Rebarrel Remington 700 BDL?

I bought this rifle in the 70's and have used it to shoot a lot of animals. It's a .270 Win. and I believe is a 1:10 twist. It still shoots into an inch at 100 but I'm thinking about rebarreling to get a threaded barrel for a suppressor. I mainly use it for Pronghorn, deer, coyote, hog, and perhaps Black bear. Spot and Stalk is my main hunting method but I also do some stand hunting. I shoot a lot of 130 and 140 grain bullets (Nosler Ballistic Tips, Partitions, Accubonds, Sierra Game Kings, Hornady Interlocks, etc.)

What twist rate would you all recommend?
What barrel length?
What make?
How much?

Thanks,
Dave

Dave.
That's a Scary rabbit hole you're standing on the edge of!!
Price everything out ahead of time for sure. It's hard not to just keep adding options. It's always slightly surprising how much the grand total was in the end
My last bart barrel was $550 plus the blank to have it chambered, threaded, and shipped.

10 twist is all you need to shoot the bullets mentioned.
Length, everyone has their favorite, for me with a 270. min. 22" I like 26, but if you are thinking a can, 20 - 22".
Barrel. I would thread the one that's on your rifle and if you don't like the length with a can you will know what length you want.
Barrel manufacturer- flip a coin. I'm not a fan of carbon fiber. A lot of money just for Looks. Hope this helps.

The .270 Win at 65K pressure has a governor on it. The 700LA will give you 3.67" maximum magazine COAL capacity and would be shame not to take advantage of it. Going to slightly faster twist (1:8) will not affect shooting the bullets you mentioned but does increase bullet flexibility and opens the door to shoot longer heavier monos. It also opens up for bullets like 170EOL, 165ABLR, 156HH. 117H etc. You can add freebore that let you shoot all bullets better by allowing seating the bullet out further gaining case capacity = more potential velocity. Going this route actually improves its performance for shorter barrel options. I would think 22" would give you decent velocity with a can which is why I would maximize the magazine COAL capacity to squeeze the juice out of the .270 Win. The 117HH would still be rocket out of 22" barrel. I am shooting it 3470 out of 24" barrel in old Savage 110 I rebarreled.

Swapping barrel out is great time to step back and maximize the cartridge's performance.

My BDL in .270 shot lights out groups even after over 40 years of shooting it. But when a "smith" looked inside with a bore scope, he said the first 6 inches if the bore was severely heat cracked. Before you do anything, be certain the existing barrel is truly OK.
Personally, why change what works? I'd stay with the same twist and length.

If it still shoots 1 MOA, I wouldn't worry about the heat cracks. Had a friend who shot his rifle with an apparent icing issue and buldged the barrel about halfway to the muzzle. Still shot well so he never changed it.

Stress cracks in my 300 Wby bbl on a Rem 700 that developed after 100 rounds factory ammo opened up the groups to
4-1/2". It previously shot 180gr into 1-1/4". Obviously, I changed the barrel out. A Douglas Premium bbl got me back to 1 MOA.

Replace a barrel only when it stops shooting well. Simple. It can be cut and threaded a lot cheaper than the cost of a new barrel. A new barrel is always a crapshoot anyway.

I've got a stainless 9 twist Benchmark 277 blank that would be perfect for what you're doing and will be selling. Let me know if interested. Can be finished anything 26" and under. $330 plus shipping

RowdyYates said:

I bought this rifle in the 70's and have used it to shoot a lot of animals. It's a .270 Win. and I believe is a 1:10 twist. It still shoots into an inch at 100 but I'm thinking about rebarreling to get a threaded barrel for a suppressor. I mainly use it for Pronghorn, deer, coyote, hog, and perhaps Black bear. Spot and Stalk is my main hunting method but I also do some stand hunting. I shoot a lot of 130 and 140 grain bullets (Nosler Ballistic Tips, Partitions, Accubonds, Sierra Game Kings, Hornady Interlocks, etc.)

What twist rate would you all recommend?
What barrel length?
What make?
How much?

Thanks,
Dave

Click to expand...

If it still meets your hunting needs, your easy button is to have the muzzle threaded to mate with your suppressor. Depending on where you are or who does it, this could cost $125 and up.

As far as re-barreling, YMMV based on your barrel choices.

What twist rate would you all recommend? While 1:10" meets your current bullet choices, it does not allow you to explore other avenues and take advantage of different bullet offerings. Most bullets you listed would probably say 1:10" or faster for twist recommendation. My .270 AI is 1:8" and propels the 165/175 Matrix VLDs.

What barrel length? If you like the current barrel's length, subtract the length of your suppressor to attain the required/desired length. Make sure you follow the recommended contour for a suppressor.

What make? You have no shortage of excellent choices. I went with Lilja 3G sendero contour.

How much? This depends on the barrel material: chrome, SS, or carbon-wrapped. These days, most go with pre-fits to cut down the cost of re-barreling.

Good luck!

I have had many rifles re-barreled and the most consistent performance I have gotten is from Douglas. Everyone (count is 6) has shot sub 3/4 MOA with minimal load development.

Capt Nag said:

My BDL in .270 shot lights out groups even after over 40 years of shooting it. But when a "smith" looked inside with a bore scope, he said the first 6 inches if the bore was severely heat cracked. Before you do anything, be certain the existing barrel is truly OK.
Personally, why change what works? I'd stay with the same twist and length.

Click to expand...

Mom's .270's throat looks like alligator skin. Shoots way under 1/2 inch 5 shot groups. I suppose when it does give up I wont be able to hit the barn.

This is so interesting. Think about it.....all these heat checked barrels and still they shoot well. Have we all been scammed into replacing barrels that really don't need it? Food for thought.

Capt Nag said:

This is so interesting. Think about it.....all these heat checked barrels and still they shoot well. Have we all been scammed into replacing barrels that really don't need it? Food for thought.

Click to expand...

I also have some barrels that are really pitted from either neglect or corrosive ammo or both. Most are ok to very good, 1 in particular, a 1937 model 70 that shoots under an inch, If you don't clean it very well. Lets be honest here, bullets are so good nowadays, well at least to shoot paper, that I'm beginning to believe it doesn't matter much. I bet that mom's .270 has over 5k down it and I actually feel it might be closer to 10 k. It sure didn't come into the family new and it was my main centerfire for several years in which time I know I put 1000 a year or more down her. Most full power 130's in front of 56 grains of IMR 4350. Of course since a .270 only has a barrel life of 1500 rounds or so maybe it's so inaccurate it just accidentally hits the same hole. Seriously I think I've seen very few barrels shot out on a bolt rifle anyway.

I really appreciate all of the great advice and information I got from you all! I keep thinking about it but do find it very hard to replace a barrel that still shoots.
Thanks to all of you and the depth of knowledge coming back in these replies doesn't surprise me at all and is exactly what I expected.
Happy Thanksgiving and God bless you all!