I know this rifle is capable of sub MOA but I just have to find the right bullet that works for me and the rifle.


I understand your situation, between work and school I have hardly any time and when I do get time it seems I'm always busy with something else. Honestly, if you can settle with shooting under 500-600 yards in your hunting spot, look into a traditional hunting bullet. They may not have the superior ballistics like the ELDs, but a 180gr SST or a 200gr Sierra GameKing would probably shoot well. The Hornady SSTs and Sierra GameKings are not as picky from my experience and they both are good bullets.


I'm in the same boat as you but I have a couple months of time left. If I don't get this .300 figured out I'm just going to go back to the old .270 Winchester. I had a great load with 208gr AMAXs but I have like 40 left and I don't want to settle for a bullet that is discontinued. I don't know what makes the 208gr ELD Match bullets so inaccurate in my rifle. I know Hornady changed the design of it slighting from the 208 AMAX but whatever they changed doesn't work in my rifle.

I hope you get it figured out soon buddy. If you need any help let me know or post on this thread.
 
brandrin said:
all,

I just spent about 2 hours reading a lot of this forum in the hopes of seeing some recipes that would work for me. I've had moderate luck @ 1 MOA @ 100 yards but no consistency.
I am a total rookie to reloading. started this spring with the purchase of a 300 RUM. the cost of factory ammo @ $80/box was the driving factor. I'm reloading for $26/box.

Learning to reload on a 300 RUM has been interesting. also reloading 10mm.

Equipment:
rem 700 Long Range Stainless steel 26", 1-10" barrel, Terminator 2 muzzle brake
vortex viper hs-t 6-24x50
tally one piece rings
RCBS rock chucker supreme
neck size only die
200gr ELDX
Retumbo and H1000
CCI 250 primers
norma brass
all shooting from sand bags on a solid bench @ approx. 3,000'

I started out playing with powder charge only, retumbo, COL 3.600- i started at 90 gr and went up .5gr at a time looking for signs of pressure to get my max load. i went all the way to 95gr before i saw ejector pin marks. hornady max 93.6gr, nosler max 91.5gr, richard lee max 95.5gr. who do you trust?

I played with that for about 75 rounds getting nothing good only to find out my scope was moving... tally rings need to be lapped in! lapped the rings in, and i actually put down some form-a-gasket in the rings since i didnt have any sticky tape i hear some people use. scope hasnt moved since.

so starting all over with the recipe now... dam rings.... played with powder charge some more splitting the 1gr jumps into .5gr jumps all retumbo 90-95gr. i had some groups that put 2 @ .25" but the third would fly to 1-2" off the group.... second shot everytime. i never let my barrel get too hot so id spend 1 hour to shoot 12-16 shots @ 3 shots per recipe. Bought a trigger pull gauge, factory pull was 4.25lbs.... tore the gun down and adjusted the trigger down to 2.5lbs.

got tired of that not working and buried my head into reloading books and forums and found out i needed to find my lands and my jump. bought the COL gauge and modified case and found out these remingtons have super long throats... my lands are at 3.781" with the 200gr eld-x. no they are waaay too long to fit my mag well... guess i have a single shot rifle now... found out that i can get the first one in the mag with the tip reaching out into the loading ramp so 1 +1 now... i can live with that. it seemed crazy to redo my head spacing or modify my receiver and mag well to accommodate the longer loads. i really started logging all my variables now.

so i stared playing with seating depth. went with 3.770", 3.750", 3.730", and 3.710" 4 of each 91gr retumbo. this was done on some old brass i got from a friend. case says RP on it.
3.710"[email protected]" [email protected]"- one flyer
3.730"[email protected]" [email protected]"- one flyer
3.750"[email protected]" [email protected]"-gun hated that length
3.770"[email protected]" [email protected]"-sounds promising but not good enough

my buddy loves H1000 so i guess ill do the exact same test as above with that.
3.710"[email protected]" [email protected]"-one flyer
3.730"[email protected]" [email protected]"-gun hated that length
3.750"[email protected]" [email protected]"-one flyer... thought i had something there
3.770"[email protected]"[email protected]"-gun hated that length too....

so im heading into the backcountry on an elk hunt in two weeks at this point so i need to pick one and test powder charge! so i go out this morning, only change in variables is i changed from RP brass to Norma brass and its been hot all summer and this morning was 37F. powder temps were still room temp since they were in the house/truck unless they cooled down in the 45min to shoot 15 shots. i cleaned the barrel also after about 80 shots. i loaded up some fouling rounds with IMR7828SSC and sent 3 of those downrange before i started this test. i was gonna use that powder when i couldnt find retumbo or H1000 last spring...

