What brake?

get one that has ports on the top also.. this help keeps the rifle from rising. Ports on the side will help with recoil, on top help with rise, so get a combination. I cannot remember, but i think I put this on my rem 700 300 win mag and it does a great job..


This one also looks like it will work really well. .


I think if I were to buy again it would be this one:

 
One of the newest offerings from lrcustomsinc.com has adjustable top ports to help with twist as well. Basically, one or more ports can be plugged.
 
I just bought a fat bastard and I like it. In titanium I would try one of the Christensen arms side baffle brakes, They look pretty good but I havent tried one
I have one on a CA 6.5 PRC Ridgeline . It's a little more efficient than the radial brake that came on it. More blast though. Weighes very little .
 
TI Pro 3 ST from Rokslide. Absolute beautiful craftsmanship and quick shipping. Super lightweight and works wonders on muzzle rise. I purchased the garnet blasted and looks great. Will be buying more down the road.

I have a TI3 Pro. Ordering another for a different rifle. Pulling two radial brakes. Will never own another.

You won't find anything with better recoil reduction at the weight. The muzzle rise reduction is also something that you have to see to believe.

And thanks for the good words gents!

Ken
 
Personally, MY Family doesn't use, Brakes on our "Hunting" Rifles and we ALWAYS choose, Cal's/ Cartridges THAT, we can "Handle", the Recoil, on ! WHY, NO Brake ? In, the "Heat of the Moment", Hunting and SEEING an Elk / Moose, a lot of, People sometimes FORGET to, put their Plugs / Muff's, ON ! A Life Time of, "suffering" from, Tininitus is NOT my idea of, Fun !
And, MOST, 7mm Rem Mag's with, 140 thru, the 168 grain, bullets are, very Manageable, to shoot / Hunt with !
I shot the 154 grain, Hornady InterBonds at, 3,075 FPS in an 8 1/4 lb gun, for a few years and it was, NO "problem" for, me.
Sold, my .338 W Mag. in my mid 50's when, I started Bow Hunting Elk and realized that, Sharp Sticks ( Broad Heads ) thru, the Lungs,.. DID the "Job" just fine and a GOOD expanding Bullet, will do, the same !
My Son shoots, 168's in, a 7mm-08 at 2,775 FPS in, a 7 1/2 LB Tikka ( Scoped ).
My Grandson shoots, a 6.5 PRC with 143's at, 3,135 FPS in, a New Savage 110 Lite at, 7 1/4 pounds ( Scoped ).
I currently shoot, a .270 WSM with, 140 Berger, Classic Hunters at, 3,180 FPS in a 7.7 lb Tikka ( Scoped ).
ALL 3 Rifles HAVE, 800 yard Elk Killing, "capabilities" as they are still going, 2,000+ FPS at that range.
Our self imposed, Elk shooting, distance "limit" tho, is 700 yards, Max., as we realize, the UN-Knowns of, what, Mountain Winds at, 500, 600, and 700 yards can "do" to, a Bullet ! SORRY for, the Long Winded post, but I see people "Hunting" on youTube and a lot of them,.. FORGET,.. the Plugs/ Muff's !
 
