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When to give up on a barrel?

Interesting thread, the reloaders among us have all been down this path. You have plenty of rounds down the tube for barrel break-in. As others have said I would definitely test other powders. Articles and YouTube have plenty of information on ladder and similar testing. Look at a few and choose one. I have found some pretty picky barrels, almost all on factory guns. After testing a few more powders if it doesn't show promise I'd sell it or take it to my smith and have him check everything. All checks good? Again sell, or rebarrel. Rebarrel might be quickest and most economical. I like a half moa hunting rifle but in a lighter hunting rifle that I'm packing around all day, a true MOA gun is still a 600 yard big game rifle.
 
So, there are a few things you can look at having a gun smith check. First and foremost how tight is the chamber? Too tight? It can be reamed a thou or 2 longer, depending on headspace. Is the barrel clocked correctly on the reciever? (huge issues with harmonics if it's a carbon not clocked correctly) Is there chatter in your lands and groves where the reamer engaged the rifling? Is the chamber actually cut square? And what does the crown look like? Often overlooked however it has huge implications on precision.
I have thought about buying a reamer. That way I could reream this chamber and if and when I get new barrel I would have it already. I should be able to at least stop the bolt clicking issue I hope.
I could have my smith check all the stuff you mentioned at the same time.
 
Have you tried a different brass other than the ADG? Have you tried reloading some of the brass from the factory Ammo that it prints good groups with? What brand brass is the factory ammo using? ADG brass is a different animal and SOME times can make a rifle finicky when finding a load that works well. I experienced this with ADG brass in my 6.5PRC. Took me a while to find the right combination but when I did it printed under 1/2 MOA with no issue at all. That being said, I found it easier and quicker to dial a load with the Hornady brass. I wouldn't trash a barrel that's printing 1/2 MOA three shot groups with factory ammo and continue to work on it.
Not yet but I do have some new nosler brass i will try.
 
Here is my dilemma. I purchased a new fierce carbon fury 28 nos this spring.
I like the rifle but it will not keep 5 shot groups to the .5 minute min. that They guarentee.
After talking to them I sent it back for them to go over and shoot.
They only guarantee a 3 shot .5 group which they did. I was hoping they would replace the barrel but they wouldn't because it shot 3 into .5. They were using factory nosler 160 gr accubonds. Nothing I could do at that point, it met their guarantee.
My problem is it is basically impossible to find the loaded ammo they used or the bullets.
I have a friend that does a lot of reloading and shooting and is very good at it. We have shot lots of different kinds and weights of bullets, including hammers, 169 and 155 hh. The thing is this rifle is inconsistent as heck. Sometimes the fliers are 4th and 5th shot and then be the complete opposite or anywhere in between.

The barrel is always cooled between shots and have used 3 different scopes and checked to make sure everything is tight.

On top of that now we are getting bolt clicks with adg brass that's been loaded several times. From the research I've done the bolt click issue is from the chamber being a little smaller and the Redding sizer die is able to resize enough to eliminate the bolt click problem.
Fierce and Christiansen chamber their Rifles smaller to gain accuracy from factory ammo which kinda leaves reloaders at a disadvantage.

I'm thinking of giving up an rebarreling with a proof research and starting over.
I need input on which way to go on this.
I would be ok with .75 or even 1moa but can't get the consistency to get it.
 
Crap, hit the wrong button.
First off, if I was shooting targets, the 28 Nosler would not be my first or even on my list to shoot, hunting yes.
2nd, 3 shot groups is all that's needed to test the gun, 5 test the shooter. I'm not saying this is your issue.
3rd, a carbon wrapped barrel would not be on my target rifle And never will be. Solid SS only. More than likely your issue.
 
I would buyer take it to. My. Gunsmith. Bob. White He is still. A. Competitive. Bench rest. Shooter ! I would ask. For an examination. Of the barrel And. Options !
 
I have thought about buying a reamer. That way I could reream this chamber and if and when I get new barrel I would have it already. I should be able to at least stop the bolt clicking issue I hope.
I could have my smith check all the stuff you mentioned at the same time.
As I said before, I really identify with your struggle. I decided to keep talking with the guys at Fierce until I got satisfaction. I don't know how far you are from Gunnison/Redmond Utah, where the Fierce shop is, but I live in PA and it is further than Wisconsin, and I drove there with my rifle. The guys there are top notch, and will work with you to get the rifle where you want it. I was just there in September, and the problem then was they could not get 28 Nosler ammo. I had reloaded my own and had plenty. But I am sure you can get on the phone (ask for Aaron) and talk through this and get a resolution. These are fantastic rifles and the company is committed to their rifles being top notch. I would love to know if in fact your experience is different than mine. Or you may find that this is just not the type of rifle you need - a cold bore hunting rifle.
 
