Best way to sight in new scope

[Cold Trigger Finger]

A 3-18 is ALOT of scope for a 375.
I've hunted with different 375s since 87 . Highest power I've ever had on any of them was a 2-7 .
I also do the bolt out bore sight method.
The 3 classic bullet weight/velocity , factory ammo loads were designed to do just what Greyfox described.
300 gr softs and solids @ 2530 ish fps = dead on @ 100
270 gr softs @ around 2700 fps = dead on @ 200
And 235 gr softs @ 2800 + fairly close to being zeroed @ 300.
Ttbomk the 375 H+H Belted Magnum was the world's first all around rifle. Designed for 3 different bullet weights and velocities to be used on different animals. And ranges to target. But with only 1 zero of the sight.
ALOT of the impetus for that was for its brother cartridge, the 375 H+H Flanged Magnum . for use in double rifles and single shots. It has a lower velocity for each bullet weight and shorter zero distances respectively. But still followed the same 1 sighting zero principle.

Most people that use the 375 shoot the 300 gr and 270 gr bullets.
I mostly use the 270 gr as I only hunt Alaska with it.

The 375 isn't a ( stopper) cartridge per se . But, it has very manageable recoil and is really an easy cartridge to master if your rifle fits reasonably well. And it does hit hard . With a good shoulder shot , it generally knocks a brown bear down, and keeps it down long enough to put another bullet in the bear.

 

[foul bore]

That is how I do it..

Me too

 

[Pulpwood]

Most previous guys have good suggestions, you can get as technical as all get out or simple as can be on this. A laser bore sight can help if you have access to one . If not as stated before place your rifle on a good steady rest remove the bolt and line up bore at a target 25 yds away and adjust your scope to the target this usually will get you on paper . Shoot the rifle once , hold the rifle steady and adjust the cross hair from bullseye to the hole you just shot. Now you should be close and fire 3-4 rounds and see where you are from there

 

[Whaler63]

Hello I have read a lot of different ways to sight in a new scope. I have a Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x50 CDS-ZL2 That is going on a 375 h&h Magnum. I would like to have it zerod in at 100 yards. Maybe even 200 Yards. Any suggestions?
Thank you,
David

Hi David,
Respectfully, I think you have a lot of glass for thumping' bears, moose, etc. at 200yds... My immediate concern would be field of view and whether you need a quick shoulder shot or not. I concur with Greyfox to set your zero to 200yds. MPBR would be 300yrds w/270gn projectile possibly more depending on your load and what game you're after.

I shoot a M70 SE in 375HH and topped it with a Leupold VXR 1.4-4x20/30mm tube, HogPlex reticle and quick release rings. It is a "reference architecture" for an African 1 gunner...Good out to 300 yards with no or minimal scope adjustment and quick to shoulder, sight and fire-repeatedly on a charging Cape Buff that's heart is set to tap-dance on your windpipe. Assuming the same holds true for Bear, you may have a challenge with field of view and sight acquisition on a moving/charging animal. As previously stated, I think you may be over scoped. Now if your gunning beyond 200yrds...that's another story. But up to 300...no need for the custom dial either. That VX-6HD is a fine piece of gl-***. Might be a better pairing with your long range deer/elk/sheep/antelope guns. Or a varminter...- which the 375HH aint. It's more of a Potato Digger...

Now for zero-ing there are many schools of thought. As they say; " There's more to skinning a cat than chucking it head in a boot jack and pulling on its tail"...What has worked for me is buying laser bore cartridge-specific to your gun. (375HH in this case). Shine it at your neighbor's bedroom window at night....(Kidding..don't do that !!!). Shine it at a safe object 100yrds away in the dark and then adjust the reticle to cover the laser dot. Keep in mind that this dot is about 4MOA. It will get you in the ball park without blowing your shoulder off with a box and a half of ammo to get there. Sight for 100 first. Then hit the 200 and dial the rest in there. --Or-- sight for 2" high at 100, then fine tune at 200. This is best done off the bags.

Another good exercise for being game-ready is to quickly stand up and fire 4 shots at your target at 100 yards as fast as you accurately can. Idea being to try to keep them a within 8-10" radius to simulate DG or a moving animal.

Best of Success!!

 

[David Zimprich]

A 3-18 is ALOT of scope for a 375.
I've hunted with different 375s since 87 . Highest power I've ever had on any of them was a 2-7 .
I also do the bolt out bore sight method.
The 3 classic bullet weight/velocity , factory ammo loads were designed to do just what Greyfox described.
300 gr softs and solids @ 2530 ish fps = dead on @ 100
270 gr softs @ around 2700 fps = dead on @ 200
And 235 gr softs @ 2800 + fairly close to being zeroed @ 300.
Ttbomk the 375 H+H Belted Magnum was the world's first all around rifle. Designed for 3 different bullet weights and velocities to be used on different animals. And ranges to target. But with only 1 zero of the sight.
ALOT of the impetus for that was for its brother cartridge, the 375 H+H Flanged Magnum . for use in double rifles and single shots. It has a lower velocity for each bullet weight and shorter zero distances respectively. But still followed the same 1 sighting zero principle.

