100 or 200 yard zero

Originally started off with the idea of doing a 200 yard zero but after reading on here and Rokslide, decided to go with a 100 yard zero.


Think I'm off to a good start. Have CDS dials on order for Texas and Colorado but also considering just learning how to really dial and put the info on my stock.
Well it's like everyone has a butt, and opinions are about as plentiful, so here are my thoughts on zeroing a rifle. The first thing that comes to mind is what cartridge are you shooting as well as the scope you are shooting. Obviously something that is distance limited like a .22 LR it's a pretty easy decision. A good quality 3 x 9 fixed scope does the trick. Since the parallax is not adjustable and set at the factory for 100 yards that would be my go to, and where I zero my .22 rifles. In my case there is a Vortex Crossfire II 4 x 12 x 50 with a 1 inch tube since there is not going to be a need for a lot of adjustment. This same theory goes for traditionally short range rifles in 30-30, 35 REM and the like.

For longer range rifles, like the 270, 308, 30-06 and anything similar that can be shot at reasonable ranges beyond and be far away, it's a different story altogether. If you are only going to shoot at 200 yards or less then all you need is, like the .22 LR simply a 3 x 9 or 4 x 12. Despite the parallax on these rifles is factory set to 100 yards (there are some that do have a parallax adjustment if yours has it, set it and use it) On these rifles I sight them in at 200 yards. On most hunting rifles if sighted in at 200 yards then a shot out to 300 yards can be done simply by holding dead on in the kill zone and squeezing the trigger (new terminology is pressing the trigger) and most hunting ammo will hit with no more than an 8 inch drop from where you are aiming when the rifle goes off. In this case a 200 yard zero essentially gives you a shot within the kill zone out to 300 yards.

For Long Range rifles, and I will let you make your own determination as to what you consider Long Range then the scope requirements change and get more expensive. If you are going to shoot at longer ranges regardless if target shooting or hunting a good 30 MM or 36 MM scope is recommended. A good one that I have used in the past is the Vortex Razor HD now in its third generation. It has a 120 MOA vertical adjustment range that is needed for extreme long range shooting. With scopes with adjustable turrets always zero at 100 yards. This is a good place to come back to after taking a long ranges shot. Using a scope like this requires shooting it at all the ranges you expect to shoot at and marking the elevation (primarily) for the scope setting at that particular range.

Well there you have it. My thoughts on what scope and how to zero it for just about any kind of shooting. Let the discussion begin.
 
Why does it matter. Know your zero and know your dope. I zero mine at x number of meters because my pace count is in meters from years of land navigation on MGRS. I can always count on my pace count if LRF or GPS has failed.
 
I'm am switching to metric so I sight everything in at 100m now. 👀 I can never remember the conversion factor though so when I use my rangefinder, set to inches, it takes forever to get on target. It goes something liked this: get distance in inches, naught from naught carry the naught, clickity click, ding. Shoot. Dang it. Range find. Rinse and repeat.

I'm determined to make this work and become a social media influencer. Maybe on tok tok or fact place if I can figure out how to put it on my tv.

100 yards and know your dope
 
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What cartridge?

I have cartridges that I zero at 50 and are also zero at 200. I start my CDS dials at 200.
I have sighted every rifle I own in at 50 yards, will give you the flattest trajectory across the spectrum, 17 hornet, 204, 223,22 etc, if you run the round used through a ballistics calculator program you'll be on the money.Our snipers sight their 308's in at 50 and will be dead on at 200, which will probably never happen anyways in an urban environment on a swat callout, most engagements will be at 50 yards or less.
 
Here we go again!
Mike Tyson Smile GIF
 
I didn't ask which was better, just stated the fact that I'm going to a 100 yard zero.
I never said one was better than the other on another thread. I just gave the OP the options on what he could do, and what I had done and why.
 
Let me say this. I perform my scope zeroing at 100 yards. Then figure out my 200 yard shooting solution, and dial up and verify at 200. Then, set my zero stop to that.
My rifles are rarely, if ever, "zeroed" at 100 or 200 exactly, however.
I get as close to a 200 yard "zero" as possible. If it is 1/8" high or low, it becomes a 191 or 208 yard zero using 200 and offsets to verify. Yes, I plug that number into my ballistic solver and rangefinder. I have rifles zeroed from about 189 to 212. As long as you are PRECISE, you are good. It is when you are off by a bit and just call 100 or 200 "close enough" that will start messing POI at distance. A good rangefinder or ballistic solver will account for environmental changes like air density, temps, shot angle, etc. as long as you have your inputs set correctly.

Wind is going to make you miss far more shots than a great shooting rifle and shooter more than your zero distance set on your scope when you start dialing for longer range shots.
 
Originally started off with the idea of doing a 200 yard zero but after reading on here and Rokslide, decided to go with a 100 yard zero.


Think I'm off to a good start. Have CDS dials on order for Texas and Colorado but also considering just learning how to really dial and put the info on my stock.
I am not the most skilled long range shooter in this group but, It is my opinion that a zero under 200 for most big game rifles is a waste of energy and time and will almost always require you to dial a correction at ranges over 200yards. A real problem in most under 300 yard encounters where time is a critical factor.

A 100yd zero means you are probably never shooting above the line of sight aiming point on your target. This means that your MPBR is about 3 inches for a relatively short distance beyond 100 yds, unless you hold over.

At 200 yds your MPBR is slightly larger at distances inside 200yds because your trajectory probably had to come up above line of sight to reach zero at 200yds. Again, your MPBR past 200 yards drops off quickly.

A suggestion is to do what I have done.
First, determine your velocity.
Second, get a good group at 100yds. It would be best if every shot counted as a "first cold round".
Third, use a ballistic calculator and play with your zero distance to determine the maximum zero distance that gives you a six-inch MPBR.
Fourth, using your 100-yard group data, adjust your scope to match the 100-yard rise at the optimum zero you calculated. Set this as your new zero.

An example of how this works is my 700LR in 30-06 with a 200 grain ELD-X at 2774 FPS.
I zeroed at 100yds and adjusted the turret up to match the rise required at 100 yds for a 235 yard zero.
I now have an MPBR of 278 yards that has been verified on Iron out to 300 yards.

a benefit is that a top line holdover on an average size whitetail deer at ranges over 278 yards should give me a chest hit out to almost 400yards.
 
If you have a mil optic and range finder gives you moa, just do this. Per 100 yards will be 3mils and per 400 yards add 1 more mil to the 12. Not perfect, but close enough in most cases? I have .1 and .05 mil scopes along with .250 and .125 moa's. I like having challenges and keeps me in the loop on different values IF I get in a pickle? It was a long time before I bought anything other than a duplex, so I just used 3 methods of being on target............center of cross, top of cross and bottom of cross, but was only out to 600 yards (264wm). 100 yards was "0"d and didn't know much as that was my dad's norm for sighting in.
 
All my big game hunting rifles are set to 3.25" high at 100 yards. that way I never have to think about which rifle I am using and I can hold on hair to 350 yards with any of them. They also ALL have a drop and wind card taped to the butt for the specific load being used. Card information has been verified at 300, 500 and 800 yards. Except for Bear, Wolf and Varmints, baiting is not legal in Alberta. The game doesn't give you time to twist dials most of the time.
 

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