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Any advise helpful!

No, it doesn't matter if you have a bubble level or not if the reticle itself isn't plum/level. Plum, striaghtup and down, level then to the horizon perpendicular with it.

If its not the further you get from the + in your field of view the greater the error.

Bubble levels help us as shoothers to know at a glance if were'r plum/level but that's in addition to rather than instead of.
We are talking plum and level to the action/barrel correct? I guess I am thinking if my rifle/reticle is level, who is to say me, the shooter, is level and not canted when firing. This would be where the bubble level to the reticle comes in. Or am I thinking about this way to hard..?
 
So once you get your scope set up you can run a box test to see if it's tracking true.
 
We are talking plum and level to the action/barrel correct? I guess I am thinking if my rifle/reticle is level, who is to say me, the shooter, is level and not canted when firing. This would be where the bubble level to the reticle comes in. Or am I thinking about this way to hard..?
This is correct. Actually, most people have a pretty good sense of plum and level even without an instrument to check them and both mother nature and man provide us lots of things downrange to use to check ourselves.

A shooter's level helps us fine tune it and at long range is certainly necessar for precision but you'd be surprised at how many people get along just fine without them.

Of course if you have "aging eyes", it's hard to put them far enough our towards the muzzle for them to even be useable.
 
I have heard of people adding stiffening epoxies/bondo/etc to the forend to stiffen it up. I just assume this isn't were it would be flexing so it would be kind of point-less

sam., the black/plastic stocks are not worth attempting epoxy work. Epoxy won't bond to that plastic, perhaps for a very short time, but it will release. Save up and get a Boyd's laminate stock which is the least expensive quality, strong stock out there. Yes it will need bedding, but all stocks do. Good luck
 
sam., the black/plastic stocks are not worth attempting epoxy work. Epoxy won't bond to that plastic, perhaps for a very short time, but it will release. Save up and get a Boyd's laminate stock which is the least expensive quality, strong stock out there. Yes it will need bedding, but all stocks do. Good luck
This is most likely the route I will go at some point with this rifle.
 
sam., the black/plastic stocks are not worth attempting epoxy work. Epoxy won't bond to that plastic, perhaps for a very short time, but it will release. Save up and get a Boyd's laminate stock which is the least expensive quality, strong stock out there. Yes it will need bedding, but all stocks do. Good luck
It will if you use the right expoxy and rough the plastic up properly. I've done several of the older 90's era Remington Customs with a mix of either Marine Tex or Devcon Steel and tungsten powder/shot.

Never had a problem with any of them.
 
Here is another 2 cents worth. I know being on a college student budget is really tight especially in today's world. I'm an older guy blind in left eye but blessed that right hand right eye shooter, so I can relate to vision frustration! An option for reasonable stock can be found here
https://www.stockysstocks.com/stock...-medalist-ruger-americantm-sporter-stock.html
It's not super expensive and pretty sure they have aluminum pillars. I have one I dropped a Howa 1500 gameking in and it helped greatly.
Scope levels aren't difficult to install, just be sure to remove top half of rings as ATH said above. But unless shooting out past 200 yards, don't know if would fool with level.
Main thing is try one thing at a time and note which works and which doesn't and finally do what you are the most comfortable with that gives consistency. Lots of great advice on here. Best of luck!
 
I found if I loosened my action screws that the barreled action would move side to side. So I acquired a laminate stock from Stockys, glasses the action and side lug area and accuracy improved and recoil decreased dramatically. My groups at 100 decreased by 35 percent . Try a few different kind over ammo with premium bullets mine like 165 gr. Have fun working it out . That is the fun part to me. Good luck .
 
I have a buddy with a 7 REm mag Ruger American that's box stock and he can hang with my customs builds out to about 600 yards. Maybe he just got lucky and got a shooter. The rest of the comments seem like good ideas but have you considered trying different ammo? Just because it shoots well at 100 and 200 doesn't mean that it will stay consistent as you get out there. Just a thought.
 
I think there are lots of facts that could be involved as well. My recommendation would be that if you are going to stick with your factory setup/stock, then I would break it all the way down (remove scope and pull the action out of the stock). The Ruger Americans have a good bedding system, but the stocks aren't the best. I would get a broom stick and wrap it some heavy grit sandpaper and take about 1/4 inch out of the front of the stock tip. Then reassemble action into the stock, put your bipod on and get down and load the bipod as you would in the field. Have someone take a thin piece of cardboard or thick stock paper (credit card or better thickness) and have them try to slide it all the way down the barrel to the action. If it's free floated when the bipod is loaded, you should be good. Torque the action back down to the proper specs and in the proper order (front or back first) based on Rugers recommendations.
Now on to the scope. Order a scope level kit from Midway/Brownells or one of the other online shops. The Wheeler one with two levels is pretty good and only like $35. Good piece of kit to have for future rifle builds or if you upgrade you optic down the line. It will always be useful to a shooter, get one. Make sure you base is torqued proper to the action. Get your level on there then the barrel level matching. Now put on your ring bottoms and torque to spec (I always lap rings too, but that's just me). Now get your scope installed and level the top turret to the barrel level. Lock the tops down and re-verify level. Reticals always look canted to me when shouldering a rifle, but I know they aren't. On a pod they always look good. Now you should have a solid platform.
Now run your box test on your optic. You can do this in your backyard without ammo if you can solidly mount your gun in a vice. Just put some dots on a board in a box at equi-distances. Keep count and dial in/out till you hit all points. Then try repeating using the counts you came up with the first time around. Things should hit the same places again.
Next is ammo. Not sure how factory precision ammo is for the 06, but lots have them so would figure should be plenty. You will have to try maybe 5-10 different boxes if you aren't reloading till you find one your rifle really likes.
Finally will be trigger control and form, which have a HUGE impact on repeatable/consistent shot placement.
Also keep in mind that thin barrel will heat up and throw shots after your second or third one, so you should wait about 10 mins between 3 shot groups till your barrel fully cools. Maybe switch out that 06 for a Ruger American Predator in 6.5 Creed if can swing it. They are known to shoot, even from the factory stock surprisingly.
Good luck!
 
Accuracy for long range is a series of incremental improvements to the equipment and the shooter. Focus most of your time and money on improving the shooter. When you are able to swing an upgrade then maybe look at an aftermarket stock. Your current setup is perfectly capable of 300-500 yard shots on deer (per your original post). Coues deer hunters in Southern Arizona were making shots like that for years before range finders and ballistic apps. The 30-06 is plenty capable of those ranges.

If your bullet impact is creeping horizontally as you increase range then you are likely canting the rifle. If it's moving during a "tall target" test then your scope needs to be rotated (in small increments) away from direction of creep. Also make sure your scooe is not walking in the rings.

If recoil is a factor then look at a lighter bullet (150 gr). Many deer have met their fate at the receiving end of a 06 shooting 150gr projectiles.

Experiment with different ammo. Focus on fundamentals. Shoot. Shoot. And shoot some more.
 
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