Copper fouling

[stonehands1]

No. Also using a nylon brush.

 

[EFR]

1. I used the Tubbs Final Finish on a horrendous Winchester 70 coyote lite (270 wsm). It didn't cure it, but it helped a lot. I would recommend trying it.

2. I have started using HBN as well. I have nothing to compare it to; I started using it with a new Bartlein barrel (300 RUM). I am getting zero copper fouling, super easy to clean, but I have only shot HBN coated slugs in this barrel so I don't know what it would be like without.

For the money and time, I'd recommend both.

Best of luck.

 

[Mateo]

So how do you know when your barrel is clean? By that I mean all copper fouling has been removed. I use Bore tech or Sweets to remove copper on my stainless barrels and on my 6mmAI I have ran 50 or more patches (with brushing in between) down the barrel several times and still get blue patches. It's a custom barrel gun that I bought used. Talked to a barrel maker and he said that if patches are blue then it still has copper in it. I clean barrel every 5-10 shots and it still is blue. I bet I've ran 300 patches down the barrel and still haven't been able to get it cleaned.
Am I missing something? Any advice would be appreciated.

I struggled with this for a time. I had an old shot out R700 in 270 win that copper fouled something terrible. I had a high ammonia copper remover that would eventually clean all the copper out, but it took dozens of patches and scrubbing with a nylon brush. I got some foaming Wipeout and that's what finally worked for me. Still took a couple patches, but that's a huge improvement. I use the accelerant. I'm now almost exclusively using the wipeout stuff. Use the foam and the liquid. It's easy on barrels. The less I have to stick a rod down my barrels the better I feel.

 

[stonehands1]

Thanks Mateo. I'll try the wipe out.

 

[elkaholic]

I recently ran a test on some popular solvents. I placed some of my copper jackets in the various solvents for about 30 hours and then visually observed them and actually weighed each. KG 12 was the most effective with Bore Tech second. Solvents such as the old original Hoppes were virtually useless for removing copper but are still good for carbon. Obviously Sweets was NOT used because half of the barrel would have been missing as well as the copper if it was left in that long I hope this helps....Rich

 

[Garycrow]

I too understand the copper equilibrium but theres a clear difference in the copper filling in minute pores in the barrel and outright copper fouling lol. I honestly cant stand the sight of copper in my barrel.

Most factory barrels will copper foul pretty badly because they're rough. They're cheaply made and don't have the finish of a good custom barrel. Most good custom barrels will copper foul very little to none at all. A factory remington barrel is going to copper foul, that's just the nature of the beast. If you want one that doesn't then you're going to have to replace it with a good barrel.

 

[ZeeRo7]

I have definitely considered this. And what you say is true. Im still a huge fan of the 700. I will be picking up another one in the coming weeks. My rifle has shot well since ive had it. I also been shooting copper projectiles through it which more than likely contributed to the build up. Im switching back to jacketed projectiles now. Not only that, but much better ammo. SMKs. With the odd grouping my rifle put out recently, i think im just going to stick to the heavier side of the .300 win mag projectiles, which i should have to begin with. But all these trials are only necessary in the stages of becoming a long range shooter. Its great to have all the replies on the topic.

 

[LoneTraveler]

Many modern factory barrels come up lacking. I have some way lapped several barrels getting them to shoot the way the owners wants the gun to. In 2004 I bought a new 300 WSM that had just came on the market stainless barrel, Action and hand laid Syn. Stock. While waiting for the rifle to arrive I read reviews, I read several stories about these guns not shooting to buyers wants out of the box. When my rifle arrived I started loading for the range. My first 40 rounds was cast bullets. 10 with medium Midway fire lap compound, Then 30 with fine fire lap compound. (Midway Kit Used) cleaned barrel every 5 shots. At the end of these 40 cast, gas check fire lap rounds. Cleaned the barrel and started with jacketed bullets. The first group with 180 Gr. Sierra Bullets measured 9/16 of an inch at 100 yds. This rifle has became my go to rifle, Light and accurate. If I buy another factory rifle, I will bore scope it and start from there on my plan of action.
A sharp rough edge on a land can effect down range performance on game also. When I worked in a taxidermy shop we recovered many bullets from deer hides. We recovered some that the jacket had ruptured on a land edge from the rifling contact point to the base of the bullet. Sort of looked like a banana that had been stepped on by a fat boy. Very poor penetration on a deer sized animal.

 

[davkrat]

Ive heard people complain that firelapping will round off the edges of the lands. I had assumed that might not be necessarily bad as it should do less damage to the jacket..