Why I Crimp

I know this is going to start the age old battle of crimp or not to crimp and that's not what I'm trying to do so I'm stating "This is why I crimp", This is my opinion so take it for that, I'm just sharing my personal experience and what works for me I am not a competition shooter nor do I claim to be Just a LRH . This is the second time this has happened to me in the past thirty years, the first was an Elk hunt in Oregon where I mailed my rifle and ammo out and then spent a week Horseback and the second time was yesterday, I will tell you that I do not abuse my guns, with that being said I use them for what they are intended for and I do not own anything that hasn't been "Well Used" No safe queens here, Now why I crimp, My Coyote Rig is a Rem 700 in 270 with 90 gr Sierra's, I loaded some rounds last month and got sidetracked and didn't crimp ( I use the Lee FCD on everything I load ) 10 rounds, I just let it go cause I wanted to get in the woods,these were loaded into a 5 rd Magazine two weeks ago, i hunt every evening an twice a day on the weekends 2 to 3 sets a trip and last Saturday my gun slipped off of my shoulder and landed on the Butt stock in a field and didn't hurt anything, fast forward to last night, I shot a ground hog ejected and chambered a new round and while unloading the weapon i saw the bullet in the second round in the mag was gone, upon examination I found the bullet had fell back in to the case, as i said this is the second time this has happened to me and why " I crimp" As for a side note this was 3X fired brass annealed, trimmed and FL resized every loading with a measured .0023 neck tension
Just a question, I have been handloading for years and only crimp pistol bullets. I guess I have learned many new things over the years but wouldn't this affect your neck tension?
 
Just a question, I have been handloading for years and only crimp pistol bullets. I guess I have learned many new things over the years but wouldn't this affect your neck tension?

I would think that it would, but it seems that it affects it positively. The general idea I get from all I've read here is that it makes it more uniform from shot to shot, and improves SD & ES. I haven't tried it yet, but fully intend to.
 
Since this thread started I have conducted a little test,maybe not the greatest test but it told me something.
Since I cast and coat my own pistol bullets I have a Cabin Tree Hardness tester.I took a new winchester 300 win mag case and put the tester on the neck and checked hardness all around the neck and found that Winchester brass was the worst with numbers I got.
I ran the needle point in the brass neck 7 times around the neck and got 2,4, 7,2,6,1,4 hardness on the Brinell hardness scale.
I know it's not what some would do and may mean nothing but it showed me neck tension/neck interference is affected by non consistent tensile strength of the neck.I tried Remington unfired brass and it was a bit better but the Norma brass was the closest to perfection at 4,5,4,4,4,3,4 which showed me neck tension or neck interference is much better than cheaper brass and is better with better materials.
This may not be the best way to check neck wall thickness but I found the results I figured I would find and I am happy with the results.
Will I keep crimping my magnum loads?I will retest loaded rounds in the magazine and see if they recede even a little but I get great groups with crimping on magnum rifles and will most likely never change that but I only crimp lightly with a quality case.
I ruined 3 cases for the cause,1winchester 300 win mag cases and 1 norma/weatherby 300 weatherby mag and 1 Remington Peters 300 win mag.
So does that sound like a viable test?Viable results?There are folks smarter than me so let me hear it guys.
Old Rooster
 
Since this thread started I have conducted a little test,maybe not the greatest test but it told me something.
Since I cast and coat my own pistol bullets I have a Cabin Tree Hardness tester.I took a new winchester 300 win mag case and put the tester on the neck and checked hardness all around the neck and found that Winchester brass was the worst with numbers I got.
I ran the needle point in the brass neck 7 times around the neck and got 2,4, 7,2,6,1,4 hardness on the Brinell hardness scale.
I know it's not what some would do and may mean nothing but it showed me neck tension/neck interference is affected by non consistent tensile strength of the neck.I tried Remington unfired brass and it was a bit better but the Norma brass was the closest to perfection at 4,5,4,4,4,3,4 which showed me neck tension or neck interference is much better than cheaper brass and is better with better materials.
This may not be the best way to check neck wall thickness but I found the results I figured I would find and I am happy with the results.
Will I keep crimping my magnum loads?I will retest loaded rounds in the magazine and see if they recede even a little but I get great groups with crimping on magnum rifles and will most likely never change that but I only crimp lightly with a quality case.
I ruined 3 cases for the cause,1winchester 300 win mag cases and 1 norma/weatherby 300 weatherby mag and 1 Remington Peters 300 win mag.
So does that sound like a viable test?Viable results?There are folks smarter than me so let me hear it guys.
Old Rooster
I wonder if annealing the neck brfore testing for hardness would change the results for the better?
 
