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When checking bolt-lug face surface % with a sharpie...

I think one could write a book on this whole lug lapping & lug alignment thing. I've been told that the upward pressure of the trigger sear affects the alignment. Maybe, maybe not - I think that depends on the lock time as I don't know if the bolt can drop in the short time before the bullet leaves the rifle. If so, then maybe it SHOULD be lapped with mainspring pressure. If not, then not. Or maybe something in between......

Frankly, I prefer to fit bolts so there is no significant play. That way it doesn't matter. I also machine the lugs and the lug abutments to get a precision fit. As a result, they almost always show over 85% contact. (100% if you ignore the lug relief at the bolt shaft and the lug ramps). I do it because I can. I really don't know if it actually matters because I've never done any controlled statistically valid testing.

I have lapped lugs on occasion using a seperate lug tensioner screwed into the front of the action in place of the barrel. However I prefer to single point machine them to be concentric

FWIW, I wouldn't lap the lugs on any firearm if I am not going to adjust the headspace afterward. It doesn't take much lapping to get the headspace out of whack.

Also, it could be a disaster to lap lugs with the barrel in place and not get all the lapping compound out. It's a lot safer to just remove the barrel.
 
One of the custom action makers mentions on their page how their bolts have something like .012" operating clearance that goes to .000" clearance as the bolt handle stops rotating into battery. Assuming that you could achieve this geometry in a factory action then the sear force would have no influence. I still wouldn't lap such a set-up with the firing pin assembly in place as there it would be influencing things.
 
One of the custom action makers mentions on their page how their bolts have something like .012" operating clearance that goes to .000" clearance as the bolt handle stops rotating into battery. Assuming that you could achieve this geometry in a factory action then the sear force would have no influence. I still wouldn't lap such a set-up with the firing pin assembly in place as there it would be influencing things.

I'm not sure what that means.....

One interpretation might be the equivalent of Borden bumps where the bolt diameter is less than the raceway diameter and has a lot of slop as it slides back and forth. This slop disappears when the bolt is rotated into position because the "bumps" which were in the lug raceway now bear on the main shaft raceway to eliminate all clearance. Note that the Browning X-Bolt uses plastic guides on the bolt shaft to achieve a similar result. Borden is very aggressive about protecting his patents and I find the results kind of ugly so I prefer to install a new bolt with a fitted shaft clearance of 2 to 3 thou.

Another interpretation might be what is usually called bolt nose clearance. This is the gap between the bolt nose and the barrel tenon in the fully closed position. I could never endorse zero clearance in this dimension. You always need a little clearance for dirt or carbon fouling and even temperature expansion, and a bit more clearance for hunting rifles where cycling the bolt is mission critical.

Each to his own.
 
Everyone probably has their preferred method to lap the bolt lugs.
I feel it is part of the accurizing/truing process and as such, follow a strict regiment that Includes lapping the lugs.

Before any lapping is done, the action must be trued to the bolt center line. Once all bolt surfaces are squared (Face, lugs and lug abutments) and threads are trued to the bolt center line, lapping can begin.

The best way (Most accurate way) is to use a spring loaded tool That pushes against the bolt face and uses the trued receiver face to square up on. This prevents the uneven lapping that can occur from bolt slack allowing the bolt to cock from applying pressure to the bolt handle.

I prefer using Blue die, but I guess a permanent marker would work.
I also prefer a minimum of 80% on all lugs and strive for 100 % of the contact surfaces. actions with uneven contact of the bolt locking lugs will cause uneven stress on the lugs and cause the bolt to move into an un square position during firing.

All action truing should be done before any barrel work is performed to get the optimum fit of the threads and final Head space.

J E CUSTOM
 
I feel it is part of the accurizing/truing process and as such, follow a strict regiment that Includes lapping the lugs............. The best way (Most accurate way) is to use a spring loaded tool That pushes against the bolt face and uses the trued receiver face to square up on. This prevents the uneven lapping that can occur from bolt slack allowing the bolt to cock from applying pressure to the bolt handle.
J E CUSTOM

First, I agree with your comments on this thread. In fact, I generally like and, agree with your posts even to the point of suggesting that others seek your opinion where I don't have one of my own.

However your comments above do raise some questions in some circles - especially the benchrest crowd who usually, but not always, prefer to avoid lapping and take the position that properly cut surfaces do not need lapping.

