Which bullet for deer for 6.5CM inside 400 yards?

Your parameters are pretty easy to meet and there are many bullets you could try. But here are my two cents.

Cent #1: I don't like lead in my food; I don't have any IQ points to spare. So I start with the non-toxics and see if they'll shoot. Anything under an inch will work at 400 yards or less but better is always...better. The Barnes 120 TTSX (not their LR, they are not as accurate in any of my guns) shoots flatter than hell and works well in my custom 264 Win with a range of powders.

Cent #2: If I can't get non-toxics to shoot well enough (for me that's .5 or better average in a 3x5 for hunting guns ((average group size for 5, 3 shot groups for magnums, 5 shot groups for non-magnums)) then I move to bonded lead bullets and I try to stick with the tougher ones. Bullets that don't pass through largely intact are leaving microscopic bits of lead in the meat, no matter how careful you are.

Cent #3: If cents 1 & 2 offend you because of your politics re: government dictated bullet choice. Don't bother to respond as I just don't care.
 
I have had a lot of luck on whitetail with the 140 ELD-M out of the CM. Either me or friends with the same setup in some areas where culling is necessary so quite a bit of volume we have never experienced an issue. Furthest run was 45 yards. Most shots for heart/lung out to 400, i like it better than high shoulder.
For further shots out to 700 yds (but also out of a 6.5 284 so more velocity) i have done well with the Berger Hvld.
 
For those velocities and distances a 130 Accubond and 130 Scirocco are stellar. Both tend to be easy to load for in the traditional cup & core construction, penetrate extremely well, and hold together.

For side chest shots, 120 SST and even 120 Ballistic Tips do ok, but not something to trust with quartering shots or through heavy bone.
 
I used 140 accubonds in my 260 Remington for the 2017 deer season here. Got 2 deer within 50 years and both bullets didn't expand. It looked like someone pushed a pencil through them. Luckily I got the hearts on both of them but my 8 point made it over 200 yards. I used 143 eld x this year but only had the opportunity for a head shot on a doe so no real useable results there. However I've found they're very inconsistent in the tip to ogive measurements. Next year I'm trying Swift scirocco for my hunting bullet
 
Cent #2: If I can't get non-toxics to shoot well enough (for me that's .5 or better average in a 3x5 for hunting guns ((average group size for 5, 3 shot groups for magnums, 5 shot groups for non-magnums)) then I move to bonded lead bullets and I try to stick with the tougher ones. Bullets that don't pass through largely intact are leaving microscopic bits of lead in the meat, no matter how careful you are.

Sounds like an assumption. Got any viable proof??

Me: I will use anything except a match bullet (I can't unnerstand why some people use these for game animals when they are designed for paper only), any Sierra bullet or a Berger.

I want something that will leave holes on both sides or both ends.
 
I used 140 accubonds in my 260 Remington for the 2017 deer season here. Got 2 deer within 50 years and both bullets didn't expand. It looked like someone pushed a pencil through them.
That is very surprising to hear. I've used accubonds in several calibers and never had one fail to expand. In fact, some people refer to them as "accuBOMBS" due to the explosive nature of this round up close.
I'd be ****ed and move on if I had your experience as well but, that is definitely a flukey thing to have happened on 2 deer. What was your velocity?
 
Bought my 1st Creed last year in an AR10 platform. I've always been a 140gr whitetail guy, but on the advice of someone that shoots and reloads a lot more than me I went with 129gr SSTs in my AR due to the 20" barrel. It's pushing them around 2750ish fps. There have been 6 deer killed with it this year. 4 of them by 2 different kids on their 1st deer behind the shoulder. I was a little worried about the 129s going in, but after cleaning those 4 I'm more than impressed. I shot 2 this past weekend with it and removed all doubt. One was 249 ranged yards and walking. High shoulder and DRT. In fact, all 6 have DRTed within 3-4 steps. I really thought I wanted the 140 ELD-Ms, but after seeing what these 129 SSTs did on actual deer I will look no further.
 
I definitely think you should consider using Barnes bullets. I like Barnes LRX Long-Range Hunting Bullets 264 Caliber, 6.5mm (264 Diameter) 127 Grain LRX Boat Tail Lead-Free Box of 50. ($0.75/Bullet). Or loaded they sale
6.5 CREEDMOOR Cartridge with a B.C. .468, Weight 127 LRX BT,
Velocity 2825. Box of 20 Price of 35.99. I personally prefer to reload. But this loaded ammo is reliable and has decent accuracy. Good for at least 700 yards with the 6.5 creed. I also think you should try the 95 gr. LRX, As you can get really get some speed up. I shot a lot of deer and elk using Barnes x bullets and have never had to shoot them more than once. And I have never had to track a animal after shooting them with a Barnes, because they are laying right where they were. I would never use a conventional bullet for hunting, after my more than 25 year's of using Barnes. I have made shots at over a 1000 yards, and had good expansion. The elk only took 4 to 5 steps and fell over. I only suggest that a real experienced shooter take a shot like that. I did recover the slug From that elk. And it had a good full mushroom. I was also using a 300 Win. Mag. Give them a try you won't be disappointed. Hope this helps!
 
Sounds like an assumption. Got any viable proof??

Me: I will use anything except a match bullet (I can't unnerstand why some people use these for game animals when they are designed for paper only), any Sierra bullet or a Berger.

I want something that will leave holes on both sides or both ends.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjANegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0RHvvelO88lkTdz3Fr0wju

I didn't begin using pure copper bullets or start making them because of the lead issue. I will say that given the choice of two glasses of water, one with low levels of lead and one without, I'll choose the lead free water.
 
I know this is a long range forum but the advice you all give here has been great so I continue to ask my questions here. Which bullet would you use for reloads on deer and smaller critters inside 400 yards? Im thinking something in the 120-140grain range (highly considering the 117gr Hammer sledgehammers and the 130 grain accubond). The 117gr sledgehammers should provide a flat trajectory so I'm leaning towards those but I'm not sure how they perform on game yet.

I've been loading a 120 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip for my friends.260, he thinks it's some sort of death ray, drops deer dry. Most of his shots are under 200.
 
I know this is a long range forum but the advice you all give here has been great so I continue to ask my questions here. Which bullet would you use for reloads on deer and smaller critters inside 400 yards? Im thinking something in the 120-140grain range (highly considering the 117gr Hammer sledgehammers and the 130 grain accubond). The 117gr sledgehammers should provide a flat trajectory so I'm leaning towards those but I'm not sure how they perform on game yet.
 
That is very surprising to hear. I've used accubonds in several calibers and never had one fail to expand. In fact, some people refer to them as "accuBOMBS" due to the explosive nature of this round up close.
I'd be ****ed and move on if I had your experience as well but, that is definitely a flukey thing to have happened on 2 deer. What was your velocity?
Impact velocity was probably about 2700-2750fps. I like bullets that hold together and exit but that was too little expansion .Didn't ruin any rib meat at all. Ate right up to the hole
 
Hornady 120 GMX will retain its weight and punch through. It will expand perfectly much like the Barnes bullet and do a great deal of damage. Velocities are up near 3000fps out of a Ruger American
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top