• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

First Focal Plane Vs. Second Focal Plane

That illustration is meant to show reticle-target relationship... nothing more. The fact that the target doesn't "seem" as big is merely coincidence. It has not been my experience that targets are smaller at X magnification in FFP vs SFP. Same is same... so long as the magnifications being reported are actual magnifications.

If you have a 16x that doesn't show the same size as another 16x... then either one of the optics isn't "really" on 16x, or your diopter setting is off.
 
PEEWEE69, It seems like some of us expect to use our scopes as we do our spotting scopes or Binoculars ( I DO ) in the respect it magnifies what we want to see???, But others want to magnify the cross hairs and the Target???,

I have found that more often than not that the cross hairs get in the way so to get Finer placement I crank up the zoom so I can bring in the target and view the shot placement,

IE, Heres a crude example,

1) hang a shirt on the shed at a 100yds with a scope set at 2.5x now your crosshairs completely cover the buttons so if you wanted to shoot the buttons off it ( YOU CANT because you cant see them )

2) Now crank it up to 10x or what ever the mildot reading is set at, Now you can see them because the target is now bigger and the buttons are not hideing behind the crosshairs
this is where SFP comes in to its own also you get to pick where the sht go's because the crosshair is not masking the spot where you want to hit the target,

John
 
PEEWEE69, It seems like some of us expect to use our scopes as we do our spotting scopes or Binoculars ( I DO ) in the respect it magnifies what we want to see???, But others want to magnify the cross hairs and the Target???,

I have found that more often than not that the cross hairs get in the way so to get Finer placement I crank up the zoom so I can bring in the target and view the shot placement,

IE, Heres a crude example,

1) hang a shirt on the shed at a 100yds with a scope set at 2.5x now your crosshairs completely cover the buttons so if you wanted to shoot the buttons off it ( YOU CANT because you cant see them )

2) Now crank it up to 10x or what ever the mildot reading is set at, Now you can see them because the target is now bigger and the buttons are not hideing behind the crosshairs
this is where SFP comes in to its own also you get to pick where the sht go's because the crosshair is not masking the spot where you want to hit the target,

John
You must not be following thread,the reticle varies from manufacture.My cross hair that is open in middle cover zero.They all vary, even in same brand.Bench shooter use fine or floating dot and hunters heavier.But it is personal preferance.Doesnt matter if ffp or sfp.matters spec on cross hair.
 
You must not be following thread,the reticle varies from manufacture.My cross hair that is open in middle cover zero.They all vary, even in same brand.Bench shooter use fine or floating dot and hunters heavier.But it is personal preferance.Doesnt matter if ffp or sfp.matters spec on cross hair.


Yes I am following it and the open centre type was mentioned but I was under the impression that we were talking about fine crosshairs and MilDot Types, Seeing as they were the scopes in the pictures and the drawings,
but then theres the rarer types like the german number 1 mk4 which is just a single post which are the best of both worlds without ranging possibilities

But hey, I could be wrong

Sorry sp6x6, I was talking about what PEEWEE and the other guys Said not in reply to what was going on page 23,
But sure, I'd like to hear about open centred scope if the rest of the folks dont mind,
 
Last edited:
For those that think FFP may fit their need for their style of hunting, this info may be helpful as there has been a lot of bad or exaggerated info given in this thread.

FFP scopes are not all 2-3k, far from it. You can get top end durability, repeatability and plenty good glass starting at around $600.

SWFA's SS line makes a great starter FFP for $600. It is a 3-9x42 with excellent glass, turrets, and durability. It offers plenty of power for shots on almost all critters out to 1000 yards and anyone will be able to determine if they like the FFP concept with this beauty of a scope. And they hold their resale well. In fact SWFA has a great used scope trade in program if needed. They also have a 5-20 that is top notch and have a mid level zoom coming out soon.