Central to their argument is their position that the trigger sear forces the bolt shaft to the top of the raceway prior to firing, and that the bolt will drop to its normal position after pulling the trigger. I have challenged this position in the past, but you never "bit" on my comments so I am now asking you directly.

Is this preloaded condition important?

Is there enough time between firing and bullet exit to make any falling of the bolt relevant?

Does the firing pin tension affect the bolt position during the interim between pin release and bullet exit?

I don't ask these questions because I have a strong position one way or the other. I ask because the answers dramatically affect the best approach to lapping the lugs. Frankly, I could save a lot of effort and cost buying custom bolts (to minimize the effect) if it doesn't really matter.

I also ask because the answer affects my thinking on trigger over travel.

I would love to understand these matters a bit better and would appreciate your views.

Maybe I should start a new thread.....
 
I'm not sure what that means.....
What it means, if I understood their description correctly, is that the bolt has .012" clearance out of battery, i.e. while being slid fore/aft. Plenty of dirt clearance. As the bolt handle closes it "cams" and that clearance is reduced to nothing when fully in battery. Meaning that that there is no vertical, and possibly horizontal, movement possible at the rear of the bolt. If this geometry is achieved then there is no vertical movement of the rear of the bolt at sear release either.

I'm sure that there are plenty of benchrest smiths out there who believe that no lapping should be done.I'm also quite sure that the folks who do true precision alignment of extreme precision components (think laser, optical, silicon wafer, things like that) where the tolerances are in the millionths of an inch (and that isn't their unit of measure) or smaller would laugh at that notion. I would estimate that a good hand at an excellent lathe can hold .0001" at best. To hold tolerances 10 times smaller than that requires grinding, lapping, or possibly scraping.
 
What it means, if I understood their description correctly, is that the bolt has .012" clearance out of battery, i.e. while being slid fore/aft. Plenty of dirt clearance. As the bolt handle closes it "cams" and that clearance is reduced to nothing when fully in battery. Meaning that that there is no vertical, and possibly horizontal, movement possible at the rear of the bolt. If this geometry is achieved then there is no vertical movement of the rear of the bolt at sear release either.

OK, thanks for clarifying. I take your response to mean that it was my first possibility that you referred to. I believe that means the company you found the comment on was about one or more of the actions at Borden Rifles. Here is a direct quote from them: "The actions feature the patented "Borden Bumps" that result in a very close bolt body to action bore fit when the bolt is closed ( <.001″ diametral clearance)."

The problem there is that word "patented". Jim is a great guy and a bright fellow too. But he is also very aggressive about defending his patents. Most smith's and even the aftermarket have shied away from doing anything he might challenge in court. None of us like paying lawyers.

FWIW, I did ask PTG if they would consider making a bolt body with integral bumps. They told me that they looked into it but were not able to reach a satisfactory agreement to licence the patent.

Therefore, I like to use PTG Bolts that are custom sized to fit my trued actions instead. Obviously, the bumps would result in a tighter fit and the extra clearance while sliding would be beneficial too, but I don't believe that there is any difference in the accuracy of the resulting rifle for Borden bumps vs a custom fit bolt. I also think that adding bumps to an existing bolt looks ugly.
 
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First, I agree with your comments on this thread. In fact, I generally like and, agree with your posts even to the point of suggesting that others seek your opinion where I don't have one of my own.

However your comments above do raise some questions in some circles - especially the benchrest crowd who usually, but not always, prefer to avoid lapping and take the position that properly cut surfaces do not need lapping.

Central to their argument is their position that the trigger sear forces the bolt shaft to the top of the raceway prior to firing, and that the bolt will drop to its normal position after pulling the trigger. I have challenged this position in the past, but you never "bit" on my comments so I am now asking you directly.

Is this preloaded condition important?

Is there enough time between firing and bullet exit to make any falling of the bolt relevant?

Does the firing pin tension affect the bolt position during the interim between pin release and bullet exit?

I don't ask these questions because I have a strong position one way or the other. I ask because the answers dramatically affect the best approach to lapping the lugs. Frankly, I could save a lot of effort and cost buying custom bolts (to minimize the effect) if it doesn't really matter.

I also ask because the answer affects my thinking on trigger over travel.

I would love to understand these matters a bit better and would appreciate your views.

Maybe I should start a new thread.....


I will try to answer best I can.

