Weatherby mkv bedding

[nealm66]

That's a really good suggestion!

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

I guess this is where the confusion hits with the mark v's having the action screw going right into the recoil lug. Plus I was told to bed on both sides and the front is best with them

To me that makes sense as long as everything is square while sitting in the stock. I have yet to do a stock like this. So to me when torquing the screw going into the lug. It would definitely make sense, to want the back n sides tight n square. So as to not allow any twisting of the action.

 

[Willys]

My guess is in the chassis mount your friend shot it like an AR - bang - bang - bang and the barrel is used up? How many rounds and cool between shots? Otherwise Id dremel sides of lug area and try shooting after inspecting barrel with borescope.

 

[6.5x300 WBY]

This is an interesting topic. I just bought a Weatherby Mark V and I have it at my Gunsmith's now to replace the very front swivel stud with a 5 slot picatinny rail. I also told him to glass bed the entire action while he is at it. I called Weatherby and they stated that they only bed the front recoil lug NOT the entire action. So figure this can only help.

 

[V35BTC]

I called Weatherby and they stated that they only bed the front recoil lug NOT the entire action.

And they do a poor job of it, its pretty musch just a dab of hot glue in the stock, and then slap the action in, and box it up. The last one I did was horrible, my indicator moved .070" before it ran out of travel. Ingot it dwn to .001" on the first round and it went from. 1.7" gun to a .650" gun. I only tape the front of the lug on these.

 

[6.5x300 WBY]

And they do a poor job of it, its pretty musch just a dab of hot glue in the stock, and then slap the action in, and box it up. The last one I did was horrible, my indicator moved .070" before it ran out of travel. Ingot it dwn to .001" on the first round and it went from. 1.7" gun to a .650" gun. I only tape the front of the lug on these.

I just hope I did the right thing by asking my action to be glass bedded.
I haven't even shot it. Figured since I am putting a picatinny rail up front they might as well bed the whole action. Can't think of any downside.

 

[Alibiiv]

Oh geeze, ya, sorry about that. It's the composite stock. McMillan I believe. I didn't just bed the lug, I bedded all the way back to the tang as the original had a nasty rock to it. It was not shooting very well at all when he originally brought it to me and I had it shooting almost inside a 1" square when I was finished with the bedding and load work up. He had a chassis built for it for god knows why and just recently brought it back and it was extremely tight to get the original stock that I bedded back on. I was thinking it might not be allowing it to bottom out so I was going to relieve the front and sides and was curious if I needed to re bed. I'm not really that knowledgeable or experienced and the weatherby is different than the 700 types I have messed with before

I have read just about all of the replies to your thread. I am not an expert by any means, however have bedded numerous stocks with great results in the performance area. I read in one reply that the Weatherby has the action screw going into the recoil lug. My experience has been with Ruger 77 tang safety rifles. These rifles too have the front action screw going into the recoil lug. Before I start a glass bedding job I always pillar bed the rear action screw first. By doing this a stable resting place is created for securing the action into the stock after the stock has been relieved for the bedding. I really do not glass bed the entire action into the stock. When I bed I relieve the wood surrounding the recoil lug approximately 1/8th inch below the recoil lug and approximately 1/2-3/4 inches behind the recoil lug, and clearance as much wood from the sides of the action as possible. With the Rugers I relieve the wood clear back to the magazine well, leaving approximately a 1/8th inch ledge so the action can rest on the on that ledge to maintain the depth of the barrel inletting. I also relieve the barrel channel approximately 1/8th of an inch totally around the barrel and the edges of the barrel channel. When setting up for the bedding mark the barrel four inches in front of the recoil lug and use two layers of .020 thousandths plumbers tape. When I set the receiver into the stock with the bedding material in place the receiver is held in place using zip ties until the bedding has set up. This gives me a .040 barrel float from 4 inches in front of the recoil lug. And...yes the action is difficult to remove upon the first removing from the stock, but in my opinion that only serves to tell oneself that the bedding job is a success. I have read where some folks like to put masking tape in front and on the sides of the recoil lug. For me this does not make any sense because the purpose of the bedding to ensure a perfect fit between the stock and the action. From what you have written if "anything" has been modified from the original rifle/action combination I would rebed the entire combination over again. By this I mean relieve the entire stock by removing the bedding material and starting over again. Slightly relieving some of the existing bedding and skimming over what already is there has not ever worked for me. With an original bedding job there is plenty of relief for excess bedding material to be pushed out of the stock. With a skimming job there just isn't that same amount of relief between the stock and the action to allow the bedding material to flow out of the stock. What has happened in the past, for me, with skimming the bedding material did not have enough relief around the bedding areas and the bedding material got stuck in places where the barreled action was supposed to be seated in and the action did not fit into the opening it was supposed to have room to fit in. I hope all this makes sense to you. Relieving and modifying what is already been done only adds another variable to the many variables that already are existing and causing issues with this rifle.

One last comment. With the Ruger 77s torque can make a difference in the accuracy of these rifles. Once you do have the action in the stock you might want to check what the factory recommends for torque on the screws. I know that with the Ruger 77s they recommend 90 inch pounds of torque on the front action screw, and 40 inch pounds on the rear action screw, with just a finger tightening on the front trigger guard screw that holds the magazine box in place. I have a Ruger 77/22 where playing with the torque on the rear action screw has proved to improve the accuracy of the rifle. Good luck with your project, I hope what I have written here helps you out.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Riflshootr wrote: "I would start with carefully relieving the front, sides and bottom of the lug area and then give it a try. If that doesn't do it, then re-bed the entire action."

Ditto to that.

Not the correct answer with a Weatherby.
With the action screw going through the bottom of the lug you WANT full contact of the bottom.

@nealm66 Having bedded a LOT of Weatherbys, both Mark V and Vanguards, if you truly think your bedding job is the issue then grind it out and start over. For the second attempt put tape on the front and side of the lug if having a very tight lug bothers you, which it seems to. I have done them both ways and have not seen any measurable difference in performance.

 

[Alibiiv]

Not the correct answer with a Weatherby.
With the action screw going through the bottom of the lug you WANT full contact of the bottom.

@nealm66 Having bedded a LOT of Weatherbys, both Mark V and Vanguards, if you truly think your bedding job is the issue then grind it out and start over. For the second attempt put tape on the front and side of the lug if having a very tight lug bothers you, which it seems to. I have done them both ways and have not seen any measurable difference in performance.

For me putting tape in any direction defeats the total purpose for the bedding in the first place, "a perfect fit/full contact" between the action and the stock. I agree that if there is a concern about the bedding job, remove the bedding material down to where one started originally and rebed the stock again.

 

[nealm66]

Well, when he switched scopes to eliminate the scope being the problem we noticed he had mounted the scope back so far it was probably touching and left a mark. He shot about 1moa with it last weekend so issue is gone. Now just have to get him shooting better and stop being a pain in my butt