25 prc issue

[L.Sherm]

If torqueing action screws make a difference on how it shoots you DON'T have stress free bedding.

 

[FEENIX]

B lot is sending me some 133s and 131s. Hopefully it doesn't prefer 131s lol.
I was just looking at the 145s, any experience?

I will start my load development on my .257 WBY next month when it is a tad cooler.

 

[Pat Byrne]

unless the bullet isn't stabilizing, wrong twist, I doubt it's your loads or loading technique.. Something is wrong with the rifle or scope..
That is if your loads aren't off the chart, extreme pressure..

 

[25WSM]

When they shoot that bad I go straight to the bedding and barrel clearance. And then to the scope. A crap shot out barrel can still shoot great. I put a smokeless Muzzleloder barrel on that had zero rifling and it key holed groups about 2 inches at 100 yards. Amazing that a custom barrel company sent out a barrel with no rifling. I didn't look because the way I put them on doesn't require me to see inside. For some reason the last 5 I built I looked for rifling before machining them. But definitely change the scope out for a known good scope and check the bedding.

 

[Chris Montana]

Maybe change scopes? Mounts? Jam the bullets? Bedding? I'm not a big fan of .257, prefer .284 and .308...more choice of bullets. In you have a long throat, it might want to shoot RNs- they're hard to find.

 

[Mcranch]

When they shoot that bad I go straight to the bedding and barrel clearance. And then to the scope. A crap shot out barrel can still shoot great. I put a smokeless Muzzleloder barrel on that had zero rifling and it key holed groups about 2 inches at 100 yards. Amazing that a custom barrel company sent out a barrel with no rifling. I didn't look because the way I put them on doesn't require me to see inside. For some reason the last 5 I built I looked for rifling before machining them. But definitely change the scope out for a known good scope and check the bedding.

Talk to the barrel company after you run several different bullets and seating depths. Might have them re-gauge and check where muzzle face meets the action since this is a prefit. Ask Origin for a barrel thread schematic and toque specs?

 

[Rflshootr]

First I'd pull it out of the stock and make sure you didn't get any debris under the action or in the lug mortise. Check the clearance around the trigger to assure it isn't touching. Then look at the bolt handle to make sure it isn't touching anything. Check to be sure your front scope base screw isn't contacting the barrel threads. Clean everything and reassemble. Then I'd shoot it and look at the pattern on the crown to see if it's right.

 

[Mike Matteson]

You are use a .264 caliber. ID would be .263 for .002" neck tension. (Watch for spring back) What is your neck thickness? Or OD of neck sized after sized, and mandrel used?. As stated above I would be looking how the action is bedded, Scope mounted, is the barrel is clearances or floated. After that it's trying difference combinations of components. bullets, powder, primers. Ladder tests.

 

[MoaFlat]

Have you bore scoped front end? Suspect that copper fouling might be the culprit on most new, yet broken in barrel. Just a few shots MVs over 3000 FPS can copper up much more than you can imagine on new barrel. I would mild patch pressure lap barrel with JB Bore Bright about 10 strokes clean out, then finish up clean out with Bore Tech Chameleon 2-3 x, then clean patch several strokes until smooth pass achieved. Again mild mid-range patch tension. Finish up with patch of good quality light amount of bore oil (such as Hoppes #9) leave sit wet few minutes - then dry patch clean out. If this shows reasonably better group improvement then you're on the right path. Might need to do this a few more times to achieve continuous good groups…then when and if you reach expectation go to a maintenance routine with Bore Tech Chameleon or like then every 200/300 rounds or go to JB for light touch up. You'll find over time with a good regimen of JB and Chameleon (or the like cleaners) for new bores that will foul significantly less and less over time.

 

[Pat Byrne]

Copper could be the culprit. Also, check to see that the barrel is not loose..

 

[Roperboy87]

I found jumping my bullet seem to work really well over jamming them

 

[pupdistress]

I saw a preferred blank in a bore scope once and it looked like it would take a long break in.

 

[SSG Graybush]

I'm running a Sinclair mandrel to set neck tension at .002 so bushing change isn't going to change anything. I did do a seating depth test and from .002 off to .090 off nothing shot under 2". I've run a powder work up too..h1k I couldn't get anything with a decent ES/SD. N565 had a ES of 4 FPS over 6 rounds. But still 2" group. Only other bullet to really try is the 133 bergers as it's a 7 twist and will be spinning the lighter stuff at some crazy rpm's lol. And hammers are not the best for what this rifles built for. It's built for nrl hunter. I've checked every screw on it and pulled the barrel to check everything too.

If its a new scope, try a known good one.

 

[lancetkenyon]

You are use a .264 caliber. ID would be .263 for .002" neck tension. (Watch for spring back) What is your neck thickness? Or OD of neck sized after sized, and mandrel used?. As stated above I would be looking how the action is bedded, Scope mounted, is the barrel is clearances or floated. After that it's trying difference combinations of components. bullets, powder, primers. Ladder tests.

If he uses a bushing for .263 ID, that is probably his problem....since this is a 25 PRC....