Copper fouling

CLR, Carbie Kleen or brake cleaner all work well on CARBON. You need to soak and let sit for some time, then SCRUB with a bronze brush for 10 strokes, patch out and SOAK again. Following the above until a patch comes out clean.
Then, and only then, follow with a copper solvent.
I normally get some streaks of copper near the muzzle after doing the above.
JB Bore Paste always gets this out for me if I follow a good scrubbing with Sweet's 7.62.
I don't do this often, aggressive cleaning damages CM barrels in my opinion.

Cheers.
 
With years of caked and baked on stuff I'd try to reduce my work. Since I'm lazy and don't want to run so many patches I'd start with a couple 24 hour periods with the wipeout with accelerator. It's amazing what crap that can remove without you having to do anything but wait. Anything that remains after that I'd go after with CLR. It works very well.
 
Over the years i have tried many cleaners (Amonia and Non Amonia) but Bore Shine has proven to be the best Copper and Carbon cleaner i have used. It will not hurt your bore if not completely removed. Bore shine and a copper brush and patches is all you need. A little elbow work. If that does not work, which would surprise me JB Bore brite and Kroil on a patch wrapped around a brush (nylon) and get with it. Only had to ever do this once on an old winchester.
 
CLR? I use it all the time on plumbing fixtures etc. Never on a barrel. First time for everything. Here goes...
Nothing I have seen attacks carbon like CLR. and it is non abrasive, since it is chemical. Just be careful about getting it on exterior parts—will dissolve bluing as well as painted surfaces.

It is excellent for getting after carbon rings and any other harder carbon buildup.
 
I had a lot of copper fouling on mine last night. I used a 1-hour soak with "Wipe Out" foam cleaner to get it out.

It also helps to have a cheap Teslong digital borescope to actually see your cleaning progress.

good luck to you!
 
Patches can come out blue if you use anything copper or bronze in your routine, like a jag or brush, essentially giving you a false negative. Bore tech has jags that won't cause the patches to turn blue. I only use nylon brushes with mine, and I use the bore tech jags - I think they are called proof positive.
I chased my tail for a whole day trying to get copper out of a barrel before I thought about the bronze jags that I was using and the bronze brush.... I found out over the years that a black brush will leave black carbon looking trace in the barrel, and the jags that aren't nickel plated will leave a trace of "copper". I also have the complete Tipton set of nickle plated bore jags.

I am a fan of a few different cleaning procedures, but Wipe-Out and the accelerator is top on my list. 2nd is Montana Copper Killer with alternating patches of Hoppes Elite Carbon Cleaner, which I don't think they make any more. Last time I was at Brownells I bought a case of Wipe-Out because of the required HazMat shipping.
 
Get a rubber plug that fits the end of the barrel tightly stand the barreled action on end and pore it full of Hoppes NO. 9 or your favorite copper cleaner that will not etch the bore and let it set for a couple of days. A mild abrasive like JB's works well also, but takes a lot of strokes and time.
 
With years of caked and baked on stuff I'd try to reduce my work. Since I'm lazy and don't want to run so many patches I'd start with a couple 24 hour periods with the wipeout with accelerator. It's amazing what crap that can remove without you having to do anything but wait. Anything that remains after that I'd go after with CLR. It works very well.
I again second this and my experience supports this statement 100%
As I said have been using Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner made by Sharp Shoot R for at least 10 years now after I read a review of it over at BR central. I gave it a try because I really didn't like using cleaners like CR-10 as they stunk up the entire basement when used them and I was using tons of patches to clean my long guns.
This is not my recommendation or me instructing anyone on how to use Wipe Out just only my sharing my experience in using it. and how I USE it.
With my rifle leveled and securely in my gun vice
First I take a copper solvent proof nylon bore brush and wrap it with a patch I put a little W/O Accelerator on it to help it stick to the nylon bristles.
Next I insert it into my bore guide until it is centered in the removable solvent port and absolutely saturate it with Wipe-Out Accelerator and add a little in the tube of the bore guide in front of the brush
Then I work it back and forth the entire length of the barrel 10-15x till it creates a kind of froth.
Next I take two correct for caliber nylon bore brushes the type that will not react to copper solvents wrap each in a caliber correct patch place one on my bench by the muzzle end other by the breach end
Then I remove the plastic part of my bore guide with the solvent port and using the extended applicator sold by Sharp Shoot R inject the Wipe-Out foam into the barrel until it barely starts to come out the muzzle end
Then quickly as I can plug both ends with the patch wrapped brushes.
Allow to soak 4-12 hours
Using a 100% nickel plated Tipton bore jag push 8-12 cleaning patches through bore.
Cleanse barrel first with my DIY Big Ed's Red then with action cleaner
Lightly Lube with Brake Free CLP

In the last ten years I have performed this exact process certainly well over 100 times in my Bolt, lever and semi-auto rifles, inline muzzleloaders and fully rifled barrels of my 12ga slug guns with no ill effects what so ever.
Although Wipe-out is advertised as safe for any modern gun stock finish, regardless I always do exercise great care not to get ANY type of cleaning solvent on my beautiful wood stocked Marlin 336c's or Encore 209x50 ML.

I have let Wipe-Out and Accelerator soak in my plugged barrels anywhere from 1 hour to 4 hours to 12 hours and have had no issues or any type of damage done to my barrels both stainless steel and chrome molly and never had any instant where it caused rust to occur in my chrome molly barrels.

What utterly amazed me is how few patches I have to use to go from filthy to clean very rarely do I use more then 10-12 patches most ever I can recall was 15 before they came out same as they went in. This is cleaning rifles that had been fired 30-60 times between cleanings.
 
Last edited:
I do even less than that! I run a single patch of accelerator through the bore. Then spray in the foam cleaner letting it run out the muzzle and plug the chamber opening with a rag or patch. Let it sit overnight. One patch pushed through will move all sorts of gunk/copper out the muzzle. If I've done this on a regular basis I just run a dry patch or two and call it done.

For a rifle with a questionable cleaning regimen I'll then run C4 a few strokes and see what comes out. If relatively clean I'll run a dry patch then a patch of Montana Extreme a few strokes. If those are clean I'll run a dry patch and call it clean. If I find it dirty with either C4 or ME I'll run more of those until it's clean. If I continue to get dirty patches I'll look through a bore scope and see if I find a problem area and focus there (usually the end of the chamber neck).

Sometimes I'll skip the C4 and ME and just run CLR.
 
Sweets or butches should take care of it. 3-5 wet let sit for 10-15 min 3-5 dry repeat until gone shouldnt take more than an hour
 
I wanted to add another note and maybe someone here can shed some light on this. C4 Carbon Killer comes out clean then running Montana Extreme I'll get black but no blue. It seems to me that ME may be actually removing more carbon than C4 alone. Anyone else see this?
 
I wanted to add another note and maybe someone here can shed some light on this. C4 Carbon Killer comes out clean then running Montana Extreme I'll get black but no blue. It seems to me that ME may be actually removing more carbon than C4 alone. Anyone else see this?
Clean until you know it's clean and then run some CLR through it and take a look see
 
As I have NO experience with using CLR to clean guns i would recommend if you are going to use it on a non-stainless firearm to first take a piece steel and do a test application to see if it causes the steel to rust.
I watched a video by Eric Cortina AKA Speedy Gonzalez and he showed CLR didn't harm his stainless steel muzzlel bake, but I have no idea if it will harm chrome molly steel.

Possibly others here who have used CLR to clean chrome molly guns can add their experiences about if CLR is safe or not.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top