Need a broadhead for elk

MOA or bust said:

G5 Montec
As I've gotten older I've had to turn my bow down to 55# draw weight. I used the G5 fixed blade and had a pass through on broadside shot 2 years ago. If you can shootem' straight, I would recommend fixed broadheads for elk.

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Great Bull and Great Shot!

I'll give another vote for Thunderheads. I used to shoot 3 blade Muzzys and found that the THs fly better. They're sharp, strong, and apparently well balanced. I shoot about 460 gr of arrow weight from a Hoyt Nitrum Turbo at 76 lbs. I put one through a bull from his chest/shoulder crease to his hind quarter (heart too) with no visible damage to it. I'd say my bow is tuned well but I've never had POI shift from field points on Easton Injexion 330s. I also stocked up because you can't find all that too easy anymore. My experience with flight on fixed heads has never pushed me to explore mechanicals, one more variable.

Any broad head in the heart will get it done. The little fixed blade hole say far back "liver" "one lung diaphragm" on these less than perfect hits I would much rather have the big slice effect from a rage two blade. The wounds are more devastating and less likely to get plugged with fat or debris. No one plans on a less than perfect hit, but it happens. If you have seen the wounds from a 1" to 1 1/4 fixed blade compared to a swept blade slip cam two blade broadhead the mechanical wound is far more devastating. Just my experience over 50 years of bow hunting.

dfanonymous said:

I use with great success fixed broadheads.

Out of 100 stalks I say a 1/3 end up being longer shots. I haven't had any problems as I tune the arrow to the bow.

That said, I subscribe to the two holes theory. For that reason I use single bevels. This year I'm trying out tooth of the arrow. Only taken a mile deer this far.

Prior I've used iron wills, works great. Tuffheads, ozcut are good too.

The key is tuning the arrow to the bow.
Starting with the proper spine for the set up, the arrow weight, arrow profile ( I use 4mms), helical fletched etc. I match the weight to what speeds I'm looking to get, and look for the speeds I need to at certain distances that I find while out hunting.

There's more than just the broadhead at play.

Another tuning tip is make sure the vanes are bigger than the broadhead they are suppose to steer. I personally use smaller vanes, but I use a right helical and go with smaller profile broadheads. I'm looking for pass throughs. Larger cut broadheads CAN have a harder time with penetration. Especially for elk and even more so at distance.

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I fletch shafts to align with my fixed blades, not sure if there's any aero science that supports it but it made me think there would be less disruption. Helical blazers and thunderheads fly great. Has this ever been tested to see if it's a thing?

L2land said:

I fletch shafts to align with my fixed blades, not sure if there's any aero science that supports it but it made me think there would be less disruption. Helical blazers and thunderheads fly great. Has this ever been tested to see if it's a thing?

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I think arrow shaft clocking to locate the stiffest spine of the shaft and that orientation is more important than vane location. Bare shaft tuning will support this. When you can tune your arrow and bow to shoot your bare shaft arrow with a broadhead to enter the target straight and consistently with your field points, your are there.

L2land said:

I fletch shafts to align with my fixed blades, not sure if there's any aero science that supports it but it made me think there would be less disruption. Helical blazers and thunderheads fly great. Has this ever been tested to see if it's a thing?

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I straddle the broadhead blades,in my mind I want maximum airflow over the vanes. A lot of people align them. One thing for sure,I never remove a broadhead once I test it. I'll replace blades,then it goes right back on the same arrow it came off. I group test all arrows with broadhead attached. Then replace blades before hunting.

L2land said:

I fletch shafts to align with my fixed blades, not sure if there's any aero science that supports it but it made me think there would be less disruption. Helical blazers and thunderheads fly great. Has this ever been tested to see if it's a thing?

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Yes. The spinning of the insert was found to be most important so the insert is seated square in the shaft. Spinning arrows are hard to get them all lined up.

So if everything is tuned well and insert is square and broadhead sound perfect it doesn't matter.

nwmnbowhunter said:

Yes. The spinning of the insert was found to be most important so the insert is seated square in the shaft. Spinning arrows are hard to get them all lined up.

So if everything is tuned well and insert is square and broadhead sound perfect it doesn't matter.

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Makes sense. I have always been happy with arrow flight on Easton 4mm. They aren't the toughest but they fly good. Hit a rock hunting prairie dogs with them and they're toast though.

Critter Picker said:

I straddle the broadhead blades,in my mind I want maximum airflow over the vanes. A lot of people align them. One thing for sure,I never remove a broadhead once I test it. I'll replace blades,then it goes right back on the same arrow it came off. I group test all arrows with broadhead attached. Then replace blades before hunting.

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I like to bare shaft nock tune my arrows before I fletch them. I use hot melt glue for the inserts. If for some reason a broadhead does not spintest straight I warm the end of the shaft and rotate the Broadhead until it spins straight. Worst case having to turn the nock to bring the arrow into the group, If you spine check your arrows first you will usually find the non grouping arrow to have a different spine the the rest. This can be a deep rabbit hole for the casual archer. You will need a bow press and a draw board a spine tester arrow spinner and the desire to do/learn it, or an exceptional archery pro shop, and of course top quality equipment. It is no different than working to get the best out of a rifle. And just like long range firearm shooting this is just scratching the surface. It all depend on the individuals desire this lever of performance, it is not for everyone and not necessary to enjoy the sport. I enjoy the learning curve and achieving better and better results.

Allen Lone wolf said:

Animals have been killed for thousands of years with 2 blade fixed broadheads. I use 2 blade Zwickey broadheads from a Black Widow recurve. I've killed whitetail deer from 5 yds. to 38 yds.just my 2 pennies. Right side wall is a few of the results....very few. Been shooting a recurve since the age of 10 and will be 70 next month.

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Nice TV.

JAYgs8163 said:

Nice TV.

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Thank you sir.

The best all-around broadhead I've found is the Thunderheads. I put one through the shoulder blade of an elk and into the spine far enough to sever the cord (he moved on the shot). I'm a believer in heavy arrows.

YMMV but the few years I shot mechanicals I was really disappointed.

QAD exodus , Muzzy Trocar, Slick Tricks, Wasp, magnus…. All good heads. Just get your bow in tune and practice, practice, practice…good luck

A bit late to be changing too much IMHO. What was not shared was the spine of the arrow. Also what was not shared was your level of confidence shooting at what distance. What would be your self imposed shot distance limit?

Working with what you are used to shooting I would prefer to see you shooting a cut on contact fixed blade with structural integrity. Magnus has a strong reputation & would be a top choice for me if I was working with your light arrow.

If you insist on shooting a mechanical I would strive to keep the cut diameter down in the 1 3/8 range. Large cut diameters increase the risk of a structural integrity failure. If your hunt goes wrong I would really hate to experience the reason being that your broad head failed. It happens more than we care to see.

While I would like to see a broad head heavier than 100 grains I expect this would change your tune & require a stiffer arrow & sight would be requiring a considerable adjustment.

To work with what you have I would pick two options & order or pick up your choice of the Magnus offerings & a quality small cut diameter mechanical & see what flys well for you. If the both shoot well I would favor the fixed blade 10 times out of 10. Though accuracy rules. I really wish I knew your bow was tuned well & would shoot fixed blades & mechanicals to nearly the exact point of impact. Too many un knowing & the last minute situation makes me uncomfortable, to tell the truth.

If the cost of Iron will is in your budget They may be the EZ button. I would have great confidence in the quality of this offering.