100 or 200 yard zero

First 3 out of a cold bore @ 200 yards, in the red. Waited about 10 minutes and the next two hit right. The next couple strings, same process same results. It's 90+ degrees down here in Texas and thinking I didn't let the barrel cool down enough, thoughts or is it the shooter?

Definitely happy with the first three, especially for my ability right now.
 

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First 3 out of a cold bore @ 200 yards, in the red. Waited about 10 minutes and the next two hit right. The next couple strings, same process same results. It's 90+ degrees down here in Texas and thinking I didn't let the barrel cool down enough, thoughts or is it the shooter?

Definitely happy with the first three, especially for my ability right now.
If it does three in the red three days in a row, i would say you are good to go.
 
First 3 out of a cold bore @ 200 yards, in the red. Waited about 10 minutes and the next two hit right. The next couple strings, same process same results. It's 90+ degrees down here in Texas and thinking I didn't let the barrel cool down enough, thoughts or is it the shooter?

Definitely happy with the first three, especially for my ability right now.
Nice group on first three. When you say next couple of strings- when are they shot? Next day, or after 30 minute cool down? If you take the five shots sequentially say 30 seconds apart do they all groups same, or does POI move as barrel heats up. Also record and number each shot so you can see any patterns. During your 10 minute wait did you keep the rifle undisturbed on the bench or did you reposition it?
 
Nice group on first three. When you say next couple of strings- when are they shot? Next day, or after 30 minute cool down? If you take the five shots sequentially say 30 seconds apart do they all groups same, or does POI move as barrel heats up. Also record and number each shot so you can see any patterns. During your 10 minute wait did you keep the rifle undisturbed on the bench or did you reposition it?
This was today. Each string was about 10-15 minutes apart. I didn't take 5 shots in a row at that pace.

However, when the barrel is warm or hit. The POI seems to shift to the right. This is a hunting rifle, so I'm more concerned with a cold bore zero than accuracy when it is hot. Hopefully, I won't need more than 1 shot.

I let the rifle sit while it was on the bench. I'm shooting off bags and not a sled.
 
Let me say this. I perform my scope zeroing at 100 yards. Then figure out my 200 yard shooting solution, and dial up and verify at 200. Then, set my zero stop to that.
My rifles are rarely, if ever, "zeroed" at 100 or 200 exactly, however.
I get as close to a 200 yard "zero" as possible. If it is 1/8" high or low, it becomes a 191 or 208 yard zero using 200 and offsets to verify. Yes, I plug that number into my ballistic solver and rangefinder. I have rifles zeroed from about 189 to 212. As long as you are PRECISE, you are good. It is when you are off by a bit and just call 100 or 200 "close enough" that will start messing POI at distance. A good rangefinder or ballistic solver will account for environmental changes like air density, temps, shot angle, etc. as long as you have your inputs set correctly.

Wind is going to make you miss far more shots than a great shooting rifle and shooter more than your zero distance set on your scope when you start dialing for longer range shots.
Where I hunt there is generally not enough time to range your target then do all kinds of computations to figure out how much to dial up in order to hit a deer or other animal. Unless the deer is in an open field, which there are several in the area I hunt if you have twenty seconds to see, identify and take your shot you are lucky. That is why I generally have either a 100 or 200 yard zero that lets me shoot longer distances by simply holding dead on. It's kind of like a, "Battlesight zero," for hunting. Anyone who has ever shot a 400 yard/meter qualification course in the military knows exactly what I mean.
 
Do the same thing except do not shoot the five, just the three. Three separate days. That way, you only foul/dirty it with 9 more shots. If it repeats, you should be good for hunting.
 
Where I hunt there is generally not enough time to range your target then do all kinds of computations to figure out how much to dial up in order to hit a deer or other animal. Unless the deer is in an open field, which there are several in the area I hunt if you have twenty seconds to see, identify and take your shot you are lucky. That is why I generally have either a 100 or 200 yard zero that lets me shoot longer distances by simply holding dead on. It's kind of like a, "Battlesight zero," for hunting. Anyone who has ever shot a 400 yard/meter qualification course in the military knows exactly what I mean.
Just an honest question. Why did you quote me with that response?
Because I mentioned rangefinder use?

I don't guess at game distances unless I know it is under 200 yards. Then, I just point and shoot. I am fairly confident I can gauge what under 200 is. But beyond that, I don't "hold on hair". I might not dial if it is 340 yards and a .5MIL shooting solution. I have reticles with subtensions that I can accurately hold over. I have done that numerous times. But that .5MIL is 8"+. I want to know what my actual solution is for a much better idea of error factor I need to account for.
 
Just an honest question. Why did you quote me with that response?
Because I mentioned rangefinder use?

I don't guess at game distances unless I know it is under 200 yards. Then, I just point and shoot. I am fairly confident I can gauge what under 200 is. But beyond that, I don't "hold on hair". I might not dial if it is 340 yards and a .5MIL shooting solution. I have reticles with subtensions that I can accurately hold over. I have done that numerous times. But that .5MIL is 8"+. I want to know what my actual solution is for a much better idea of error factor I need to account for.
Just so you know, I do have a range finder and use it a lot. The best use for it when hunting is to range different objects in my hunting area to see how far away they are before any animal comes into view. That way I have a very good idea what distance that I will be shooting at. If hunting my normal area I pretty well have the different ranges memorized, when in a new area I range objects, write them down on a piece of paper for a ready reference. That way, for instance I know that the intersection of those two farm roads is exactly 228 yards. I don't have to fumble around with the range finder or try to range it using the scope reticle and all the math involved. Just simply hold where I need to hold on the target and shoot when the trigger breaks and send the round heads down range to the target. I can hold dead on since the rifle is sighted in at 200 yards. Works well and saves time when whatever animal I am hunting shows up unexpectedly, which is almost always the case. By the way if I'm shooting the .270 a dead on hold is good out to 300 yards, the max range I will shoot at an animal.
 
Just so you know, I do have a range finder and use it a lot. The best use for it when hunting is to range different objects in my hunting area to see how far away they are before any animal comes into view. That way I have a very good idea what distance that I will be shooting at. If hunting my normal area I pretty well have the different ranges memorized, when in a new area I range objects, write them down on a piece of paper for a ready reference. That way, for instance I know that the intersection of those two farm roads is exactly 228 yards. I don't have to fumble around with the range finder or try to range it using the scope reticle and all the math involved. Just simply hold where I need to hold on the target and shoot when the trigger breaks and send the round heads down range to the target. I can hold dead on since the rifle is sighted in at 200 yards. Works well and saves time when whatever animal I am hunting shows up unexpectedly, which is almost always the case. By the way if I'm shooting the .270 a dead on hold is good out to 300 yards, the max range I will shoot at an animal.
That makes sense. If you are sitting the same spot and have a max range of 300 yards, having a zero you can shoot from 40 to 300 works great. And you really wouldn't even need a rangefinder at those distances. 200 yard zero puts you about 1.3-1.4" high at 130-140 yards, and only 5-6" low at 300. Maybe add 1/2 MOA to your zero, and be even more forgiving.

It just doesn't work for my type of hunting. Tough to pre-range when you cover hundreds of square miles. Or when there are nearly zero objects to range. Or when game can appear anywhere from 50 to 1400 yards and up to 4 canyons away. Out west is a different ballgame, and much more of a spot and stalk or stillhunting type game rather than a stand or blind, unless you are sitting water.
 
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