First, like everything else a poor job, be it lapping or machining will cause many other problems that otherwise would not exist so I lap after the machining is done on the recoil surfaces to reduce the resistance to lift the bolt after firing , because as you know We tend to load very heavy and bolt lift can be difficult. Bench rest folks normally don't load hard so this is not a problem for them.Also even the machined surface is not as smooth as it can be with lapping.

And yes the trigger/cocking piece, does apply upward force to the bolt and it tends to ride on the top of the bolt while cocked. with a preferred tolerance between the bolt and the raceway of .001 to .003 this allows the bolt to rise off center by .0005 to .0015 (Not very much misalignment). but upon firing, the bolt will seek true center and this is where I want it to be and have machined and trued for. The bolt cant misalign the case head permanently but 55,000 to 65,000 psi can.

Reaching these pressures takes Milliseconds and the bolt will be forced into what ever alignment it allows. This is also the reason we machine the lugs and the abutments square to the bore center line. If you have .0000 head space this phenomena is not encountered because the bolt will be self aligned by compression. most smiths prefer head space of .0005 to .0015 for accuracy and .001 to .004 for function. in these cases the cocking piece will thrust the bolt upward and remove the clearance on top until the sear releases the cocking piece.

I was trained by a Bench rest shooter/builder and many of his philosophies carry over to our sport but not all, because of different requirements between the two sports.

I hope this explained why I do things the way I do. Others disagree with some of these philosophizes and that's fine This works best for me.

PS: Don't worry about challenging or questing something I do, Because I don;t know everything about anything, and can learn something if I am lucky. I only post what works for me.

J E CUSTOM
 
It seems to me that the most ideal situation would be for the bolt to be located on-center when in battery such that no amount of force would dislocate it without flexing a lot of other stuff too, But that when unlocked that there be ample but not excessive clearance for dirt tolerance etc. A bench rifle can have a perfect fit bolt body to action fit & run like a Swiss watch, but don't take that into the field.

FWIW I frequently use "Dullies" (since when are they ever actually sharp?) for impromptu Dyekem.

I recall nothing mentioned about "Borden" anything. I *think* that it was somewhere on the American Rifle Co. page, but I've not yet found it again.

I would think that such a cam-action would be hard to do in production unless they're CNC OD grinding the bolt bodies and CNC ID grinding the raceway's round-ish features.
 
OK, I found it.
This text: "
Excessive movement of the bolt within the receiver is prevented by an enlarged diameter at the aft end of the bolt that closely fits the receiver bore only when the bolt is closed. Opening the bolt disengages this close fit. The bolt can then be cycled while having 0.012 inches (0.30mm) of diametral clearance between it and the receiver."
Came from here: https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/mausingfield-bolt-action-2?category=15
 
I will try to answer best I can.

First, like everything else a poor job, be it lapping or machining will cause many other problems that otherwise would not exist so I lap after the machining is done on the recoil surfaces to reduce the resistance to lift the bolt after firing , because as you know We tend to load very heavy and bolt lift can be difficult. Bench rest folks normally don't load hard so this is not a problem for them.Also even the machined surface is not as smooth as it can be with lapping.

And yes the trigger/cocking piece, does apply upward force to the bolt and it tends to ride on the top of the bolt while cocked. with a preferred tolerance between the bolt and the raceway of .001 to .003 this allows the bolt to rise off center by .0005 to .0015 (Not very much misalignment). but upon firing, the bolt will seek true center and this is where I want it to be and have machined and trued for. The bolt cant misalign the case head permanently but 55,000 to 65,000 psi can.

Reaching these pressures takes Milliseconds and the bolt will be forced into what ever alignment it allows. This is also the reason we machine the lugs and the abutments square to the bore center line. If you have .0000 head space this phenomena is not encountered because the bolt will be self aligned by compression. most smiths prefer head space of .0005 to .0015 for accuracy and .001 to .004 for function. in these cases the cocking piece will thrust the bolt upward and remove the clearance on top until the sear releases the cocking piece.

I was trained by a Bench rest shooter/builder and many of his philosophies carry over to our sport but not all, because of different requirements between the two sports.

I hope this explained why I do things the way I do. Others disagree with some of these philosophizes and that's fine This works best for me.

PS: Don't worry about challenging or questing something I do, Because I don;t know everything about anything, and can learn something if I am lucky. I only post what works for me.

