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Brand new rifle with ZERO copper fouling?

Kevin, It is OK to scrub your bore forward and then backwards--IF you are always careful to guide the well-centered brush back through the muzzle crown. Never get in a hurry and just pull the brush backwards past the crown. You don't ever want the rod or any attachment to nick the crown as you pass back through. If you feed the brush back into the muzzle, you will not do any damage to the crown. It takes longer but if a rifle shoots good, the crown must be protected. Unscrewing every attachment before pulling the rod back through gets old pretty quick. I would rather just use my left hand to carefully feed the attachment safely past the muzzle crown. If you Flitz Polish your bore, cleaning will be quicker, easier and less frequent.

Well good news! I clean the barrel with Barnes cr-10 and got one little spot of blue on one patch. So hopefully this means it's going to be a shooter. Thanks everyone for the advice.
One more question though. The directions for the Barnes cr-10 say to run a nylon brush back and forth through the bore. I was always taught to only go breech to muzzle. Is it ok to go back and forth with a nylon brush?

Kevin
 
If you guys really want to see which copper remover works best.

Fill shot glasses with each cleaner weight a solid copper bullet and drop one in each. Check it after a hour then 4 then 8 then 12. Brush and Clean it each time and weigh. The one that removes the most cooper wins

That is how I decided which copper remover to use. I was very suprised how poorly some did. All the ones with ammonium in them worked about the same (sweets, butchs etc). They were effective but not the best.

Still waiting...................................... Which is it ??
 
So do you guys finish your cleaning regiment with light oil through the bore every time or just when the gun won't be shot for a while?
I've heard of people doing it both ways.

Kevin
 
After getting out all the fouling and patches are coming out clean, I run a patch of KROIL through it a couple of passes and then a couple passes with a dry patch. Look down the bore and everything should be clean and shiny. If the bore has been Flitzed before shooting it will look like a mirror on the inside of the bore, as though it were a chrome finished shotgun bore.
 
Kevin: Thought you might enjoy seeing what the Beech stock Sauer 100 looks like. I still cannot find anything about this new rifle that I don't love. I like the balance, pointability and feel of the checkering and the palm swell. Bolt is smooth and the safety I really like better than any other on any of my other rifles. The trigger falls squarely into the best adjustable trigger ever category (yes, better than Tikka).
DI39kenh.jpg
 
Kevin: Thought you might enjoy seeing what the Beech stock Sauer 100 looks like. I still cannot find anything about this new rifle that I don't love. I like the balance, pointability and feel of the checkering and the palm swell. Bolt is smooth and the safety I really like better than any other on any of my other rifles. The trigger falls squarely into the best adjustable trigger ever category (yes, better than Tikka).
DI39kenh.jpg
Yeah my synthetic stock looks like the same ergonomics. I really like the palm swell and the trigger is excellent in my opinion. One thing I'm going to change is the forend shape. It won't let you put a bipod on it. The legs hit the barrel. I'm going to build it up with some epoxy putty. I'll be shooting it some more this weekend.

Kevin
 
If you guys really want to see which copper remover works best. Fill shot glasses with each cleaner weight a solid copper bullet and drop one in each. Check it after a hour then 4 then 8 then 12. Brush and Clean it each time and weigh. The one that removes the most cooper wins. That is how I decided which copper remover to use. I was very surprised how poorly some did. All the ones with ammonium in them worked about the same (sweets, butchs etc). They were effective but not the best.
I'll be the third person to ask you to share your findings. Which one was "the best"? It saves us all doing what you already did, right? Thanks!
 
I'm about to order up some Bore Tech cleaners to give them a try after using Butch's Bore Shine and Sweets for many years. I figured I'd always use their Carbon Remover with every cleaning, is that enough to remove copper fouling too? If not I'd use their CU-2 to take care of the copper? Hmmmm, so if I'm using two cleaners, which one gets used first?
 
I have a big bottle of Butch's Bore Shine that I use only if I know the bore isn't very streaked, like if I only fired a few rounds. My bottle of Sweets usually just sits there since I started using Barnes CR-10. I don't need to dissolve copper bullets in cups labeled with all the solvents to know that Barnes is quicker. You can spend the whole day cleaning with Butch's or you can get it cleaner in less than 40 minutes with Barnes. Barnes and Kroil and dry patch. Then I'm done.

I'm about to order up some Bore Tech cleaners to give them a try after using Butch's Bore Shine and Sweets for many years. I figured I'd always use their Carbon Remover with every cleaning, is that enough to remove copper fouling too? If not I'd use their CU-2 to take care of the copper? Hmmmm, so if I'm using two cleaners, which one gets used first?
 
