Diminishing returns on reloading dies

[SavageHunter11]

Another vote for Redding dies. I'll also recommend a Two Die Full Length Set over a 3 die set.

why not the three die set? i was reading on another post here a few weeks ago and the general consensus I got was get the 3 die set or you're wasting your time.

 

[YZ-80]

In the RCBS competition dies, you need to take the little pin out that holds the bullet in the window. This is what is creating the .006" of runout. With the little pin removed these dies will generally load ammo with less than .001" of runout on well prepped cases.

The little pin is held in place under an o-ring in the bottom sliding collet. Take the die apart, pop the o-ring out of the collet and the pin falls out. Put the o-ring back on and load.

That's weird. I just pulled mine apart and no "O" ring or pin in the bottom sliding collet. Very strange. Perhaps these parts are only included in larger calibers?

 

[Rick Richard]

That's weird. I just pulled mine apart and no "O" ring or pin in the bottom sliding collet. Very strange. Perhaps these parts are only included in larger calibers?

I have not disassembled mine, but I can see an Oring on the OD of the sliding sleeve. It is dies for 6.5X47L

 

[dougduey]

My gunsmith is the "S" in the Redding S Dies, so I've slowly changed over to them. I mainly had Forester dies and really liked them. Once I was educated on how the S type dies work, it made sense to make the switch for some of my different cartridges

 

[yoteslayer]

Redding very good dies

 

[YZ-80]

why not the three die set? i was reading on another post here a few weeks ago and the general consensus I got was get the 3 die set or you're wasting your time.

The 3 die set includes a neck sizing die, which some folks might use, but it seems that most hand loaders are moving away from neck sizing. I recommend the Type S bushing die (2 die set) which includes the micrometer seating die (you will love it).
I had no experience with bushing dies before I got my first set for my 6.5 Lapua. A couple Youtube videos later, I was happily producing precise loads with minimal run-out and never looked back. You may not need the titanium nitride bushings either. The standard ones (at about 1/2 the price) may be just fine. At the end of the day it may be a bit more expensive to go this route but I think it will be worth it. Best, YZ-80

 

[SealT5]

there are countless debates on this subject. So I won't beat that horse. Google Erik cortina.

With the three die set you'll have no control over neck tension. Redding will not custom hone them.

Purchase the Type S FL competition set with the appropriate bushing for .002"-.003" neck tension. Bump your shoulders .002" and go from there.

That's my long answer. My short answer is because there is no reason not FL size but there are several reasons to avoid neck sizing

why not the three die set? i was reading on another post here a few weeks ago and the general consensus I got was get the 3 die set or you're wasting your time.

 

[Deviant]

My barreled action in 280A.I. should be arriving soon and I've been starting to plan out my load development. Been trying to decide how much money to spend on my reloading dies. At what price point do you start to get diminishing returns on your reloading dies? I was looking at a 3 die Redding set (Master Hunter series I think?) for about $120-$130 but i don't know enough about reloading equipment to know if this is the best way to spend my money for reloading dies. Any help, advice, or guidance would be appreciated. Thank you.

I have 3 sets of the master hunter dies and I have had good luck with them.

 

[SavageHunter11]

The 3 die set includes a neck sizing die, which some folks might use, but it seems that most hand loaders are moving away from neck sizing. I recommend the Type S bushing die (2 die set) which includes the micrometer seating die (you will love it).
I had no experience with bushing dies before I got my first set for my 6.5 Lapua. A couple Youtube videos later, I was happily producing precise loads with minimal run-out and never looked back. You may not need the titanium nitride bushings either. The standard ones (at about 1/2 the price) may be just fine. At the end of the day it may be a bit more expensive to go this route but I think it will be worth it. Best, YZ-80

can you (or anyone else) explain what the difference between bushing and non-bushing dies? I feel like I am missing something crucial

 

[SealT5]

Non bushing dies are just like your rifle chamber. The neck is a fixed dimension. The expander ball can adjust your tension but it's not very consistent.

A bushing die uses little bushing that come in different sizes that vary by .001". Brass can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as well as lot to lot. Bushings allow to to customize you neck tension to you specific rifle and components. Most guys run .002" neck tension. For example my 6.5x47L has a loaded neck demension of .290" so I use a .288" bushing.

 

[SavageHunter11]

Non bushing dies are just like your rifle chamber. The neck is a fixed dimension. The expander ball can adjust your tension but it's not very consistent.

View attachment 124436

A bushing die uses little bushing that come in different sizes that vary by .001". Brass can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer as well as lot to lot. Bushings allow to to customize you neck tension to you specific rifle and components. Most guys run .002" neck tension. For example my 6.5x47L has a loaded neck dimension of .290" so I use a .288" bushing.
View attachment 124437

Thank you for the information!

 

[jebel]

Think of it in terms of the amount of work done to the neck. Working the metal induces hardness, which eventually causes brittleness and failure.

A non-bushing die does this:
1) On the downstroke, push the neck in beyond the desired point.
2) On the upstroke, pulls an expander ball through the neck, pushing it out to the desired point.

A bushing die with the expander ball removed does this:
1) on the downstroke, push the neck in to the desired point. Done. Less work on the neck.

It takes a bit of work to identify the exact desired point. The goal is to shape the neck to around .001-.003" smaller than the diameter of the bullet. This is termed neck tension because it's the tension gripping the bullet when you squeeze it in there. Because different brands/lots of brass differ in their neck thickness, you must measure this to set the die to size right.

The bushings are the sizers. They come in different increments to size the neck just right.

 

[elf]

I have a lot of Redding dies, and like them.

But my favorite is Harrels sizer with a Wilson seater. Send Harrel 3 fired cases and $85. In 10 days you will have a bushing die that is mated to your chamber.
http://harrellsprec.com/index.php/categories/reloading-dies

Also.have your smith cut a blank Wlison seater die with same reamer he used to chamber the barrel, and now you have a perfect combination.

 

[FEENIX]

Over the years, I have owned Redding, Whidden, RCBS, Hornady, Forster, Lee, and Lyman dyes. My personal preference in terms of "bang for the buck", and go-to for the past several years have been the Redding "S" dyes.

Another vote for the Redding S series dies. All of my dies have Hornady sure-loc lock rings.