26 Nosler Wildcats - 30 Nosler (308)

[Deleted member 46119]

I'm just curious if the 308-26 Nosler is something that can be easily fireformed from readily available 30 Nosler brass, but still be loaded using the same dies. That would be perfection! If all they did was push the shoulder back 0.050, that should an easy fire forming process and the dies would work with the wildcatted round easily.

I wouldn't do it.

I use 26-Nosler brass. Expand to 277, expand to 284, anneal, expand to 308 actual inside diameter. Neck turn just to skim as expanding is not perfect. Neck size to 304 actual inside diameter. Load and go. If I didn't already have enough 26-Nosler to last for a while, I'd just use 28-Nosler. Run it through the neck sizer to expand to 304 inside diameter and go.

If you use 30-Nosler brass you would have to expand to 338 then neck size down to 304 leaving a false shoulder. Then fire form, neck turn to even out any mess.

 

[wilkup]

When I say fireform, I'm thinking of just having the ability to purchase factory loaded ammo and shoot it in the modified chamber. My 6.5 Sherman was significantly different than the 280 Norma brass I resized the neck on before forming. It would seem this 30 Nosler to 30-26 N would be much simpler.
If not, reaming out the 28 to 30 isn't too tough either.

 

[Buttermilk]

Since the 30 Nosler case has the shoulder pushed back 0.050" , attempting to fire form the case would create a potentially dangerous situation. The case would likely be driven forward by the firing pin creating headspace issues that could easily result in a ruptured case head.

Absolutely the safest and best way is to neck up 26 or 28 Nosler brass.

When I say fireform, I'm thinking of just having the ability to purchase factory loaded ammo and shoot it in the modified chamber. My 6.5 Sherman was significantly different than the 280 Norma brass I resized the neck on before forming. It would seem this 30 Nosler to 30-26 N would be much simpler.
If not, reaming out the 28 to 30 isn't too tough either.

 

[longgunshooter]

I use 26-Nosler brass. Expand to 277, expand to 284, anneal, expand to 308 actual inside diameter. Neck turn just to skim as expanding is not perfect. Neck size to 304 actual inside diameter. Load and go.

Except the anneal step, this is exactly what I have been doing... (im on my fourth loading of my initial test batch of 25 pieces.)

 

[wilkup]

Since the 30 Nosler case has the shoulder pushed back 0.050" , attempting to fire form the case would create a potentially dangerous situation. The case would likely be driven forward by the firing pin creating headspace issues that could easily result in a ruptured case head.

Absolutely the safest and best way is to neck up 26 or 28 Nosler brass.

Yikes! I didn't think about the head spacing issue. Good call! That has the potential to be a very unpleasant experience.
28 Nosler brass it is

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Yikes! I didn't think about the head spacing issue. Good call! That has the potential to be a very unpleasant experience.
28 Nosler brass it is

That's why we discuss these things.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Except the anneal step, this is exactly what I have been doing... (im on my fourth loading of my initial test batch of 25 pieces.)

Probably just "worry". Since I have an annealer, I did.

 

[longgunshooter]

Probably just "worry". Since I have an annealer, I did.

Probably... To be honest, I never have been sold enough on the whole anneal thing to actually do it, but the higher pressures i read of in some pro annealing articles about non annealed cases do have me somewhat concerned and really inspecting cases for anything "off/different" looking. With those higher pressures, wont i see a difference in bolt throw after the shot. ie: sticking bolt?

... i don't mean to get this thread off on a tangent but since i have your "ear" i thought id ask ...

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Probably... To be honest, I never have been sold enough on the whole anneal thing to actually do it, but the higher pressures i read of in some pro annealing articles about non annealed cases do have me somewhat concerned and really inspecting cases for anything "off/different" looking. With those higher pressures, wont i see a difference in bolt throw after the shot. ie: sticking bolt?

... i don't mean to get this thread off on a tangent but since i have your "ear" i thought id ask ...

Annealed vs. non-annealed.

There is a definite difference. When sizing up cases, if I don't anneal each pass gets harder and harder as the brass work hardens. Going from 264 to 308 is the "probably" part. It may not be "necessary", however, there is a definite difference. The next step up to .323 without annealing at some point did cost me some cases that crushed instead of expanded.

Annealing does work to remove work hardening and ease case forming/expanding.

I was working on making some WSSM from WSM cases. That requires annealing half the case or it will just buckle.

A case will harden with use (physics). As it hardens the "yield' and "spring back" points will change (physics). This will change the pressure reaction in the powder burn phase of firing (physics). Annealing the neck after firing will "restore" the "yield" and "spring back" a very important part of the "bullet release" phase of the firing process. It is real, it does work.

 

[longgunshooter]

Thank you for the reply.

 

[longgunshooter]

Anything new in the 30-26 Nosler world to report?

With the weather changing, I hope to get out soon and test some 227Gr Hammers through mine.

 

[Deleted member 46119]

Anything new in the 30-26 Nosler world to report?

With the weather changing, I hope to get out soon and test some 227Gr Hammers through mine.

I haven't shot mine in quite a while. I got some Hammers to try but was working on bigger stuff or older stuff for a while.

 

[Ua26fitter]

I dropped off some more cash at the Smith today for my 30-28 Nosler. He happen to have a pile 300 Rum Bertram brass that I grabbed as I'll be forming my own brass for this gun rather than buying Nosler. Should have a barrelled action and trigger soon.
I still haven't decided on a stock but I'm getting close.

I'll be calling around to find forming dies and loading dies this week.

Kris

 

[longgunshooter]

Over the weekend I tested some 181 Hammer Hunters with great results. Three four shot groups that printed really well. All seated to just fit the mag (Rem 700 long) 26 Nosler Brass necked up. Pressure signs were minimal but enough to tell me 83 is likely where I should stay.

82gr H1000 shots 2-3 1-4 were touching for a group size of just under .7
3177
3172
3178
3168 10

83 all one ragged bug hole, slight vert string right at .55
3212
3180
3208
3210 38

84 2-4 were basically one hole, 3 was .3 under 2 & 4 and I pulled 1 nearly a full inch up and right. Primer's just starting to crater, easy blot lift.
3244
3239
3237
3244 7

85 blew out to over an inch with cratering starting to form more to my Un-liking, bolt still easy to lift.
86 two shots in to this grain weight and I was much the same as 85 but the bolt lift was noticeably firm. Time to stop...

Ill try and post pics later.