Belted Headspace

[bigngreen]

You've gotten a LOT of poor advice here, first headspace for a belted Magnum is no different spec than anything else .000-.004, the primer popping out .010+ is outside field guage specs and needs corrected or you'll run into the next issue in a few firings. Just get a belted mag go guage and set things correctly do not let anyone get you thinking about where the shoulder is at till after your first firing, that's when shoulder position comes into play.
The long brass does nothing, I can't believe how many people are falling for it, solves literally nothing!!

 

[xsn10s]

I'd check it with headspace gauges with the ejector taken out. You could have a local gunsmith do it for cheap I would guess. You could also rent them 4D Reamer Rental. If you're going to swap barrels then buying a set might be a good idea.

 

[TR1Hemi]

This is a new to ME rifle, so I have the normal, "why did he want to get rid of it" questions, was it a problem child?, was it rebarreled at some point?, if so, properly? It looks like it is still a beautifully blued completely stock Savage 111, with a Timney trigger. It has the Indian Head logo on the pistol grip, serial begins with G.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I'd check it with headspace gauges with the ejector taken out. You could have a local gunsmith do it for cheap I would guess. You could also rent them 4D Reamer Rental. If you're going to swap barrels then buying a set might be a good idea.

To the O.P. , heck, a local 'smith might be able to remedy slightly loose headspace without you having to buy any toys. I always look at things from a do it yourself point of view with limited gunsmithing in town.

 

[TR1Hemi]

This was my original thought, break the nut loose, see if she will turn in 1/8" turn. 20 thread per inch pitch is .050" per turn, so it would take at most 1/5 turn.
I take nothing in to be fixed, thats why tools were invented...lol Course you have to know how to use them.

 

[Olskoolgman]

I think you would be better served if you put the barrel in the vise not the receiver. You can put way more pressure on the barrel. Something isnt right if you cant back the nut off with a standard savage wrench. I have put mine on to 80lbs and they come off quite easy.

 

[TR1Hemi]

OK, so, I measured a bunch or different brands of brass and came up with head to top of belt measurements of between .213 and almost .223. ***? How the 300 Win has gotten a rep as an accurate cartridge is beyond me with all the tolerance built into everything. If I had it to do all over again, I would just get an action, and have a barrel custom chambered for Lapua, or Peterson, or what ever brand of brass I intended on using.

Again thank you all for the replies, and the PM's, and the phone convo's. This forum is by far the best shooting related one I have come across! I am glad I finally created an account.

I think I am going to do a lot of looking at reamer prints, cartridge gauge specs, headspace gauge specs, and take in all the knowledge I have gained over the last month of owning this thing and give it a good think. The things I may be looking at in this gun are high production factory specs vs what I think a custom gun in a perfect world should be, and see how far apart those are and decide what, if any, action is warranted.

What ever it is I just want it done so I spend as little as possible before making any change, that would require reworking a load. Primers and powder are spendy these days if anyone hasn't noticed.

 

[TR1Hemi]

I think you would be better served if you put the barrel in the vise not the receiver. You can put way more pressure on the barrel. Something isnt right if you cant back the nut off with a standard savage wrench. I have put mine on to 80lbs and they come off quite easy.

Makes sense, this is a light sporter taper, and it is glossy blue, though, my corcern with that is the taper and getting enough grip only on the thicker end.

 

[TR1Hemi]

Well Wiki-How-'Bout That. chamber spec is .220" So, riflemakers make them .223", brass makers make the brass .215.......bam .008" clearance.

I look at things from an aerospace and engine building standpoint. If I can build a small block chevy in my garage and keep rod oil clearance at .0015-.002 then I should think that should not be a problem in the firearms industry.

 

[TR1Hemi]

Apparently as I and our local CCW instructor found out. It must have been a Monday or Friday gun. I had noticed that the stamping of Savage Model 111 - 300 Win Mag blah. blah, blah. was not right down at the edge of the stock. He agreed with my theories and we used his action wrench and we got her loosened up, with not a scratch to the blueing.
I dont know if they stamp, then blue, then reassemble, and just did not get it quite right but she took about 1/8th turn tighter, any more and new brass would not chamber. About 1 in 10 once fired have a slight resistance to bolt closure. I consider this perfect as the lugs are not even mated yet, they are still mostly blue in the receiver. The stamping is right down next to the stock now. Now to proceed with load D!

 

[dennisinaz]

Good luck with that method.

 

[TR1Hemi]

Good luck with that method.

What method is that?

 

[TR1Hemi]

No different then getting a prefit. Barrel is on tighter than it was by the factory by about 1/8th turn, less headspace is good thing, until factory ammo or new brass wont chamber.

 

[TR1Hemi]

Belt depth was .090" in the barrel. Brass extended .130" past the end of the barrel. .090 + .130 = .220 the exact specification, as noted in SAAMI spec. Bolt face depth is .115", .130 - .115 = .015" gap between bolt and barrel. I can combat throat erosion .015" with a reamer before having to face the end of the barrel, provided it turns out to be a shooter, in which case a rebarrel would be the option of choice.