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Belted Headspace

It is amazing the self confidence and the common sense one gets from working with some really scary chit, while in the military during wartime for over 2 decades. There is nothing I am afraid to tear apart and rebuild. My lifted XJ was all done by me; stroker 6, lift, transfer case rebuild, Dana 44 ring and pinion change. I do my own front end alignments, there is a hot 67 Mustang 289 running around I did the motor for, a 73 Jeep J10 360 I did the motor for, and several dirt track motors. Common sesne and KNOWING whether you NEED the right tool or can make your own tool, or can shade tree it, goes a long way.
 
That must be why everyone uses nothing but a primer and an open case to fireform their brass... .:rolleyes:

Once again this was brass fireformed in a different chamber with full loads.
Who said anything about fireforming?

What is it you do not understand that if you pop some old primers off in your rifle, that while the ejector is holding the brass forward against the shoulder or belt, that then that primer is free to move back until it hits the bolt face, is an indicator of headspace? It the headspace is ZERO the primer cant move. There is a whole physics law based on that, 2 objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time.

You make a lot of assumptions based on what you think you know. You probably dont even know what the original issue was, do you? This is why I hate post counts. Post counts dont equal IQ. It just means in most cases the person is opinionated, and has time to run his piehole convincing people of his greatness.
 
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Who said anything about fireforming?

What is it you do not understand that if you pop some old primers off in your rifle, that while the ejector is holding the brass forward against the shoulder or belt, that then that primer is free to move back until it hits the bolt face, is an indicator of headspace? It the headspace is ZERO the primer cant move. There is a whole physics law based on that, 2 objects cannot occupy the same space at the same time.
If you're starting with brass of unknown spec's you you have no basis for comparison to the actual specs of either the brass or the rifles without measuring.
 
If you're starting with brass of unknown spec's you you have no basis for comparison to the actual specs of either the brass or the rifles without measuring.
It's a belted mag, the belt should catch it regardless of how it's was formed the belt should catch it by .004 or it's in no go land, time to reset.
 
It's a belted mag, the belt should catch it regardless of how it's was formed the belt should catch it by .004 or it's in no go land, time to reset.
You have no idea of the specs for the rifle it was fired in, the brass itself, or the rifle in question without measuring.

If you know your brass is in spec when you start you have an entirely different equation but that wasn't the case here was it?
 
He had all the measurements needed!! Once that headspace went past .004+ you have all the info needed to start looking at resetting head space. He set it to his brass which is fine in this case, I do prefer three checks, guage and mic, guage and .001 shims and the brass and shims, then you have everything needed but simply going on the brass will work fine since the belt is such a static part of a case unlike the shoulder on non belted cases.
 
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You have no idea of the specs for the rifle it was fired in, the brass itself, or the rifle in question without measuring.

If you know your brass is in spec when you start you have an entirely different equation but that wasn't the case here was it?
I did measure jackstick, when I had it apart. Belt depth of barrel is .090", belt depth of brass is .220", .220-.090 = .130" of brass extending past the barrel. Which is exactly what I have. Bolt face depth is .115", .130-.115 = .015" of space between the breech face and bolt lug face, after reducing headspace to zero. If you cant grasp this concept, I dont know what to tell you.
 
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