OK, I went right to the source and emailed Bore Tech with those questions. "Eliminator" will take care of both carbon and copper. For badly fouled bores, use C4 for the carbon and CU+2 for copper fouling. Start with C4 first, then CU+2. Don't use a bronze brush with the copper cleaners, it will destroy them, use nylon brushes. Same with brass Jags, otherwise you'll always get some "blue" on patches. I've seen with Butch's, once I've opened the bottle, it begins to thicken and darken in color after a short while, less effective I've always wondered? I asked that question on shelf life for the Bore Tech products once the bottle's seal was broken. Good for 3+ years was their reply.
Knowing that, I'll order up the big bottles.
Cheers!
 
So I made it to the range today and was pretty happy with the results. About 43 degrees and very gusty wind at my back.
Hornady 147eldm match ammo was .59" 3 shot group 100 yards at 2793fps.
140gr sst handloads:
57gr Retumbo .35" 2779fps
58gr Magnum.45" 2720fps
54gr RL26 1.00" 2782fps
All new brass.
These are mild loads as I'm just breaking in the barrel. Only about 40 rounds so far.
I have to say this gun has the nicest trigger I have shot.
Wacked a small rock (4-5") several times at 400 yards. Hit every time.

Kevin
 
So Tim-W, you tested the bore cleaners, but didn't tell us which one you liked best. Please save us the time and money and tell us what you use after extensive testing.

Well I sort of did by my first post. Then I indicated how in my second post. I know it was not as clear as saying I tested all of these and this is what worked. But I recomended 3 and then mentioned the testing if people want to find out for themselves.

I will see if I can dig up the photos I took during testing as it was yrs ago. I actually added in the bore tech products on a recommendation a few yrs ago by a member here.

I took shot glasses filled with each solvent then weighed solid copper turned gs custom bullets. They were 80gr HV .270s meant for 6.8 spc.

I then used a lab scale (a mistake) good to 0.005gr accuracy 0.0001 resolution and a (total PITA to setup properly and unneeded for this.) I pulled each bullet washed it in distilled water, pat dry, and weighed it. I did this for different time intervals up to 24 hrs. 1, 3, 6, 12, 24

The best ones were:
* KG-12 Big Bore Copper Remover

* Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover

The one that surprised me the most as it was super popular at the time was WipeOut foaming bore cleaner. It did very little to the bullet. I added the foam and kept adding it as it was turning to a non-foamed liquid till the glass was full first so it had even more time to act on the copper. I think it works by dislodging (unsticking/lifting) the copper specks than actually dissolving them.

The cleaners with heavy ammonium content like Butches, Sweets, home brews were next groups which showed significant and quick effect and etching of the copper.(discolor pitting weight loss etc) But with any ammonium based cleaner you have to be careful of bore etching. You should not leave it in the bore for extended periods etc. And the noxious vapors are toxic. They also did not etch/dissolve copper as well as the top 2.

The top three are very close IMO within the possible error rate.

The benefit of the Bore Tech is the color indicator of copper is much easier to see than KG-12. I have used all three but started with KG-12 so I would have to conclude the possiblity of a small personal bias whether factual or not.

Do not use bronze brushes as any of the above will dissolve the copper content and will indicate copper in the bore on a patch. Nylon brushes is all that's needed and do not think since its softer it can not cause bore wear from aggressive brushing.i

I do know KG-1 Carbon Remover is one of the very best carbon removers, at least as of a few yrs ago. I know others have found this to be true as well. The thing is KG Products does very little in marketing compared to many of the popular cleaners lines. KG1 and 12 are the only two of their line I use.

But no matter what you choose to clean with IMHO any gun room worth its salt must have the smell of HOPPES #9 infused. It has to be the most recognized smell next to the sweet metallic smell of burn gunpowder. LOL I found mixing #9 and STP Oil Treatment 1:1 makes a good case lube as well.

If your gonna pay for gun lub and grease vs using syn motor oil and syn bearing grease like Mobil 1 I have found Slip2k EWL for oil and XF-7 for grease to work the best. I am almost certain Slip 2k EWG (grease) is the same product copy as XF-7. XF7 was on the market long before originally md labs so I tend to stick with it but whatever is easiest to get I guess. IMO that oil grease combo is the very best in AR gas gun mantainance and for storage and use on the bolt and raceways for bolt actions depending on enviornment.

I like to research and test products. I like the tech side of things so I tend to run various tests in my free time. It can start to add up in time and cost unless you wait and see if you can get demo supply from all the manf.

BTW Bore Tech Eliminator also did well and if a all in one product was needed would be the choice. I had added it before but it worked slightly less aggressive to kg12 and bt cu+2. As would be expected the more specific the better it should work
 
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