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Belted Headspace

WildRose said:
When you've had your hands on the gun and tried your go-ng gauges on it be sure and let us know.

Does the gun function properly with factory ammo and reloads using once fired brass formed in it's own chamber?
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You can have a gun way out of spec and shoot, it going bang isn't the benchmark for fine.

In beltless case your not out an anything just banging it out and adjusting your die, you'll still size down the base fine.
A belted case you have the belt which for longevity you need to size as close to as possible to bring the ring Infront of the base down at least .0005 for good chambering. Now set the die to headspace of the shoulder and your .017 of depending on the shoulder on that particular reamer, add to that .010 of the belt headspace and you at .027 of unsizable area in front of the belt and usually in 3-5 firings you'll be on the forum with brass that is tight in the chamber and you'll need a Willis die OR run a reamer in that is slightly larger on the base so you get a little more squeeze with the die forward.
The best you can have is die, chamber and brass all in the right spot, throw one out as bad as the OP has and you will fight it through the whole system.
 
bigngreen said:
You can have a gun way out of spec and shoot, it going bang isn't the benchmark for fine.

In beltless case your not out an anything just banging it out and adjusting your die, you'll still size down the base fine.
A belted case you have the belt which for longevity you need to size as close to as possible to bring the ring Infront of the base down at least .0005 for good chambering. Now set the die to headspace of the shoulder and your .017 of depending on the shoulder on that particular reamer, add to that .010 of the belt headspace and you at .027 of unsizable area in front of the belt and usually in 3-5 firings you'll be on the forum with brass that is tight in the chamber and you'll need a Willis die OR run a reamer in that is slightly larger on the base so you get a little more squeeze with the die forward.
The best you can have is die, chamber and brass all in the right spot, throw one out as bad as the OP has and you will fight it through the whole system.
Click to expand...
If the head space is badly out of spec bad things happen like guns blowing up and brass splitting.

That's why head space matters, if it didn't nobody would care about it.
 
WildRose said:
Really lame strawman attempt on your part.

Nobody suggested that was the benchmark.




What part of the above paragraph is it that you need explained?
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Wow, is something wrong that your this worked up about a simple issue he already fixed. Are you in some kinda pain or something that's causing this kinda behavior? Your acting bizarre at this point!!
 
bigngreen said:
Wow, is something wrong that your this worked up about a simple issue he already fixed. Are you in some kinda pain or something that's causing this kinda behavior? Your acting bizarre at this point!!
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I'm not the least bit worked up nor am I the one who felt the need to insult others for commenting.
 
WildRose said:
I'm not the least bit worked up nor am I the one who felt the need to insult others for commenting.
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Well, bad advice is bad advice, he had as good a direct headspace reading as you can get without pulling the barrels and mic'ing it and it's not only past no-go but past field which is +0.010. Is that in the danger zone, no that's more in the .050 range BUT it's definitely out of spec and definitely will make reloading more of a challenge than needed. Personally I prefer to set on guage and use a mic then confirm with .001 shims BUT setting on brass tight will be far better than past loose spec.
 
bigngreen said:
Well, bad advice is bad advice, he had as good a direct headspace reading as you can get without pulling the barrels and mic'ing it and it's not only past no-go but past field which is +0.010. Is that in the danger zone, no that's more in the .050 range BUT it's definitely out of spec and definitely will make reloading more of a challenge than needed. Personally I prefer to set on guage and use a mic then confirm with .001 shims BUT setting on brass tight will be far better than past loose spec.
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What bad advice exactly was he given? The question as to how it was performing with factory ammo and brass reloaded from that rifle or to check it with a head space gauge?
 
TR1Hemi said:
Did you know the headspace on an M61A1 Vulcan 20mm cannon is controlled by depth micrometer measurements and adjusted with a stainless steel laminated shim?
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When I worked in the diesel world the Ford 6.0 had a pressed-on weight on the crankshaft and it was GOSPEL that the thing could not be removed or the crank would never balance again. Enter one really anal retentive submariner turned diesel tech newly in the state from Groton, he dialed that sucker in, took it off, put it on, no balance issue. All a matter of tools, indicators, and ability. Here we all were nervous about tearing up a $3k engine block, this guy was fresh of a nuc boat and being worried about FLKs if he screwed up - all a matter of perspective.
 

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