Most people that use the 375 shoot the 300 gr and 270 gr bullets.
I mostly use the 270 gr as I only hunt Alaska with it.

The 375 isn't a ( stopper) cartridge per se . But, it has very manageable recoil and is really an easy cartridge to master if your rifle fits reasonably well. And it does hit hard . With a good shoulder shot , it generally knocks a brown bear down, and keeps it down long enough to put another bullet in the bear.

 

[David Zimprich]

Thank you Sir for your advice, I may have to much scope for what I am shooting.
David

 

[David Zimprich]

Hi David,
Respectfully, I think you have a lot of glass for thumping' bears, moose, etc. at 200yds... My immediate concern would be field of view and whether you need a quick shoulder shot or not. I concur with Greyfox to set your zero to 200yds. MPBR would be 300yrds w/270gn projectile possibly more depending on your load and what game you're after.

I shoot a M70 SE in 375HH and topped it with a Leupold VXR 1.4-4x20/30mm tube, HogPlex reticle and quick release rings. It is a "reference architecture" for an African 1 gunner...Good out to 300 yards with no or minimal scope adjustment and quick to shoulder, sight and fire-repeatedly on a charging Cape Buff that's heart is set to tap-dance on your windpipe. Assuming the same holds true for Bear, you may have a challenge with field of view and sight acquisition on a moving/charging animal. As previously stated, I think you may be over scoped. Now if your gunning beyond 200yrds...that's another story. But up to 300...no need for the custom dial either. That VX-6HD is a fine piece of gl----. Might be a better pairing with your long range deer/elk/sheep/antelope guns. Or a varminter...- which the 375HH aint. It's more of a Potato Digger...

Now for zero-ing there are many schools of thought. As they say; " There's more to skinning a cat than chucking it head in a boot jack and pulling on its tail"...What has worked for me is buying laser bore cartridge-specific to your gun. (375HH in this case). Shine it at your neighbor's bedroom window at night....(Kidding..don't do that !!!). Shine it at a safe object 100yrds away in the dark and then adjust the reticle to cover the laser dot. Keep in mind that this dot is about 4MOA. It will get you in the ball park without blowing your shoulder off with a box and a half of ammo to get there. Sight for 100 first. Then hit the 200 and dial the rest in there. --Or-- sight for 2" high at 100, then fine tune at 200. This is best done off the bags.

Another good exercise for being game-ready is to quickly stand up and fire 4 shots at your target at 100 yards as fast as you accurately can. Idea being to try to keep them a within 8-10" radius to simulate DG or a moving animal.

Best of Success!!

 

[David Zimprich]

Thanks for your advice regarding the scope and sighting it in. I had no idea that the scope I bought is too much for what I plan on using it for. Again thank you,
David

 

[IdahoHunter208]

https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/how-to-sight-in-a-rifle/
This is what I have used and it works great every time. Make sure you are mounting your scope correctly and not over torqing it otherwise it could damage the scope and throw off your zero when you adjust the dials.

 

[David Zimprich]

https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/how-to-sight-in-a-rifle/
This is what I have used and it works great every time. Make sure you are mounting your scope correctly and not over torqing it otherwise it could damage the scope and throw off your zero when you adjust the dials.

 

[David Zimprich]

Thanks for the great information Sir!!!
I really appreciate it.
David

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

IMO, no need for a laser. Find a good target at 100 yards. I use a red "danger" oval that's on a utility fence near me. Take the bolt out and secure your rifle on a sandbag or other. Look down the barrel until the bore lines up with your target. Take your time and keep it concentric with the darker outer ring of your barrel. Then move the reticles to match the target. Over the last several rifles I've boresighted by eye, they have been off by no more than 2" either way.

By far the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to sight in a scope. If done right you can get very close. I'd sight in 2" high at 100 and verify your 200 yard POI.

 

[mtbullet1]

Hello I have read a lot of different ways to sight in a new scope. I have a Leupold VX-6HD 3-18x50 CDS-ZL2 That is going on a 375 h&h Magnum. I would like to have it zerod in at 100 yards. Maybe even 200 Yards. Any suggestions?
Thank you,
David

bore sight it, shoot it, adjust

 

[Clem Bronkoski]

IMO asking a question like this means you haven't been shooting very long. I hope this isn't your first rifle because it will definitely let you know when it goes off. I'd hate to see you develop a flinch.