Bushnell's tactical series, which includes a couple generations of HDMR, some of the LRS, and the new XRS series, are all FFP scopes and have what I consider to be one of the best reticles on the market. Their G2 reticle is simply fantastic. One of the best features in my mind is the varying thickness of the center crosshair vs the rest of the reticle. The center crosshair, the part that would be used for the real LR work, is very thin, .03 MIL or .1MOA which is thinner than most SFP reticles including NF's MOAR and is even getting close to the holy grail of ELR shooters, the NPR1. The rest of the reticle however is thicker which aids in shooting on lower powers or in dark timbered areas. The reviews have been through the roof on these scopes in terms of turret repeatability, overall durability, glass and features. There is a range from 3-12 to 4-30 so a guy can get about anything he wants. The 3-12, a nice starter FFP scope runs about $8-900 again with plenty of power for most LR shots.

There are a number of others models/manf. as well and manufacturers are coming out with new FFP models all the time, which makes me think there is an actual demand for them, but hey maybe I am wrong. :D

In my mind the truth on this topic is clear, in part because I have used both FFP and SFP extensively and still have a number of both styles and because if guys hung in and filtered out all of the bravado and testosterone, this thread shows it as well. For most big game hunters that are moving into the LR game, which is a large % of guys on this site, an FFP scope makes a lot of sense. Is it mandatory, no not at all but the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks for this group of hunters IMO. For LR shooters like myself, who love LR shooting but aren't married to it to the extent that they are going to pass-up a shot at an animal just becuase it is too close, but still want to be proficient at LR (say 8-1000 yards or so) FFP makes a heck of a lot of sense, especially if you like being able to get off quick shots by using holdover which I really like. And lets be honest, that is probably 95% of LR hunters in general and even here on LRH where there is a lot more dedication to the sport it is still likely 85-90% of shooters. Again is it necessary, no but the advantages outweigh the negatives for this kind of shooter in my mind. For those that will only dial for elevation and wind for every shot, then FFP isn't as important. For those pure LR hunters and ELR hunters, the SFP advantages, or FFP disadvantages, will likely outweigh the advantage FFP offers. But the new reticles and features are even making that a tougher sell for guys like me that prefer FFP for my general purpose shooting and hunting. And for the record I have never shot a tactical match ever. What must be wrong with me! :rolleyes:

One other issue that was hit on a couple times but really not fleshed out as well as I would have liked is the benefit of holding for wind vs dialing. Again shooting style will dictate this to some extent. But I tried the dial wind thing and hated it for the way I hunt. First I want to be able to get off my shot as quickly as I can and still complete a clean well executed shot. Dialing for x amount of wind then waiting for that exact condition to return so I could shoot was painful, cost me a couple nice trophies, and lowered my confidence because if I knew I needed to shoot but the wind wasn't exactly back to when I took the reading then I was too focused on that and didn't execute my shot as well as I should have. Yes I am sure I could get used to it and I know a lot of guys do but I really like the concept of being able to dial elevation, calculate wind extremes and the holds that correlate and then use my experience reading conditions to hold for wind. I believe it to be a more accurate way of shooting in the varying winds I deal with. FFP is far superior to this style of wind compensation, again for my style of hunting.

I guess my encouragement to guys reading this in order to determine what direction they should go is to sit down and really evaluate how you are going to hunt, what style you prefer or are best at, what expectations you have, and what exactly you want to accomplish. That may take some time out shooting for you to get a good enough feel for different styles, etc. before you can make that decision. Then look at the individual advantages and choose what is going to work best for YOU. Not what I say or the majority says or what the poster with the highest post count or highest number of big game kills says. But what works for YOU after a good thorough analysis of what you need/want in a shooting system.

This thread made me chuckle many times. If I didn't know better I would have thought that we were deciding on which arm to cut off and how each would most drastically affect our shooting. It is just a scope guys and personal preference, style, and likes actually do come into play.

I think we need to move away from this diseased concept of "I think differently than you do so YOU suck!" If we were all the same life would be pretty boring.

Scot E.
 
Last edited:
I really like the concept of being able to dial elevation, calculate wind extremes and the holds that correlate and then use my experience reading conditions to hold for wind. I believe it to be a more accurate way of shooting in the varying winds I deal with. FFP is far superior to this style of wind compensation, again for my style of hunting.