so the exact load above, my choice of the best load ive seen, that shot 1.0" (91gr retumbo 3.710") was my choice for this years hunting season shoots groups below.
i finally borrowed a chrono just to see.
3.710"91gr [email protected]" [email protected]"2940-3050fps- what the hell? it shot 1.0" last week!
3.710" 92gr [email protected]" [email protected]" 3068-3119fps
3.710" 93gr [email protected]" [email protected]" 3187-3212fps


i cant be playing with a rifle that is so picky that temperature and brass will change from 1.0" 4 shot groups one week to 4.0" 4 shot groups the next....

i'm pretty much ready to put it away, grab the trusty old .270, get some shots in and take that into the backcountry next week... im out of time for this year...

any information for a rookie struggling with this would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Brandon
Click to expand...
Is your rifle properly bedded and barrel free floated?

Are your trigger guard screws torqued properly?
 
update!

i shot 5 different seat depths today @110 yards with the 212's and 89gr retumbo my lands are 3.864".
3.760(ES-.001) (3015-3035fps)-3@5"
3.780(ES-.002) (3004-3051fps)-3@3"
3.800(ES-.002) (2997-3024fps)[email protected]"
3.820(ES-.001) (2991-3014fps)-3@2"
3.840(ES-.002) (2994-3052fps)-3@2"-

so i guess the 212's like that .060" jump. another feller on here said that worked for him too.

i'm gonna load some more of those up and move my point of impact since that changed from the 200gr to the 212gr and try some 300 yard groups and then off into the backcountry in a week! assuming they continue to group up....

@wild rose
the gun is factory aluminum bedded and floated. trigger guard screws are "hand torqued". does that make much of a difference??? i borrowed a torque wrench to do the scope mounts but never put much thought into the stock mounting bolts....

here is the page for the gun im shooting. only this is i got it in stainless. its not listed on the website but they made them for sportmans warehouse only.
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-long-range
 
brandrin said:
update!

i shot 5 different seat depths today @110 yards with the 212's and 89gr retumbo my lands are 3.864".
3.760(ES-.001) (3015-3035fps)-3@5"
3.780(ES-.002) (3004-3051fps)-3@3"
3.800(ES-.002) (2997-3024fps)[email protected]"
3.820(ES-.001) (2991-3014fps)-3@2"
3.840(ES-.002) (2994-3052fps)-3@2"-

so i guess the 212's like that .060" jump. another feller on here said that worked for him too.

i'm gonna load some more of those up and move my point of impact since that changed from the 200gr to the 212gr and try some 300 yard groups and then off into the backcountry in a week! assuming they continue to group up....

@wild rose
the gun is factory aluminum bedded and floated. trigger guard screws are "hand torqued". does that make much of a difference??? i borrowed a torque wrench to do the scope mounts but never put much thought into the stock mounting bolts....

here is the page for the gun im shooting. only this is i got it in stainless. its not listed on the website but they made them for sportmans warehouse only.
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-long-range
Click to expand...
In spite of the fact I need another rifle like a catfish needs a box of hand grenades Im looking at a very similar rifle, the 5R Mil Spec in 260 Rem.

Yes the torque is very important, if they are not torqued evenly it can cause your action to bind. Id start with 35 in/lbs.

Whatever bedding they did at the factory is generally crap (never seen one bedded right from the factory except on the high end CZs.

If it were me, Id get some JB Weld, or Devcon steel putty, remove completely whatever bedding compound they used Usually some kind of soft plastic like hot glue which is worthless. Dig it all out and replace it with good stuff.

I will mark a point under where the loaded bullet tip is farthest forward and build a little clay dam. using a dremel or drill if that's all you have rough it up good from that point back to back of the lug recess.

I do the same along the edges and all the way back to the rear tang.

You can use modeling clay to keep the compound from getting into places that it would cause you problems.

Make sure you use enough release compound, I prefer the Brownells spray on type. When youre sure you have it right, do it a couple of more times.

Any place on the stock you want the bedding compound to stick it needs to be roughed up very good and drilling lots of shallow holes and/or lateral cuts with a dremel cutting wheel are preferred.

