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Copper fouling
- Thread starter bedrok
- Start date
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B1s BmagX2
Well-Known Member
I've been using Bore Tech Eliminator for the last 2 years. It works pretty well on barrels that get maintained regularly. I'm not sure about the barrel you've described? I live a few doors away from a guy who shoots long-range competition, he turned me on to some of his tricks. He wraps a cleaning patch around a nylon brush then saturates it with Bore Tech to "wet" the bore doing a few passes from the breach. Then waits a few minutes to run a nylon brush thru the bore 5 or 6 passes, then has a go with the patches on a cheap plastic jig on a Tipton carbon fiber rod until they start coming reasonably clean. It's also important to wipe down the cleaning rod each time you change to a different "stage". In your situation, I would try his break-in technique, which I have used a few times with a new barrel. As mentioned in other posts, Kroil and J-B's bore paste. Put several Tipton felt cleaning pellets on a bronze cleaning jag, since the plastic ones don't lend themselves well to all the pushing and pulling, saturated with Kroil and run them thru the bore 5-6 passes or so, from the breach. Then put a few new cleaning pellets on the metal jag and load up with the J-B's bore paste and a few more drops of Kroil then do about 15 passes, pushing and pulling. Run a nylon brush and a few clean patches to get what's left of the paste out of the bore, then finally a lightly oiled patch. Don't forget to clean the chamber! I use a 30 cal brush, for example my 22-250, with patches wrapped around it. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but hopefully, it will save the barrel? Hope this helps? There are a lot of ways you can approach your problem, pick a few and have at it!!
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Messages
- 119
I just have to say thanks for the mentioning of using CLR for removing carbon, I had no idea. 10 years ago I bought all the bore carbon removers I could find and made a comparison of them. Nothing impressed me. I question Wipe Out's ability to remove Carbon, I didn't see it. So after watching Eric's video, I made a trip to the store for a fresh jug of CLR. One rifle in particular gives me a lot of trouble with carbon, I was simply amazed how easy it removed the carbon ring along with carbon deposits in front of the throat. I then went on a bender and cleaned four other rifles, spent most of the day cleaning carbon. One tip I'd mention for ridding the "carbon ring" is to just get the brush into the throat a 1/2" and twist it by hand a couple dozen times to specifically zero in on the ring. I used both bronze and nylon brushes and had better removal with the bronze. However, twisting that bronze brush caused a few strands to fall off, could see them on the patches. I'm pretty much going to throw all these other chemicals into the S**t can and clear off some shelve space. Cheers! Gary
RckyMtnRutt
Well-Known Member
Man just learned a lot from watching that what a cool dude!! Smart as hell too
He's a freaking Legend ShoNuff
General RE LEE
Well-Known Member
Kroil soaked patches followed by a brush wrapped with a patch coated with JB Bore Paste will knock out the carbon and copper. 20 strokes back and forth and done.
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Messages
- 119
Yep, I've done that as a last resort and it works well. However, many folks in the know suggest it removes metal.... My Rifle Smith (very prominent) has always suggested using 4-5 bronze brush's with a carbon remover and make 200-300 strokes in the bore to remove carbon. He is against using Bore Paste. I've always wondered, which is worse on the bore? Bottom line, I'm glad I've stumbled onto CLR. If using Bore Paste, a guy has to make sure he flushes out all that grit from the bore. We don't want to run a bullet down a bore with grit in it now do we?
Cheers!
Cheers!
I have a rifle that was shooting 0.3 MOA (.300 WBY, 180 and 200 grn Accubond). Then I shot a really hot load that locked the bolt. After that, it shoots 1 MOA. I just got a Teslong and I have a couple of pictures. I am wondering if this could be the cause of the lost accuracy
Attachments
That's interesting. How would one check that out? Is there a remedy?
new2mud
Well-Known Member
The photo on the left—is that "normal" condition, pre-hot load? I'm not familiar with the cross-hatching on what appears to be the lands.
As for the photo on the right, looks like a layer of copper was laid down. Now some barrels shoot better with a copper layer, and others don't.
First let me say thank you!
I did try the sharpie test. Very slight indication. Then compared to another rifle, same model, same caliber, that still shoots 0.4" at 200 yards, and it had the same very slight marks. I believe the lugs fully engage, but I am not an expert.
Both photos are post hot load, taken this morning, just different location in the barrel. I will use some copper and carbon fouling removal, and try again.
Thanks