Scot E.

Scot - can you explain how a FFP scope is 'far superior to this style of wind compensation' than a SFP would be? For example, if my NPR1 is dialed out fully at 22x, and I've dialed up my elevation, how would using the windage marks in my reticle be so inferior in this situation?

I'm not trying to question your judgement or anything, just honestly trying to find out what I might be missing out on. I generally don't dial wind either and seem to follow the same pattern you do. Dial elevation, figure out what the wind is doing and what those holds would need to be, and hold accordingly.
 
For those that think FFP may fit their need for their style of hunting, this info may be helpful as there has been a lot of bad info given in this thread.

FFP scopes are not all 2-3k, far from it. You can get top end durability, repeatability and plenty good glass starting at around $600.

SWFA's SS line makes a great starter FFP for $600. It is a 3-9x42 with excellent glass, turrets, and durability. It offers plenty of power for shots on almost all critters out to 1000 yards and anyone will be able to determine if they like the FFP concept with this beauty of a scope. And they hold their resale well. In fact SWFA has a great used scope trade in program if needed. They also have a 5-20 that is top notch and have a mid level zoom coming out soon.

Bushnells tactical series, which includes a couple generations of HDMR, some of the LRS, and the new XRS series, are all FFP scopes and have what I consider to be one of the best reticles on the market. Their G2 reticle is simply fantastic. One of the best features in my mind is the varying thickness of the center crosshair vs the rest of the reticle. The center crosshair, the part that would be used for the real LR work, is very thin, .03 MIL or .1MOA which is thinner than most SFP reticles including NF's MOAR and is even getting close to the holy grail of ELR shooters, the NPR1. The rest of the reticle however is thicker which aids in shooting on lower powers or in dark timbered areas. The reviews have been through the roof on these scopes in terms of turret repeatability, overall durability, glass and features. There is a range from 3-12 to 4-30 so a guy can get about anything he wants. The 3-12, a nice starter FFP scope runs about $8-900 again with plenty of power for most LR shots.

There are a number of others models/manf. as well and manufacturers are coming out with new FFP models all the time, which makes me think there is an actual demand for them, but hey maybe I am wrong. :D

In my mind the truth on this topic is clear, in part because I have used both FFP and SFP extensively and still have a number of both styles and because if guys hung in and filtered out all of the bravado and testosterone, this thread shows it as well. For most big game hunters that are moving into the LR game, which is a large % of guys on this site, an FFP scope makes a lot of sense. Is it mandatory, no not at all but the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks for this group of hunters IMO. For LR shooters like myself, who love LR shooting but aren't married to it to the extent that they are going to pass-up a shot at an animal just becuase it is too close, but still want to be proficient at LR (say 8-1000 yards or so) FFP makes a heck of a lot of sense, especially if you like being able to get off quick shots by using holdover which I really like. And lets be honest, that is probably 95% of LR hunters in general and even here on LRH where there is a lot more dedication to the sport it is still likely 85-90% of shooters. Again is it necessary, no but the advantages outweigh the negatives for this kind of shooter in my mind. For those that will only dial for elevation and wind for every shot, then FFP isn't as important. For those pure LR hunters and ELR hunters, the SFP advantages, or FFP disadvantages, will likely outweigh the advantage FFP offers. But the new reticles and features are even making that a tougher sell for guys like me that prefer FFP for my general purpose shooting and hunting. And for the record I have never shot a tactical match ever. What must be wrong with me! :rolleyes:

One other issue that was hit on a couple times but really not fleshed out as well as I would have liked is the benefit of holding for wind vs dialing. Again shooting style will dictate this to some extent. But I tried the dial wind thing and hated it for the way I hunt. First I want to be able to get off my shot as quickly as I can and still complete a clean well executed shot. Dialing for x amount of wind then waiting for that exact condition to return so I could shoot was painful, cost me a couple nice trophies, and lowered my confidence because if I knew I needed to shoot but the wind wasn't exactly back to when I took the reading then I was too focused on that and didn't execute my shot as well as I should have. Yes I am sure I could get used to it and I know a lot of guys do but I really like the concept of being able to dial elevation, calculate wind extremes and the holds that correlate and then use my experience reading conditions to hold for wind. I believe it to be a more accurate way of shooting in the varying winds I deal with. FFP is far superior to this style of wind compensation, again for my style of hunting.