Once you are ready drop it in and slowly work it into place. I like to use a thin piece of tape to cover the screw holes just in case. On that note you also need to be sure that you use release agent on the trigger guard as well
To help with less mess its a really good idea to use masking tape along the top edges of the stock so that the expoxy as it works out has a place to go.

Tighten up your trigger guard screws as easly and evenly as you can until you just have them snugged up.

After about 5-10 minutes back the screws off about a half turn. Most epoxies will expand a bit as they are setting so if you did all this right it should have you perfectly well bedded when its done.

After about a half hour or hour I like to get out the exacto/scalpel and start carefully removing the excess. The masking tape make this a breeze. just run the scalpel along between the rifle and the stock and then just peel off the tape slowly. This makes cleanup about a simple and easy as possible.

Let it set overnight in a warm room or closet that you can keep extra warm simply running a 1000 watt light bulb for the duration.

When done, pull it back apart, remove the modeling clay and be sure you get all of the little stray chunks of bedding compound you can find.

When thats done, borrow that torque wrench again and working each alternately so you are tightening evenly crank it down to about 35 in/lbs and that should have you about right.

Its a very good idea to check the torque on them frequently as in every time you take the rifle out to shoot and periodically at the range if you're shooting lots of rounds.

Over time you'll get a feel for just how often it needs to be done.

You will never have consistency nor accuracy if the action is in a bind and/or moving around.

This is why the first thing I do with a new rifle is bed it before I ever fire a shot through it. It will save you all kinds of frustration and wasted time and ammo doing it this way because sooner or later you'll come to the decision it needs to be done.

As for the bullets, these arent Bergers and as such I would not expect them to do well jammed into the lands with any caliber. The exception of course is that if you start having a problem with throat erosion loading them longer gives you a way to cheat a bit and run the barrel longer without its accuracy going completely to hell.

Hope that helps.
 
brandrin said:
update!

i shot 5 different seat depths today @110 yards with the 212's and 89gr retumbo my lands are 3.864".
3.760(ES-.001) (3015-3035fps)-3@5"
3.780(ES-.002) (3004-3051fps)-3@3"
3.800(ES-.002) (2997-3024fps)[email protected]"
3.820(ES-.001) (2991-3014fps)-3@2"
3.840(ES-.002) (2994-3052fps)-3@2"-

so i guess the 212's like that .060" jump. another feller on here said that worked for him too.

i'm gonna load some more of those up and move my point of impact since that changed from the 200gr to the 212gr and try some 300 yard groups and then off into the backcountry in a week! assuming they continue to group up....

@wild rose
the gun is factory aluminum bedded and floated. trigger guard screws are "hand torqued". does that make much of a difference??? i borrowed a torque wrench to do the scope mounts but never put much thought into the stock mounting bolts....

here is the page for the gun im shooting. only this is i got it in stainless. its not listed on the website but they made them for sportmans warehouse only.
https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-long-range
Click to expand...
In spite of the fact I need another rifle like a catfish needs a box of hand grenades Im looking at a very similar rifle, the 5R Mil Spec in 260 Rem.

Yes the torque is very important, if they are not torqued evenly it can cause your action to bind. Id start with 35 in/lbs.

Whatever bedding they did at the factory is generally crap (never seen one bedded right from the factory except on the high end CZs.

If it were me, Id get some JB Weld, or Devcon steel putty, remove completely whatever bedding compound they used Usually some kind of soft plastic like hot glue which is worthless. Dig it all out and replace it with good stuff.

I will mark a point under where the loaded bullet tip is farthest forward and build a little clay dam. using a dremel or drill if that's all you have rough it up good from that point back to back of the lug recess.

I do the same along the edges and all the way back to the rear tang.

You can use modeling clay to keep the compound from getting into places that it would cause you problems.

Make sure you use enough release compound, I prefer the Brownells spray on type. When youre sure you have it right, do it a couple of more times.

Any place on the stock you want the bedding compound to stick it needs to be roughed up very good and drilling lots of shallow holes and/or lateral cuts with a dremel cutting wheel are preferred.

Once you are ready drop it in and slowly work it into place. I like to use a thin piece of tape to cover the screw holes just in case. On that note you also need to be sure that you use release agent on the trigger guard as well
To help with less mess its a really good idea to use masking tape along the top edges of the stock so that the epoxy as it works out has a place to go.

Tighten up your trigger guard screws as easily and evenly as you can until you just have them snugged up.

