It's better to be able to put the magnification wherever you need it to be for the shot.Fair enough point, but I've always been able to turn to the calibrated magnification in plenty of time if I didn't know the math off the top of my head.
It's better to be able to put the magnification wherever you need it to be for the shot.Fair enough point, but I've always been able to turn to the calibrated magnification in plenty of time if I didn't know the math off the top of my head.
Yeah I have a 1-7" Colt barrel I'm thinking of installing on one of my uppers. Or a fast twist 22-250 just for cheap long range work.KISS is legit. I think once a person gets to a certain point the white noise is no longer an issue and you just get it done. Training is difficult these day unless sponsored. I have a switch barrel set up now and swap to a 223 fast twist and run 88's out to 1000 with it. Such an excellent training cartridge and cheap. I only put 2000 down range this year but it was quality shooing imho. Lots of positional training and working on fundamentals.
Now that's a better answer! And easier!Fair enough point, but I've always been able to turn to the calibrated magnification in plenty of time if I didn't know the math off the top of my head.
its literally that simple!! seriously!!!! .. !!I'm not very experienced shooting in wind, but I think it would be pretty easy to just use the inches that strelok tells you, up to maybe about 12" or whatever you're comfortable with. Beyond that, I think you should take some more time to prepare for the shot, either make sure your scope is at 12x or 24x (keep the math simple with either 1/2 value or full value hashes) and use a MOA hold with the hash marks, or take your windage cap off and dial the wind.
Cant ur scope 1/8" off plumb from the center of the bore, for right handed shooters only, should eliminate spin drift dialing, or like Brentm said, be one to two clicks left and forget about it tooDang it why didn't I think of that lol. I'm stealing it and claiming it was my idea!
wouldn't you reduce reticle increments by half as well? . When you decrease magnification your reticle increments grow in value.You can also set the scope on 1/2 the "calobrated" power setting and then double the reticle increments.
You can also set the scope on 1/2 the "calobrated" power setting and then double the reticle increments.
To make this easy for you I'd keep using "inch" holds for windage since that is what you do. That's for 2nd focal plane and to make it easier I'd think of body lengths in inches, or whatever target in inches. For first focal plane then you could use whatever value (mils or moa) for holdoffs. For my scopes with caps I just take off the caps if I'm dialing or leave them on if I'm using the reticle. In the old days I've even used a duplex reticle in this manner.It's my first year shooting past 300 yards and I'm loving it!!
My buddy lent me a Zeiss V4 6-24. I really like the scope! But it's SFP.
Any tips for doing wind holds when I'm not at 24x? Do I just use the inch holds that Strelok says vs the moa hold?
I got excited shooting at a speed goat and forgot the whole second focal plane. I used the right wind hold on my scope but I'd backed off to about 16x. Clean miss and a good learning experience.
Thanks