I guess my encouragement to guys reading this in order to determine what direction they should go is to sit down and really evaluate how you are going to hunt, what style you prefer or are best at, what expectations you have, and what exactly you want to accomplish. That may take some time out shooting for you to get a good enough feel for different styles, etc. before you can make that decision. Then look at the individual advantages and choose what is going to work best for YOU. Not what I say or the majority says or what the poster with the highest post count or highest number of big game kills says. But what works for YOU after a good thorough analysis of what you need/want in a shooting system.

This thread made me chuckle many times. If I didn't know better I would have thought that we were deciding on which arm to cut off and how each would most drastically affect our shooting. It is just a scope guys and personal preference, style, and likes actually do come into play.

I think we need to move away from this diseased concept of "I think differently than you do so YOU suck!" If we were all the same life would be pretty boring.

Scot E.


That hit a Bullseye.
 
Theres some good points there scot, I guess we all are guilty of cutting corners by using little tricks that we have learned or picked up,
when really we are just avoiding using the scope the correct way and by either failing to learn or use those methods As used by the military,

When I first tried to learn to do it right it never made sence way back then, As for me I like the Idea of FFP scopes thats why I ordered one Two weeks back but thats the straight mildot type mainly because I dont like busy reticles,
But thats a personal thing not a Fault in a scopes design, and your right about the cost and quality that is available, you can buy some of the best scopes ever made for under $1000,

I dont think any scope has ever affected my speed of placing the shot in the right place weather its day or night, for a while it was my own bad habits that held me back

john
 
This thread made me chuckle many times. If I didn't know better I would have thought that we were deciding on which arm to cut off and how each would most drastically affect our shooting. It is just a scope guys and personal preference, style, and likes actually do come into play.
Not just an arm, some of these optics ask for the leg also. Pretty good thoughts all the way through Scot.
I've been going through the reticles available in FFP, and really have not found one I like.
The Leupold TMR is what I'm currently using and like. Is there a reticle in FFP that is open in the center.
 
Scot - can you explain how a FFP scope is 'far superior to this style of wind compensation' than a SFP would be? For example, if my NPR1 is dialed out fully at 22x, and I've dialed up my elevation, how would using the windage marks in my reticle be so inferior in this situation?

I'm not trying to question your judgement or anything, just honestly trying to find out what I might be missing out on. I generally don't dial wind either and seem to follow the same pattern you do. Dial elevation, figure out what the wind is doing and what those holds would need to be, and hold accordingly.

Hey Blackdog,

As a clarifier, I stated "far superior for my style of hunting/shooting." I wasn't necessarily stating it is for everyone's style. Like I mentioned I like to be able to take quick shots if needed and I will shoot an animal I like from zero to 1000 yards. I hold for wind and elevation out as far as my gun/scope combo and the game I am shooting will allow. I will dial distance and hold wind beyond that. So within those parameters not having to worry about what power I am on and having the same subtentions regardless of power is a huge benefit. That is where the far superior comment came from.

In your specific example there would be no advantage to FFP, except that FFP's are cooler! :D Just Playin!

Scot E.
 
Not just an arm, some of these optics ask for the leg also. Pretty good thoughts all the way through Scot.
I've been going through the reticles available in FFP, and really have not found one I like.
The Leupold TMR is what I'm currently using and like. Is there a reticle in FFP that is open in the center.
Vortex makes a couple that are open center, a very nice touch for an FFP reticle IMO.

Scot E.
 
Interesting things I am reading. Seems some FFP users admittedly prefer a tapered crosshair that directs their eye to the finer aim point at the cross, and also like a reticle with an open center. But yet they also tell of how they prefer to hold off for wind rather than dial and use the center where these center reticle features reside.


