When to give up on a barrel?

[bikerbowhunter]

They must have stopped doing that because they wouldn't tell me anything about reloading. They pushed their own dirt nap loaded ammo very hard though.
With their tight chambers they want people to shoot factory ammo.
I called redding and the tech told me they received 2 or 3 calls a week because of bolt clicks. Mostly in fierce and Christiansen arms.

I am surprised and disappointed to hear that. By bolt click, do you mean heavy bolt lift after firing or tight closing the bolt when chambering a new round?

 

[Riverguy]

Glass bed the action first just pilliar bedding like they do doesn't always provide a guaranteed that the action doesn't move. Ask any good gunsmith or read up on it.

I had a similar issue with my Begara. Everyone said these guns do not need to be bedded. Including my gunsmith. But I finallly bedded it. Bingo. One ragged hole accuracy at 100 yds. One other thing that is super critical is the seating depth. A couple thousandths will change it. You might check that also.

I have seen enough posts about bedding so I will go that route also.

 

[RuninL8]

I have thought about buying a reamer. That way I could reream this chamber and if and when I get new barrel I would have it already. I should be able to at least stop the bolt clicking issue I hope.
I could have my smith check all the stuff you mentioned at the same time.

You simply running a reamer in will not take out any runout or mis-alignment you may or may not have. It has to go in a correctly set up lathe and tried and then re-set the chamber. Pm if you would like me to talk you through a few things.

 

[Riverguy]

I am surprised and disappointed to hear that. By bolt click, do you mean heavy bolt lift after firing or tight closing the bolt when chambering a new round?

There are 1 or 2 you tube vid about it.
Maybe someone could put a link up. I am technically challenged.
From what I gathered it is the base of the brass expands to the point it is extremely tight in the chamber and can sometimes be difficult to extract. The bolt will lift easily until you get to the very top, ( last 1/8 or 1/16 of bolt lift) it has to basically pop brass loose from the chamber. Clear as mud I know. Maybe someone can explain it better than i.

 

[Riverguy]

You simply running a reamer in will not take out any runout or mis-alignment you may or may not have. It has to go in a correctly set up lathe and tried and then re-set the chamber. Pm if you would like me to talk you through a few things.

I'm really hoping I do not have a mis-alignment issue from $2500 rifle but who knows. Actually I was thinking I could ream it out a couple thousandths bigger to stop the bolt clicking issue. Thanks for the offer I might take you up on that.

 

[RuninL8]

I'm really hoping I do not have a mis-alignment issue from $2500 rifle but who knows. Actually I was thinking I could ream it out a couple thousandths bigger to stop the bolt clicking issue. Thanks for the offer I might take you up on that.

I have seen some very high end rifles come to my shop, that just needed a little massaging. My most recent from a very well know company and as it happened was a 28 nosler. I feel the frustration in folks and see it more often than not, where the expectations of an expensive rifle are met with very disappointing results. Good news, it can be corrected.

 

[bikerbowhunter]

There are 1 or 2 you tube vid about it.
Maybe someone could put a link up. I am technically challenged.
From what I gathered it is the base of the brass expands to the point it is extremely tight in the chamber and can sometimes be difficult to extract. The bolt will lift easily until you get to the very top, ( last 1/8 or 1/16 of bolt lift) it has to basically pop brass loose from the chamber. Clear as mud I know. Maybe someone can explain it better than i.

now I understand. And this happens after firing a new factory round? Or are these reloads? After once fired, brass needs to be checked for length and trimmed, and I also anneal them and check each piece in a Wilson case/chamber checker. This is a very hot caliber and each brass needs to be full length resized and checked before each reload. 2 weeks ago at our local range, someone had a brand new Christenson 28N and 5 boxes of Gunwerks ammo ($10/round!). 5 of them would not chamber in his rifle. I shot them in my Fierce, so that affirms the super tight chambers you are talking about.

 

[LongBomber]

now I understand. And this happens after firing a new factory round? Or are these reloads? After once fired, brass needs to be checked for length and trimmed, and I also anneal them and check each piece in a Wilson case/chamber checker. This is a very hot caliber and each brass needs to be full length resized and checked before each reload. 2 weeks ago at our local range, someone had a brand new Christenson 28N and 5 boxes of Gunwerks ammo ($10/round!). 5 of them would not chamber in his rifle. I shot them in my Fierce, so that affirms the super tight chambers you are talking about.

There was a thread on it here, (issues with 300prc maybe?) the chamber is smaller in dia just above the case head than what the resizing die's are. With repeated firing the clearance becomes an interference fit and you get a bolt click at the top right at the end of the primary extraction. Small base dies will fix it, or polishing the first 1/2-3/4" of the chamber to open it a couple thou.

 

[SSgt G Cody]

Most of my rifles are Sendero-type Rem 700's that are pillar-bedded with free floating barrels, accurately torqued, etc. All shoot .3 MOA or better with my handloads. Instead of re-barreling, once my guns get to the point that accuracy opens up beyond .5 MOA I sell rifle to a worthy local hunter who wants a really fine rifle. With trigger, barrel and action refinements, etc the gun is more than capable of good accuracy for at least another 2000 rounds, which is a lifetime for most hunters! I also give them a 20-round box of hunting ammo, and reloading info for that accuracy load. They get all this, with scope, for less than a new rifle alone (usually), and I get the pleasure of helping them, plus building a new 'Toy' for myself! It's a Win-Win thing!!!

 

[Riverguy]

There was a thread on it here, (issues with 300prc maybe?) the chamber is smaller in dia just above the case head than what the resizing die's are. With repeated firing the clearance becomes an interference fit and you get a bolt click at the top right at the end of the primary extraction. Small base dies will fix it, or polishing the first 1/2-3/4" of the chamber to open it a couple thou.

I looked for small base dies and came to the conclusion that short of custom those dies are not made.
If anyone has info to where to get small base dies I would like to find one. Thanks

 

[bikerbowhunter]

I looked for small base dies and came to the conclusion that short of custom those dies are not made.
If anyone has info to where to get small base dies I would like to find one. Thanks

Your first post stated that the Redding die resized it sufficiently to get rid of the click... so why the need for a small base die?

 

[dougduey]

I looked for small base dies and came to the conclusion that short of custom those dies are not made.
If anyone has info to where to get small base dies I would like to find one. Thanks

Redding has a few cartridges that they make them for. I have one for my 6.5-284 Norma. I'm pretty sure they will make you a custom small base die. Give them a call.

 

[Riverguy]

Your first post stated that the Redding die resized it sufficiently to get rid of the click... so why the need for a small base die?

Your right, just reread that. I meant to say it does not eliminate the bolt click. My mistake on that one.

 

[Riverguy]

Redding has a few cartridges that they make them for. I have one for my 6.5-284 Norma. I'm pretty sure they will make you a custom small base die. Give them a call.

I talked with a tech at redding and he said they don't have 28nos small base dies.
They can do custom dies but he stated they are about 1 1/2 to 2 years out.