Any advise helpful!

[xsn10s]

So then the next thing to do is make sure your scope is plumb with your rifle. I'm not familiar with the new Ruger American but I'm sure you can find something on youtube.

 

[xsn10s]

And lastly though I haven't used a scope level bubble or installed one it looks very easy to do. You could use a level used for construction, a plumb line, or even a door jam inside you house as a plumb line.

 

[sam.krapf]

You can use that reticle to "Kentucky Windage" your shots or drops. Meaning instead of dialing in your drop for 200 yards, or 300 yards, or whatever distance you use your reticle for those distances. That will eliminate and problems with tracking in your dials.

Yes and I did. When I was shooting 8-10 inches right at 300 yards I held over for windage and was able to shoot a decent group around the bullseye, at least enough for a kill shot. Still, I would like to figure out why this is happening.

 

[xsn10s]

Though in my house if I'm pointing a rifle around I take my bolt out and make sure there is no ammo around to keep things safe.

 

[xsn10s]

Yes and I did. When I was shooting 8-10 inches right at 300 yards I held over for windage and was able to shoot a decent group around the bullseye, at least enough for a kill shot. Still, I would like to figure out why this is happening.

What I am saying is don't use your dials. Do all your distance shots at whatever distance by moving down your reticle to whatever MOA you need at whatever distance.

 

[sam.krapf]

What I am saying is don't use your dials. Do all your distance shots at whatever distance by moving down your reticle to whatever MOA you need at whatever distance.

This would work. However I would like for the turret adjustments to work for me as well. But thanks for the input I have a lot of stuff to try now!

 

[Hand Skills]

I have heard of people adding stiffening epoxies/bondo/etc to the forend to stiffen it up. I just assume this isn't were it would be flexing so it would be kind of point-less

Depends on the rifle support. The further forward the front support is, the more important stock rigidity becomes. If you're shooting off a bi-pod, it could very well be a factor.

By supporting the front of the rifle near/under the front action screw, this effect can be minimized/isolated.

 

[xsn10s]

This would work. However I would like for the turret adjustments to work for me as well. But thanks for the input I have a lot of stuff to try now!

If you want to use your turrets then you'll have to do a box test like Handskills suggested. Look on youtube for a snipershide tutorial on setting up a scope level. I think Panhandle Precision has a tutorial on this also. You'll need the scope level with the rifle prior to the box test.

 

[ATH]

When you naturally shoulder the rifle, does the reticle LOOK naturally level? I would never trust a gunsmith telling me they leveled the scope. Too much variability in quality, I'd verify myself.

First thing I'd do is pull the top half of the rings and put a level on the lower ring halves. Level the gun this way in some vice or on a lockable bipod. Put the scope in and level it (I use the vertical corner of my neighbor's house viewed out the window). Lock this down. Then go do the box test and see how things go.

 

[Dinosaur hunter]

Try setting zero at 200 for windage. Then shoot at 100 and 300. To see if it helps.
If your groups are 1" at 100 it can runout quick at further distance

 

[WildRose]

Hello all.


I am new to the forum and just getting into the idea of long range hunting. College guy on a budget. I am from Southern Idaho so I am wanting to be confident taking 300-500 yard shots for desert elk/mule deer. Most of my deer hunting so far has been in the 100-200 yard range so I haven't had any issues so now I am just wanting to extend my range.


I've slowly been building up my set up with a Ruger American 30-06. I was able to snag a 4x16-44 MOA Vortex Diamondback Tactical before they went on backorder. The hollow, light stock in the -06 was beating the crap out of me so I have added weight to the stock which took care of that problem. I also added a bipod. With a 165gr Sierra Game-Kings I shoot 1-1.5 inch groups with some under 1 inch on rare occasions, usually depending on how I'm doing on the particular day. So I have some questions about a few different things. I shoot good groups at 100, 200, 300 yards. Precision (acceptable for hunting imo) is fine, however accuracy is not. Know knowing theoretically at 200 yards my SGK drops 3.8 inches and at 300 yards it drops 13.8, I dial my elevation accordingly with a 100 yard zero as well as adjust parallax at each range so the reticle doesn't move on the target. This is with little wind. With each 100 yard increment my bullets impact farther to the right and up of my aiming point. About 2-3 inches at 200 yards and about 8-10 at 300.


So..

1. My scope was mounted and torqued level at the local gun shop. I have double checked it, so the scope to my knowledge is level so there shouldn't be cant. I do my best to make sure the scope is level at all times. However, does anyone have experience with the anti-cant bubble levels? Are they installed easy?
2. I have worked hard at developing better trigger control as that was an issue for me at one point. I have the trigger set as low as possible, 3lbs. Since I shoot good groups at 100 dead-on I have a hard time thinking its me pulling.
3. I have a known astigmatism in my right eye and I shoot right handed with a righty set up. Probably not ideal. I found this out after I purchased the rifle as I have always shot every gun right handed. Does anyone have experience with this? Could it have something to do with my POI being off to the right at longer ranges? Would it be worth making the switch if so?

Any input or constructive criticism would be appreciated. I'm sure I will have many more questions as time goes on as I am just a greenhorn when it comes to this. But hey, we all have to start somewhere. Thanks!

When you talk about the lightweight stock I'm wonering if you're talking about a cheap factory plastic stock.

If you are that needs to be your first area to improve.

There are some ways to stiffen them using expoxy, a piece of all thread or stainless rod but ultimately your goal should be to replace it with a good laminate or composite.

I would at least start with what you have and get someone to bed it and install pillars along with of course making sure that it's free floated.

 

[WildRose]

This would work. However I would like for the turret adjustments to work for me as well. But thanks for the input I have a lot of stuff to try now!

You need to get this rifle set up properly to the extent you can before worrying aout the small stuff.

Dialing or not have a gunsmith double check to see if the scope is pllum and level or if it's got any cant.

You're not going to have much success using just reticle subtensions and KY windage as it takes a great deal of time and practice to master that.

It's a whole lot easier to dope and dial than to try to learn to get along without doing so.

 

[sam.krapf]

You need to get this rifle set up properly to the extent you can before worrying aout the small stuff.

Dialing or not have a gunsmith double check to see if the scope is pllum and level or if it's got any cant.

You're not going to have much success using just reticle subtensions and KY windage as it takes a great deal of time and practice to master that.

It's a whole lot easier to dope and dial than to try to learn to get along without doing so.

This is where I imagine having a properly mounted bubble level matched with my reticle would take the guess work out of that. In that case any cant and its influence on POI would be shooter error.. or am I missing something?

 

[WildRose]

This is where I imagine having a properly mounted bubble level matched with my reticle would take the guess work out of that. In that case any cant and its influence on POI would be shooter error.. or am I missing something?

No, it doesn't matter if you have a bubble level or not if the reticle itself isn't plum/level. Plum, striaghtup and down, level then to the horizon perpendicular with it.

If its not the further you get from the + in your field of view the greater the error.

Bubble levels help us as shoothers to know at a glance if were'r plum/level but that's in addition to rather than instead of.