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Personally, MY Family doesn't use, Brakes on our "Hunting" Rifles and we ALWAYS choose, Cal's/ Cartridges THAT, we can "Handle", the Recoil, on ! WHY, NO Brake ? In, the "Heat of the Moment", Hunting and SEEING an Elk / Moose, a lot of, People sometimes FORGET to, put their Plugs / Muff's, ON ! A Life Time of, "suffering" from, Tininitus is NOT my idea of, Fun !
And, MOST, 7mm Rem Mag's with, 140 thru, the 168 grain, bullets are, very Manageable, to shoot / Hunt with !
I shot the 154 grain, Hornady InterBonds at, 3,075 FPS in an 8 1/4 lb gun, for a few years and it was, NO "problem" for, me.
Sold, my .338 W Mag. in my mid 50's when, I started Bow Hunting Elk and realized that, Sharp Sticks ( Broad Heads ) thru, the Lungs,.. DID the "Job" just fine and a GOOD expanding Bullet, will do, the same !
My Son shoots, 168's in, a 7mm-08 at 2,775 FPS in, a 7 1/2 LB Tikka ( Scoped ).
My Grandson shoots, a 6.5 PRC with 143's at, 3,135 FPS in, a New Savage 110 Lite at, 7 1/4 pounds ( Scoped ).
I currently shoot, a .270 WSM with, 140 Berger, Classic Hunters at, 3,180 FPS in a 7.7 lb Tikka ( Scoped ).
ALL 3 Rifles HAVE, 800 yard Elk Killing, "capabilities" as they are still going, 2,000+ FPS at that range.
Our self imposed, Elk shooting, distance "limit" tho, is 700 yards, Max., as we realize, the UN-Knowns of, what, Mountain Winds at, 500, 600, and 700 yards can "do" to, a Bullet ! SORRY for, the Long Winded post, but I see people "Hunting" on youTube and a lot of them,.. FORGET,.. the Plugs/ Muff's !
Agree the brake w/o plugs can be really bad. My friends wife is small, I bet she weighs 105 wet.. and with a light rifle w/o a brake, she would probably not be able to hunt the larger animals. Same thing for smaller kids, like my 14 year old niece, she might be 80 lbs. You wouldn't want them to develop a flinch waiting for recoil. Same for my wife, she likes to shoot her 308, but it has a brake, but she hates shooting her 20 gauge when we do trap.. too much recoil for her. She could probably do a 243 w/o a brake, which would be ok for most whitetails, but shooting a 270 or 308 w/o a brake for people of this size would probably deter them from getting into the sport.
 
@ Stephen,..
Agree about, Women and Kids and their "need" of Brake !
BUT,.. I was talking about,.. GROWN Men, Hunting Big Game and the "need" of, the OP specifically with, a 7 mm Mag.
Ear Protection is, ALWAYS,.. a MUST
BUT,.. WE choose Calibers that, ARE,. "managable" JUST in case,.. somebody,. forgets !
 
@ Stephen,..
Agree about, Women and Kids and their "need" of Brake !
BUT,.. I was talking about,.. GROWN Men, Hunting Big Game and the "need" of, the OP specifically with, a 7 mm Mag.
Ear Protection is, ALWAYS,.. a MUST
BUT,.. WE choose Calibers that, ARE,. "managable" JUST in case,.. somebody,. forgets !
I will say this, I took a long range training class, 200+ rounds in 2 days from a 300 WinMag, no brake, a lot from the prone position, out to 1000 yards, using the 190 grain federal GMM rounds, I am 5.9 170, not a big guy.. and I bruised my shoulder bones.. I was sore for a month.. but checking zero and shooting a couple of times during hunting season is not going to bruise. I do wish I had a brake at that training though..
 
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I've got a 24" sendero contour 7 rem mag proof barrel coming and am looking to get a brake. My only experience with brakes are a mbm beast on my last 300 win and a little bastard on my 6.5 cm. Both seem to work well. Im thinking of going with a titanium for weight savings. Any suggestions? I've looked at the mbm self timing titanium. Anyone have any experience with these?
I put one of Darrell Hollands ( Shooters Suppyl, Inc.) "Radial Baffle Brake" on my LR Rem 700, 300 Win Mag
and could not believe the difference it made. Absolutely the best Brake I have. I don't think there are any better, here is a link
Here is Hollands write-up about it.
 
Unless you are shooting an ultra-lightweight rifle I really don't see the benefit of a titanium brake. Saving an ounce would hardly be noticeable on an average weight hunting rifle, particularly when you add in the rings, mount, scope and a magazine full of ammo.

Just my 2 cents
It's gunna be as light as I need it I think the extra $50 for a to brake that saves me a few ounces is worth it to me.

Bighorn origin long action
Sendero contour proof 7 mag 24"
Ag composite alpine hunter
Hawkins m5 hunter bottom metal/ magazine
Hawkins 35 mm rings
Leopold mark 5 3.6-18

Hopefully it will stay in the 8.5 lb range
 
I will say this, I took a long range training class, 200+ rounds in 2 days from a 300 WinMag, no brake, a lot from the prone position, out to 1000 yards, using the 190 grain federal GMM rounds, I am 5.9 170, not a big guy.. and I bruised my shoulder bones.. I was sore for a month.. but checking zero and shooting a couple of times during hunting season is not going to bruise. I do wish I had a brake at that training though..
I need to be able to spot my hits and stay on target as I hunt elk late season and they're herded up. 30 plus head. Gotta keep them in your scope
 
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