Also, it should be said that just because you dial for an average wind does not in any way mean you need to "wait for the same wind" to fire. I have taken many spotter calls with a left or right hold after dialing in for the average wind. In fact this was used a lot in the advanced Long Range course at Defensive Edge.

Jeff
 
Bros, I have seen the same Reticle design's in SFP Scopes as those here in the FFP pictures, So surely with all those windage and eleivation marks, they would both be able to do the same as what some are calling Quick Shots,

I agree that the concept of FFP is a cool idea, But apart from Target and crosshair staying as a matched size to eachother then there is no other real issue/benifit here, Which means this all goes back to the first comments by you and Orkan, that the bottom line is IT's all about personal choice

As I have said before regarding the price, since these things have been on sale all that has happend is that another $1000 plus has been added on to the price because its something new and alot of it Is people wanting to be the first in the club to Own/Have one and with some it's because they are trying to get better at shooting, I have seen both examples at differant gun clubs,

I've seen guys who were fairly resonable shots spend over $1200 on a .22 getting work done on it and fitting a 6-$700 Leupold scope on it and yet someone with a $150 Rifle and a $65 scope win the shoot,
My point is an Aston Martin is not going to turn anyone in to James Bond,
And no mater what you spend is not going to help, its like other people have said here already, IT's what you prefer and how you put your particular skills/scope to work.

john
 
Interesting things I am reading. Seems some FFP users admittedly prefer a tapered crosshair that directs their eye to the finer aim point at the cross, and also like a reticle with an open center. But yet they also tell of how they prefer to hold off for wind rather than dial and use the center where these center reticle features reside.


Also, it should be said that just because you dial for an average wind does not in any way mean you need to "wait for the same wind" to fire. I have taken many spotter calls with a left or right hold after dialing in for the average wind. In fact this was used a lot in the advanced Long Range course at Defensive Edge.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

For me its not about preferring a reticle that directs my eye to the finer center. It is about their work in trying to balance the positives and negatives of a shooting system that I like. The truth is there is no free lunch in anything. When you gain a few features you like there will almost always be something you have to give up. It is not different with scopes. Like you have stated many times one of the positives for SFP is thin reticle subtentions for LR precision aiming. By design this is easier to accomplish in SFP compared to FFP. What I like about the G2 or the concept of a small open center is that it is an attempt to add one of the features most liked by SFP users into an FFP scope. Thus they are trying to come up with a "best of both worlds concept".

This is similar to USO and other manfs that are trying to use dual plane reticles to accomplish the best of both. Again for me it is all about finding something that fits with my style of shooting and the further the FFP scopes get toward adding some of the beneficial qualities of SFP, the happier I will be because I prefer the FFP concept in general. Now they aren't ever going to make the perfect blend for some guys. For instance I know you also like the fact that SFP scopes increase the target size in relation to the reticle. Well by optical design FFP will never be able to do that part but they can work on the reticle thickness part and I think they have done a nice job with it. At the end of the day guys still get to choose what feature set is best for them.

Regarding using the reticle for holdover. IMO, That is why the reticle is so great, for my style of shooting. If you are shooting at the longer distances you can use the thinner center cross hair for finer aiming. The thinner center cross of the G2 reticle extends 1 mil out which covers the majority of my holds. But even the thicker part of the reticle is .05 Mil or .17 MOA so it isn't too thick to perfectly center punch the vitals of any big game animal I hunt. But for closer shots the holdover concept is fine too because you don't need as fine of an aim point. My bigger point in bringing up the "thin center" concept in the G2 was for guys that like to dial for elevation and for wind for their LR shots but have been thinking they may want to try using the reticle for holdover for the closer range stuff and like the FFP concept, well this would be about the ideal scope to tryout.

Like I mentioned, I realize there are "way-arounds" for dialing wind. I just didn't like it. I am sure I could have got used to it but found something that works better for me. Who knows, if I ever get into the ELR game maybe I will even find it necessary to change but for my style now I wouldn't change anything. I am comfortable and deadly! :D

Scot E.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 12 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top