J E CUSTOM

Too funny! I never mentioned that I also lap AFTER machining. I don't lap to improve the fit. I machine to improve the fit. But I do lap to improve the finish and I also use a spring loaded tensioning fixture that screws into the barrel tenon threads at the end of the receiver. I lap for the same reason as you do - not to square the lug fit or to improve the % coverage, but simply to improve the finish and smoothness of the bearing surfaces and reduce friction. I doubt I remove more than a few tenths but I've never measured it. For me, it's not lapping in the same sense that others use the term. I guess I prefer to say polish the lugs..... AND THEN GREASE them with a good anti-sieze grease - another thing most shooters seem to overlook.

Great post as always JE!

Your assessment of the time factors involved in any movement of the bolt is interesting. I don't recall exactly where I read it but it wasn't an authoritative source. It was just an off-hand comment someplace. I'm thinking it was someplace like froggy's facts or an article on primer brissance testing. Regardless, the author made the point that "lock time" is much more critical than most of us think because the lock-time is the longest duration event in the entire sequence of internal ballistics events. By his definition, lock-time is the time interval between trigger drop and primer ignition. According to David Tubbs, the flight time of most bullets through the barrel is 1.0-1.5 milliseconds while the lock time of most conventional bolt action rifles varies between 2.6 and 9.0 milliseconds. When one considers that the bolt body is at least an order of magnitude heavier than the firing pin, it becomes difficult to predict how much the bolt can align itself in response to the firing pins spring powered trip forward and whether it will bounce a bit after arriving. Similarly, a calculation of acceleration due to gravity shows that the bolt CAN drop to the bottom of the raceway if the lock-time is long enough. For short lock times, it cannot. In other words, the bolts ability to drop or align itself appears to be highly dependent on lock time as well as the clearance between the bolt and the raceway. The overall physics of that movement is quite complicated.

You stated a clearance of 1 to 3 thou. So I assume you are using custom fit bolts too. My measurements of factory bolt clearances are more like 10 to 20 thou. Once in a blue moon I find a good one. It's always been a parkerized bolt so I have assumed it's probably the coating that achieves the fit. That's a purely anecdotal observation. It's probably statistical garbage so I don't lose sleep over it.

Until the primer ignites, the only thing reacting the firing pin spring is the bolt body and locking lugs. So perhaps it is possible that the act of driving the pin forward pulls the bolt body back against the lugs and starts the alignment process. Regardless, it seems to me that there is a whole lot of clattering around that is possible before the rearward pressure of the igniting charge takes over.

I certainly agree that the charge pressure will align the bolt in microseconds once it gets going. The high rear ward force on the bolt face totally overules gravity, spring pressure, inertia, and everything else that is going on.

In the absence of any information to the contrary, I have to agree that machining everything to the pressure centerline is the best way to do it. That's why I also machine everything to the raceway centerline. One has to begin someplace and since the raceway centerline is hard to change, I feel that it's best to leave it alone and make everything else as concentric to that baseline as possible.

Nonetheless, I remain quite intrigued by that long period of clattering around that takes place before chamber pressure becomes dominant. Assuming that Tubbs is correct, it seems to me that due attention to minimize and/or at least control (make it repeatable) all that movement is a worthy goal.

Tubb advocates a lighter pin and stronger spring to reduce lock time. While I accept that, I have not actually seen a difference on targets. Perhaps this factor depends on bolt clearance...... I've never tried lighter pins on a high clearance bolt. Given the crude timing and dimensional analysis above I suppose it's also possible that the two approaches both accomplish the same thing in different ways. It's not like bolt drop is an order of magnitude faster or slower than the lock time. They are both quite similar. Therefore it's possible that tightening up the fit probably accomplishes the same thing as a faster lock time.

Which brings me to my latest fascination. Trigger over-travel. Many shooters assume that minimum over travel is a worthy objective. Less is always better...... NOT! When champion shooters like Boyer, Ratigan, and Tubbs say otherwise, I listen and therefore I have always adjusted triggers for MAXIMUM overtravel. Furthermore, I believe maximum overtravel becomes more and more important as trigger pull settings increase as they do on a hunting rifle. Higher forces significantly reduce the time it takes to reach the hard stop as well as the inertia that gets transferred to the rifle when that hard stop is reached. Both factors significantly increase the amount of movement the rifle will see in those critical early moments before it even fires.

