Zero at 100 Yards and Leave Turret at 200 Yards for Hunting?

General RE LEE

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Does anyone zero at 100 yards but set their turret for 200 yard shot or MPBR and just hold on vitals out to a max range for simplicity? I can see how a 100 yard zero is convenient and with an elevation turret leaving it set on 1.75 MOA for example when hunting so it's an easy viral hold out to 250 yards or so. Anything further can be dialed.
 
In many hunting scenarios the extra time to adjust the turret might have the animal moving out of view. IMO it is best to consider a useful trajectory by having the rifle's point of impact at 100 yards an inch high or more.

A few examples:

Muzzleloader 1" high at 100 is 5" low at 200. Perfect for elk where I hunt
257 weatherby 3.1" high at 100, dead on at 400, 8" low at 500 perfect for coues wt where shots are rarely closer than 300 yds.
My varmint rig a 6mm-284 shoots the 55 gr nosler bt @ 4100. I set this one up .8" high at 100, 5" low at 350. See a coyote while walking just point and shoot.

Why twist a turret while hunting unless you have to?
 
Does anyone zero at 100 yards but set their turret for 200 yard shot or MPBR and just hold on vitals out to a max range for simplicity? I can see how a 100 yard zero is convenient and with an elevation turret leaving it set on 1.75 MOA for example when hunting so it's an easy viral hold out to 250 yards or so. Anything further can be dialed.
You know that makes a lot of sense and I never thought of it I hear of people Zeroing a rifle at 200 yards and I'm not a fan of that I prefer a 100 yard zero but the way you do it is the best of both worlds
 
I zero at 200 as well. I don't worry about anything closer and I can shot to 300 without dialing by holding high shoulder L.Sherm suggests. Closer shots I want to be confident I can quickly get on target if need be. You have more time on longer range shots to dial and asses wind if conditions dictate. Just my two cents.
 
I zero at 100 yards, once I arrive at my hunting area I'll check my kestrel and dial for 250 in case it's a quick shot situation or 300 yards and in. Anything past that I check kestrel again dial. I used to zero at 200 yards but noticed even at 200 the different atmospheric conditions between range sessions would affect my zero. Example, in Wyoming this year 200 yards was .3 mils, in Idaho it was .2. Not a big deal or enough to make you miss, but considering this is long range hunting that will definitely compound over 500 yards plus. 100 yard zero is just easier for me now.
 
[QUOTE="AZShooter, post: 2022188, Perfect for elk where I hunt
257 weatherby 3.1" high at 100, dead on at 400, 8" low at 500 perfect for coues wt where shots are rarely closer than 300 yds


[/QUOTE]

I use to zero this way 3-3.5 in in. high at 100. The problem and why I went away from it is at 200-225 you can be 4-5 inches high. I shot at a Barbary sheep, it was right at 200, quick shot but a rock solid rest, I had a upward angle and with my 3.5 high at a hundred I sent one right over a 30+ in rams back never to be seen again. I found in a quick shot we all tend to hold center heart/ lungs. I replayed the shot later and found at that distance plus angle I was shooting 5.5 inches high which was just enough to cause the miss. That's one reason I switched to what I do today.

It really doesn't matter your chosen zero distance as long as you can remember what you need to do in the quick shots.
 
General RE Lee, I see nothing wrong with your concept, as dialing back to 100, would help you pick your bullets path between branches ect. If I lived/hunted in your area....I would probably use the same method. As our shooting conditions are likely vastly different than yours......we set our turrets with a 300 yard zero, as we had used a 300 yard zero for many years before we got the turret system! This affords us a much longer maximum range while using the "zero-stop" turret! I say......Go for it, "Go forth and kill"! ;) memtb
 
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