I have a custom 28 Nosler and I can tell you, they can be picky finding the right combo of powder and bullet. I have tried H1k, Retumbo, RL33 and IMR8133. Mine seemed to like RL33, however, this powder is temp sensitive and like others stated above 80 degree's and you developed a max load in the winter, you will see a spike in pressure and bolt stick with a possibility of popping a primer. It is very dirty and will require cleaning every 20 to 30 rounds. I will also warn you chasing those tiny groups in this cartridge will eat your throat, it definitely is not a target rifle, if you do not have a borescope, get one, you can find one for 50.00 on Amazon called Teslong, very good scope for the price. I noticed on my Brux SS barrel, I would see about 1/8 inch of throat erosion every 100 rounds. My suggestion, pick one bullet you want to use for this rifle, once you determine that part, work slowly with the seating depth first with the powder you want to use. I would start at around the minimum powder charge and run a seating depth test like Berger recommends with a hunting rifle, except I would keep it at 3 shot groups max per seating depth. Once you find the correct seating depth your rifle likes, say under .75 group, then work on powder charge, you should see it at minimum holding what you found on seating test, then it will or should open up as you go up in powder and then start back to closing up, you may see a couple of nodes that are good in the powder range. Groups will open then close then open again and maybe close by the time you hit max charge. I would suggest using a Chronograph on all your testing, this will give you a good idea on what your combustion looks like on each charge, you should see ES/SD go up and down through all of them, you will probably see some that have large spreads that shoot great and some with small spreads that shoot crappy, but you should find one that comes together with good group and spread. Once you find a node, you need to see if you can duplicate it. If you can then move out to 500 yards and test it. Go at slow, don't swap bullets, powder or primer stick with one combo. I will also say, since this is a factory rifle, it is probably setup on SAMMI specs and probably shoots the 160gr class bullets very well. Good luck, but keep an eye out on round count, depending on how hard you push it, your barrel will last anywhere from 700 to 1100 rounds, but more likely below 1000. The powders that are hard on throats are RL33 and N570, H1000 is probably going to be your coolest burning. I have mine shooting 169HH at little over 3200fps at around .650 on size, remember this is a hunting rig, so anything below 1 MOA is awesome, don't sweat it to .50 or less. You should be most concerned with the first cold bore shot from 100 to 1000 yards, this will be a real hunting scenario.
 
With the first Fierce I bought I tried all the applicable "Extreme" and Extreme Type powders. H1000, Retumbo, IMR 7977. Before switching to RE33 I was ready to settle for 1.25 MOA. I was just done with that gun. First group using RE33 and 168 Classic Hunters was under 3/4". After .5 grain increments in powder charge the rifle shoots the 168 Classic Hunters and 160 Accubonds into ragged holes at 100.
Word of caution. Nosler brass necks are a couple thousandths thicker than ADG necks. Water capacity between the 2 brands was within less than 3 grains but ADG brass requires 3.5 more grains of RE33 to equal velocity in thick necked Nosler cases.
The second Fierce 28 I bought shot very well from the get go with RE33. Use caution, chambers are tight. I am about 50 FPS over max velocity Barnes data shows with 5 grains LESS powder shooting the 168 LRX…

I get 0.6 inch groups at 100yds with IMR 4350 in both my 300 Win Mag and my 30-06. You might try it, IMR 4831, and IMR 7828, which is on a par with H1000. The Hodgden's website gives Retumbo, US 869, and IMR 7977 or 8133 as powders, also. All of these powders are good powders for pretty much any of the 'magnum' cartridges, along with pretty much all the long action cartridges. You might try some of them, too. Some rifles like different powders. You don't know what cannister powder was loaded for your factory loads. To duplicate it, you'll need to try different powders and find the closest powder to what was used at the factory.

With the large case capacity of the 28, try using RL26. I use it in my 7 mag with a 28" Kreiger barrel/ 8 twist. MV of 2984. It will shoot under 1/10th at 100 yds. I had him throat it for heavy bullets like the 180's and even the 190's. Find a gunsmith that builds competition rifles and tell him that you want a competition hunting rifle. My gunsmith's main business is building rifles for PRS competition. Good luck.
The first thing I will do is clean the barrel good and switch powder.
 
Here is my dilemma. I purchased a new fierce carbon fury 28 nos this spring.
I like the rifle but it will not keep 5 shot groups to the .5 minute min. that They guarentee.
After talking to them I sent it back for them to go over and shoot.
They only guarantee a 3 shot .5 group which they did. I was hoping they would replace the barrel but they wouldn't because it shot 3 into .5. They were using factory nosler 160 gr accubonds. Nothing I could do at that point, it met their guarantee.
My problem is it is basically impossible to find the loaded ammo they used or the bullets.
I have a friend that does a lot of reloading and shooting and is very good at it. We have shot lots of different kinds and weights of bullets, including hammers, 169 and 155 hh. The thing is this rifle is inconsistent as heck. Sometimes the fliers are 4th and 5th shot and then be the complete opposite or anywhere in between.

The barrel is always cooled between shots and have used 3 different scopes and checked to make sure everything is tight.

On top of that now we are getting bolt clicks with adg brass that's been loaded several times. From the research I've done the bolt click issue is from the chamber being a little smaller and the Redding sizer die is able to resize enough to eliminate the bolt click problem.
Fierce and Christiansen chamber their Rifles smaller to gain accuracy from factory ammo which kinda leaves reloaders at a disadvantage.

I'm thinking of giving up an rebarreling with a proof research and starting over.
I need input on which way to go on this.
I would be ok with .75 or even 1moa but can't get the consistency to get it.
I have been shooting 160 partitions and accubonds into ragged holes out of my 7mm Weatherby for years using Nosler's recommended load of 64.5 gr RL 22. I know that RL 22 has been impossible to find lately but I've also had success with RL15. If you're interested in giving it a shot and need some bullets, I might be able to help you with that. Just let me know.
 
Fierce will give you a reloading recipe they guarantee will give you the .5 moa 3 shot group
They must have stopped doing that because they wouldn't tell me anything about reloading. They pushed their own dirt nap loaded ammo very hard though.
With their tight chambers they want people to shoot factory ammo.
I called redding and the tech told me they received 2 or 3 calls a week because of bolt clicks. Mostly in fierce and Christiansen arms.
 
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