how does the 40degree shoulder reduce trimming? Do you neck size or full size with light shoulder bump?
25-06 Ackley Improved velocities
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This would be correct
wyomingboy
Member
I wouldn't waste your time rechambering a 25-06 to an Improved version, like AI or Gibbs improved. I had my 25-06 Ruger with a 24" barrel reamed out to 25 Gibbs back in 94 and I could only achieve about 50 to 100fps improvements in velocity with loads that were too hot with over pressure signs & blown primers. Case life was just a few rounds, with splits and blown primers.
Now I have to fire form all my brass and I really didn't achieve any good results. I can't use factory loads and I have to make everything. I'm regretting it now.
You can easily shoot the 25-06 to 500 yards that way it is. Get a Weatherby if you want more velocity or a 25 Creedmore if you want to use the higher BC bullets. Where I live it costs $900 to rebarrel my rifle, so I might as well just buy a new Ruger American instead of replacing my barrel. just my opinion.
Now I have to fire form all my brass and I really didn't achieve any good results. I can't use factory loads and I have to make everything. I'm regretting it now.
You can easily shoot the 25-06 to 500 yards that way it is. Get a Weatherby if you want more velocity or a 25 Creedmore if you want to use the higher BC bullets. Where I live it costs $900 to rebarrel my rifle, so I might as well just buy a new Ruger American instead of replacing my barrel. just my opinion.
Whats the difference between a Gibbs and the AI?
Its more than just hitting the target, thats the easy part. I want to hit the target at or above the terminal velocity of the projectile. 1800fps for Hammers, or at least 2000fps for Barnes TTSX. Plus the option of heavier projectiles gives me more options for all big game.
The standard 2506 really starts to drop off thst terminal velocity around 400yds. I can, and have, work with it but im here now at a crossroad getting a new barrel.... Meeting with the gunsmith tomorrow so I need to decide.
Its more than just hitting the target, thats the easy part. I want to hit the target at or above the terminal velocity of the projectile. 1800fps for Hammers, or at least 2000fps for Barnes TTSX. Plus the option of heavier projectiles gives me more options for all big game.
The standard 2506 really starts to drop off thst terminal velocity around 400yds. I can, and have, work with it but im here now at a crossroad getting a new barrel.... Meeting with the gunsmith tomorrow so I need to decide.
KS2506
Well-Known Member
Got my first 25-06 in 1966. Tried all the different bullets. 75, 87, 90's for varmints. 100, 115, 117, 120's for deer and antelope. Finally settled on 100's for everything. Tried all the brands of bullets. Settled on Sierra 110 gr. BT's. Now days, use Nosler 100 gr BT's or Barnes Tipped. Killed over 40 deer and over 20 goats. Lost track of prairie dogs, and yotes. You will have no problem killing a deer over 500 yards. There is no deer that a 100 gr. bullet will not kill DRT. For elk, I always used a 300 Win Mag, or a 338 Mag.
The Gibbs has a 35 degree shoulder angle while the AI has 40. The Gibbs has a much shorter neck. I have a .30 Gibbs and it propels the 190 Berger VLD at 2806 FPS with room to spare using RL17.
I have a 243AI, a 250AI, a 25:05AI, a 240 Gibbs, and a 6.5 Gibbs and I haven't had the difficulties that wyomingboy referred to; split cases and blown primers. MV increase has varied, but whether significant or not, the reloading was always easier. (And I like the looks of the reshaped case). That may not be adequate for some, but it works for me, and I'm the only one I have to please. Happy shooting!
RUFFIAN R - NY
Well-Known Member
When I started out-there was no 25-06 brass, Went with Military Match 06 brass still have some and using it still , will need to switch over to 25-06 headstamp brass soon my old stuff is going fast. Then I'll need to start over to find a good AI load with commercial brass. Have to keep up with you younger guy's. Have to agree with Gibbshooter , but am with Parker A , and love all of my AI's
131 Blackjack's are coasting at 3070 from my 1:7.5 Bartlein, 23" bbl, AI. Went over 3200 (Ramshot Magnum) with no real pressure, but no need to push with that bullet, so stuck to the best accuracy and consistency. I haven't had a chance to try other bullets or powders yet, but have some of the Berger 133's and a couple of different powder options ready, just need time.
Standard .25-06 was my first centerfire rifle, and I've owned one ever since. My opinion the AI is worth it if you are building, especially with the heavy / high bc bullets. A factory rifle in the standard case will do just fine for a lot of things though.
Oh, and 1/2 minute or less 3 shot groups at 600 consistently, and that's out of a relatively light rifle.
Standard .25-06 was my first centerfire rifle, and I've owned one ever since. My opinion the AI is worth it if you are building, especially with the heavy / high bc bullets. A factory rifle in the standard case will do just fine for a lot of things though.
Oh, and 1/2 minute or less 3 shot groups at 600 consistently, and that's out of a relatively light rifle.
This has been a helpful thread. So far for my needs I have not read any compelling evidence to stay with the original chamber. The extra performance seems slight but significant enough to make the rifle more versatile.
My question now is learning to reload for it. Is there any specs on the case dimensions such as from saami? Do you trim the case to the same length as the standard case?
Also, depending on the barrel and gunsmiths lead time if I dont have time to develop a load befor deer season (oct) can I zero and hunt with factory ammo? I know you can shoot it but I dont know if all that case fireforming reduces accuracy enough to make a difference?
My question now is learning to reload for it. Is there any specs on the case dimensions such as from saami? Do you trim the case to the same length as the standard case?
Also, depending on the barrel and gunsmiths lead time if I dont have time to develop a load befor deer season (oct) can I zero and hunt with factory ammo? I know you can shoot it but I dont know if all that case fireforming reduces accuracy enough to make a difference?
And I might add, that if fire forming is an obstacle, I have purchased AI and Gibbs brass from Quality Cartridge in the past. I don't know if they are still doing those cases. They may not be the "best" in some eyes but they've held up well for me because I don't try to wring every FPS out of them. I find an accurate load without pressure signs and then shoot it.
One of my concerns is not finding dies and brass in todays shortage.
It took me a year just to buy all the different reloading components, and I still had to buy my primers from a private party...
Another reason why im asking if its possible to hunt with standard factory ammo until I get the components I would need to reload AI. ?
Fire forming to .30 Gibbs is a breeze using .35 Whelen, .270 Win, and .280 Rem brass. Also, Qual Cart makes head-stamped .25 Gibbs.