Enter Trigger Tech. One cannot argue with TriggerTech's success in the market and more importantly on target at competitions. Yet their design and even their advertising claims zero overtravel! How can this be? I don't know the answer yet. I have written to them to see if they will provide a technical explanation but have heard nothing back yet. The only thing I can come up with myself is that there is no movement or trigger tension release (only increasing force) in the Triggertech design and therefore there is no inertia or momentum to transfer to a hard stop........ Only time will tell........ Too much fun!

Again, thanks for sharing!
 
RE: over-travel; I'm in the low to none camp SO LONG as the inertia is low. If the pull weight is low, the mass of the trigger itself is low, and the trigger travel is very short, then the impact - if you can call it that - of hitting the stop is somewhere between insignificant and non-existent.

As soon as there is any inertia involved - as there probably should be in a field grade trigger, then I can see where over-travel would be greatly beneficial. Delay hitting that stop until after the bullet has left the barrel.

At one time someone like Volquartson sold an over-travel stop screw that had a rubber nose on it. Creating a soft stop instead of a hard stop. Never tried it, no idea how well it did or didn't work.
 
OK, I found it.
This text: "
Excessive movement of the bolt within the receiver is prevented by an enlarged diameter at the aft end of the bolt that closely fits the receiver bore only when the bolt is closed. Opening the bolt disengages this close fit. The bolt can then be cycled while having 0.012 inches (0.30mm) of diametral clearance between it and the receiver."
Came from here: https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/mausingfield-bolt-action-2?category=15
It seems to me that the most ideal situation would be for the bolt to be located on-center when in battery such that no amount of force would dislocate it without flexing a lot of other stuff too, But that when unlocked that there be ample but not excessive clearance for dirt tolerance etc. A bench rifle can have a perfect fit bolt body to action fit & run like a Swiss watch, but don't take that into the field.

FWIW I frequently use "Dullies" (since when are they ever actually sharp?) for impromptu Dyekem.

I recall nothing mentioned about "Borden" anything. I *think* that it was somewhere on the American Rifle Co. page, but I've not yet found it again.

I would think that such a cam-action would be hard to do in production unless they're CNC OD grinding the bolt bodies and CNC ID grinding the raceway's round-ish features.

OK, I found it.
This text: "
Excessive movement of the bolt within the receiver is prevented by an enlarged diameter at the aft end of the bolt that closely fits the receiver bore only when the bolt is closed. Opening the bolt disengages this close fit. The bolt can then be cycled while having 0.012 inches (0.30mm) of diametral clearance between it and the receiver."
Came from here: https://www.americanrifle.com/shop/product/mausingfield-bolt-action-2?category=15

Great stuff!

Since Jim Borden's "bumps" are patented, and since they accomplish EXACTLY what the article you quote says, then I have to assume that the rifleman is describing Borden's bumps. Why they don't acknowledge that is beyond me.....

In any event, they definitely work.

All it takes are some pads or bumps on the bolt shaft body that are located behind the bolt lugs and/or in front of the bolt handle in line with the lugs. They slide along the receiver lug races without touching anything as the bolt slides back and forth and then engage the non- recessed part of the bolt raceway as the lugs are rotated into position.

It's not really that hard to machine them and it can be done without lots of fancy equipment. I have tried gluing on some pads, putting a weld puddle on the shaft in four places, silver soldering on a pad, milling out and installing thicker pads, and even hard coating the bolt body with a gob of a thick coating like ceracoat. Subsequently, the pads are simply turned on a lathe to the exact diameter of the raceway at their location therein. They could also be lapped in place. In an OEM shop, the bolt could be made with recoil lugs running the entire length of the bolt and then turned down on the lathe to the required dimension.

In any event, they are a patented design so they can't be used without a licence. More importantly, they are ugly in the simplest forms.

I find it much easier and better looking to just install a custom fit bolt.
 
I suspect this is more like a semi-oval bolt body than lugs or bumps. For the very esthetic reason that you mention. This is a very qwik and crude illustration, were I going to actually make such a bolt body it needs some refining:
i-4ZQDDTH-L.jpg

This is shown in battery. Note how there is some gap at the sides above and below the railways (most noticeable at the top-left rail corner), yet there is no gap at the top and bottom of the bolt body. To give some scale, I modeled this with a .750" bolt body OD at the high points, a 1.3" action OD, and used their .012" clearance value.

I said CNC grinder above, but it occurred to me that the cam grinders used to make engine cams could easily make this shape with no automated controls, and that one can find those grinders used from time to time.
 
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