After about 5-10 minutes back the screws off about a half turn. Most epoxies will expand a bit as they are setting so if you did all this right it should have you perfectly well bedded when its done.

After about a half hour or hour I like to get out the exacto/scalpel and start carefully removing the excess. The masking tape make this a breeze. just run the scalpel along between the rifle and the stock and then just peel off the tape slowly. This makes cleanup about a simple and easy as possible.

Let it set overnight in a warm room or closet that you can keep extra warm simply running a 1000 watt light bulb for the duration.

When done, pull it back apart, remove the modeling clay and be sure you get all of the little stray chunks of bedding compound you can find.

When thats done, borrow that torque wrench again and working each alternately so you are tightening evenly crank it down to about 35 in/lbs and that should have you about right.

Its a very good idea to check the torque on them frequently as in every time you take the rifle out to shoot and periodically at the range if you're shooting lots of rounds.

Over time you'll get a feel for just how often it needs to be done.

You will never have consistency nor accuracy if the action is in a bind and/or moving around.

This is why the first thing I do with a new rifle is bed it before I ever fire a shot through it. It will save you all kinds of frustration and wasted time and ammo doing it this way because sooner or later you'll come to the decision it needs to be done.

As for the bullets, these aren't Bergers and as such I would not expect them to do well jammed into the lands with any caliber. The exception of course is that if you start having a problem with throat erosion loading them longer gives you a way to cheat a bit and run the barrel longer without its accuracy going completely to hell.

Hope that helps.
 
Well I tried to get some terminal performance data this weekend but I guess the aoudad moved off somewhere else for the time being. I did send some of the 143's out to 600 checking my drops. They fly pretty well from what I was seeing.
 
TXAoudadKlr said:
Well I tried to get some terminal performance data this weekend but I guess the aoudad moved off somewhere else for the time being. I did send some of the 143's out to 600 checking my drops. They fly pretty well from what I was seeing.
Click to expand...
I end up drooling just a bit every time you mention the aoudad. Hopefully one day they will be overrunning you and youll need some help with them.:)gun)

Ive just about talked myself into what I think would be the Ideal sheep gun.

Ruger has a special precision custom shop rifle they did in conjuction with FTW Ranch (long range shooting school) and Im looking real seriously at one in .260. Im also giving the same consideration to the Remington 5R long range package in .260 as well.

Having shot it quite a bit from my LR-260 AR Ive really come to love that little round and so has my wife.

Had her out shooting rocks in my neighbors field last year and didnt even bother telling her what ranges they were at. I just doped the scope for her and let her rip. Out to 650yds she only missed one shot at 400 and she jerked that one pretty hard.

What a great caliber for old men/women, kids, and young girls who have any interest at all in longrange shooting.
 
@wildrose

thats great info on how to bed a stock! i copied it down for later. but this Remington with this bell and carlson stock is fully aluminum bedded so no plastic crap to remove! it's pretty much good to go really... unless i machine material away so i can bed it with your instructions later....

here is a link to the stock if you are not familiar with them.

https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1088
 
brandrin said:
@wildrose

thats great info on how to bed a stock! i copied it down for later. but this Remington with this bell and carlson stock is fully aluminum bedded so no plastic crap to remove! it's pretty much good to go really... unless i machine material away so i can bed it with your instructions later....

here is a link to the stock if you are not familiar with them.

https://www.bellandcarlson.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=1088
Click to expand...
I know exactly what they are, dont buy their hype.

There are subtle eccentricities in everything that is machined. As long as it is within spec when the inspectors check it (if they do so at all) its, good to go.

This goes for both your action and the stock so its just physically impossible to have a perfect fit from the factory. If it was bedded at the factory they used something very similar to hot glue which is crap.

On top of that the bedding block is not the only point of contact for your action.

If it were me, Id definitely bed it and at a minimum I would bed the recoil lug and the length of one loaded cartridge in front of it.

Even the slightest bit of movement or unequal pressure between the stock and action/barrel is going to cause you accuracy problems until it is corrected.

There are some decent videos on how to bed a rifle on Youtube so give them a look, youll see in some of them they are bedding stocks that like yours comes with the aluminum bedding block.
 
I went back 50 or so pages and don't see any info regarding R26, a 7mm Rem mag and the 175 eldx

Has anyone used this combo? Looking for a starting off point.

Rem 700 custom 1-9twist benchmark 26" barrel
 
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