7 mm SHERMAN SHORTMAG vs 7 SAUM

Been a lurker on this website for a while. I man in the process of putting together a build based of of my Model 7 that is currently .300 SAUM. I was going to build a 7 SAUM, but this thread has me rethinking that decision. I am going for a lightweight pack rifle. I am new to reloading. I started reloading 6 months ago for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I have 500+ pieces of .300 SAUM Remington brass to work with, so brass will not be an issue for me. My only apprehension with the 7 SS would be the fire forming. How much difficulty will this add for me as somebody new to reloading? I read earlier in the post that you sell dies and reamers; how do I go about purchasing these if I should decide on the 7 SS?

I appreciate any help, advice or recommendations!
 
Rich,
I would like to see more information on this caliber using a temp stable powder like H1000, if you have the time.
Thanks,
Jim
 
cell4soul said:
Been a lurker on this website for a while. I man in the process of putting together a build based of of my Model 7 that is currently .300 SAUM. I was going to build a 7 SAUM, but this thread has me rethinking that decision. I am going for a lightweight pack rifle. I am new to reloading. I started reloading 6 months ago for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I have 500+ pieces of .300 SAUM Remington brass to work with, so brass will not be an issue for me. My only apprehension with the 7 SS would be the fire forming. How much difficulty will this add for me as somebody new to reloading? I read earlier in the post that you sell dies and reamers; how do I go about purchasing these if I should decide on the 7 SS?

I appreciate any help, advice or recommendations!
Click to expand...

pm me and I can fill you in.............Rich
 
trueblue said:
Rich,
I would like to see more information on this caliber using a temp stable powder like H1000, if you have the time.
Thanks,
Jim
Click to expand...

Hi Jim. I don't know if anyone has used much h1000 in the 7 or not? I have had such good luck with the RL26 that I really have not played around too much. RL26 is proving to be quite temp stable too. I know for sure that the velocity would be less with H1000 but maybe not for a useable load? The SS case takes about 2 or 2.5 grs. less RL26 than H1000 for the same pressure...........Rich
 
Does the case have the capacity for H1000 or would it be to much of a compressed load?
I take it you have done temp stability on the RL26 then?
 
trueblue said:
Does the case have the capacity for H1000 or would it be to much of a compressed load?
I take it you have done temp stability on the RL26 then?
Click to expand...

It has enough capacity with the 180 or heavier bullets but probably not enough to reach max pressure. You MIGHT reach 3000'?
Yes, RL26 was tested by someone on the forum and it came out pretty darn good! I do not remember the exact data but it confirmed my "seat of the pants" testing....Rich
 
Elkaholic

This cartridge has me intrigued, sounds like a perfect Elk rifle shooting the 195gr Berger's. A couple questions I have.
1. How do I contact you to buy the reamer, brass and dies?
2. Will there head stamped brass in the future?

I plan on having Longrifles's Inc build it, I have couple of rifles from Chad and they absolute hammers.
 
BlackHillsSD said:
Elkaholic

This cartridge has me intrigued, sounds like a perfect Elk rifle shooting the 195gr Berger's. A couple questions I have.
1. How do I contact you to buy the reamer, brass and dies?
2. Will there head stamped brass in the future?

I plan on having Longrifles's Inc build it, I have couple of rifles from Chad and they absolute hammers.
Click to expand...

Send me a pm and I can get you started........Rich
 
BucksAndBulls said:
Rich has anybody tested the 195's and RL 26 for velocities yet? And would i have to buy new dies or could i just go to a .312 bushing in my 6.5 ss die?
Mike
Click to expand...

I ran the 195's at over 3000' with RL26 but it is probably best to run it a little under. The dies are usually bored about .020" over bore diameter so it would be REALLY close but you can bore it out .o2o" and then still run it .284 or .264. They are hardened but people do it all the time. Just reach down inside with some emery after and smooth the edge a little on the lower side..........Rich
 
elkaholic said:
I ran the 195's at over 3000' with RL26 but it is probably best to run it a little under. The dies are usually bored about .020" over bore diameter so it would be REALLY close but you can bore it out .o2o" and then still run it .284 or .264. They are hardened but people do it all the time. Just reach down inside with some emery after and smooth the edge a little on the lower side..........Rich
Click to expand...

What about the seater die Rich? TIA
Mike
 
elkaholic said:
I ran the 195's at over 3000' with RL26 but it is probably best to run it a little under. Rich
Click to expand...

Are you using a conventional throat design or some type of hybrid design??

Trying to figure out how you're getting these remarkable velocities some are claiming, yet no pressure.
 

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