Since this thread started I have conducted a little test,maybe not the greatest test but it told me something.
Since I cast and coat my own pistol bullets I have a Cabin Tree Hardness tester.I took a new winchester 300 win mag case and put the tester on the neck and checked hardness all around the neck and found that Winchester brass was the worst with numbers I got.
I ran the needle point in the brass neck 7 times around the neck and got 2,4, 7,2,6,1,4 hardness on the Brinell hardness scale.
I know it's not what some would do and may mean nothing but it showed me neck tension/neck interference is affected by non consistent tensile strength of the neck.I tried Remington unfired brass and it was a bit better but the Norma brass was the closest to perfection at 4,5,4,4,4,3,4 which showed me neck tension or neck interference is much better than cheaper brass and is better with better materials.
This may not be the best way to check neck wall thickness but I found the results I figured I would find and I am happy with the results.
Will I keep crimping my magnum loads?I will retest loaded rounds in the magazine and see if they recede even a little but I get great groups with crimping on magnum rifles and will most likely never change that but I only crimp lightly with a quality case.
I ruined 3 cases for the cause,1winchester 300 win mag cases and 1 norma/weatherby 300 weatherby mag and 1 Remington Peters 300 win mag.
So does that sound like a viable test?Viable results?There are folks smarter than me so let me hear it guys.
Old Rooster
I've found that it is very easy to over-crimp cast boolits for my 44 Mag resulting in effective down-sizing. With the Lee FCD, a light crimp results in better accuracy in that handgun. Currently using RP brass but have a bunch of WW Super
 
Look what came today
 

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asd9055 looks your set up for a while.Good find.

Laguna freak I agree on light crimp on all pistol brass but I don't cast and shoot for any rifle except the 45-70.I tried that years ago and got performance issues to the poingt that I stopped all rifle bullet casting.I only cast for pistols and fishing weights.
I believe you are correct that a heavy crimp distorts the case mouth and does more harm that good so I crimp as light as I can and test if the bullet recedes in the case by leaving one round in the magazine and fire several rounds but leave the last round in and if I get any movement I adjust my FCD a little tighter and retest until I get zero movement and that's my stopping point.
I wish the die had numbers on it so I would have a reference point but thats ok as my notes are light crimp,medium crimp and light hard crimp and then hard crimp but the only hard crimp I have ever used is on a 45-70 with 465 gr bullets.
 
That would be a valid reason to crimp! Some rifles respond favorably to a crimp, some do not. I have started checking if a crimp helps to improve accuracy and/or SD as a step in the process of developing a new load.
Sounds as if it's Worth trying now I'm at page 17
In over 30 years of reloading I have never crimped my rifle bullets, except the the 5.56 in my AR. None of of the rounds that I have reloaded have ever had a bullet move in the case. I have always crimped pistol loads. Now you all have me thinking I should try the LEE factory crimp die to try to get a more even release.
That's what they say, I'm gonna get one
How are you Red ? if you do run them over a chrony you'll see that your ES and SD will have tightened up with the crimped loads, I hope all is well with you and yours
Yeah, I'm having trouble with ES on a new rifle. Never had that problem before I had a chronograph🤔
But I'm always trying to learn and improve.
I'm very intriged reading all of this. Very thought provoking. Now I have something else to shop for...if I can find one.
Same,

Im gonna try, my ES for my new rifle seemed high and taking all things into account I think neck tension is the culprit. I know this is not neck tension as such but it seems to have a similar affect making the tension consistent and I won't have to jam on the lands. Not desirable in a hunting rifle.
 

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