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Wall Tent discussion - researching, want input from experienced users

What thoughts does everyone have on packing out wall tents - specifically if it comes down and goes home wet?

Obviously keeping things as dry as possible is ideal - but that isnt always possible. If a tent + fly etc gets rolled up wet out of necessity - is there a rule of thumb for how long it can be that way before opening up to dry?

Are there coatings/treatments that can assist with holding off mildew that may help in this scenario?
 
It would appear the dam scenario would only come in to play without a fly. With a fly the guy tie-outs should allow that tension you speak of, no? That is to say - with the guy lines you can tension the fly over top of the frame.

That actually brings up another question. I believe the ideal fly set up is to have some dead air space between the fly and tent ceiling. Is that correct? If so - that would require more poles to pitch the fly I think.

Thoughts?

No, you cannot tension a fly tight enough to overcome it. It will help with snow because it is slick but the problem still exists.

Yes the fly needs space in between it and the canvas. Staking it out further from the tent is the best solution.

However, a fly is a negative in most every scenario except one, and your situation is not it. A y is not a solution to anything you have described in your use.

It sounds like you would benefit immensely from calling and talking to Chris (the only Davis left) and learning from experience rather than theorizing.
 
No, you cannot tension a fly tight enough to overcome it. It will help with snow because it is slick but the problem still exists.

Yes the fly needs space in between it and the canvas. Staking it out further from the tent is the best solution.

However, a fly is a negative in most every scenario except one, and your situation is not it. A y is not a solution to anything you have described in your use.

It sounds like you would benefit immensely from calling and talking to Chris (the only Davis left) and learning from experience rather than theorizing.
Thanks for the detail.

Given your background (and what I understand is only what you've shared in the thread thus far) I appreciate your detail. What you state about flys being negative for the most part really hits me sideways, though, in all honesty.

All the weather protection I have had in every tent I've had and used my whole life has been from a fly. There again, I have 0 experience with "wall tents" though. Flys offer a lot of added protection. Speaking of the smaller of the cabin tents - the top of the "tent" is mesh, so there is no tent material up there to shed water when it rains without a fly. My 2 man backpacking tent is a variant of a dome tent with a full down to the ground storm fly - and it's seen its fair share of high winds and rain. I had to seam seal it and re-coat it about 3 years ago, but it is holding up well.

A fly would also protect the tent roof from UV rays. I'd say a fly would be easier to replace 30 years from now than a tent roof.

I have a couple more detailed questions but I'd rather wait for my PM's to open up. From what I see I need 10 posts, and possibly a week of being on the forums for that?
 
Thanks for the detail.



A fly would also protect the tent roof from UV rays. I'd say a fly would be easier to replace 30 years from now than a tent roof.

This is the only time a fly would be a benefit. If you had a tent up for 100 days a year, you'd protect the canvas from UV damage.

The canvas does not need anything, including additional treatments, to be weatherproof.
 
Wall tents do very well; I went with a 20" bell tent. It works better for my family. Instead of a second level, we got the double decker cots from Sportsmans and they work very well.
 
Wall tents do very well; I went with a 20" bell tent. It works better for my family. Instead of a second level, we got the double decker cots from Sportsmans and they work very well.
Thanks for the info. We've looked at those bunk style cots. Im working up a drawing to describe some ideas I have then will see where that leads. I think the loft/balcony idea would be a lot more fun than cots. Kids we may have along camping range from 1-16 years old right now, down the road we may have our own too. Lots to think about with options/expandability/modularity.
 
Hi All,

I've been researching Wall Tents for a while now. I've been interested in them going back quite a long time, but never seriously considered them until now. We've been camping our whole lives but never used canvas, or similar material, wall tents - all nylon tent fabrics of various kinds.

Looking around online this forum seems to have a lot of discussion on wall tents, though no specific forum for them. If it should be in another forum here I'm sure the mods will relocate.

From my perspective looking at the Wall Tents - they are much different.

Our use would be various family camping outings, mostly. I am a ham radio operator also and we do a couple annual (summer/winter) events called Field Day that I am trying to plan for also. Modularity in tent options is a good thing (living quarters + a couple "cook shacks", for example - a topic I want to hit on later). Transportation would be by pickup truck/trailer, and I don't think we would be carrying the gear very far, but that isn't to say (modularity here) we couldn't pack in a module for a smaller/more remote camp.

I have a lot of ideas and points I'd like to cover over time, so for now I'll keep the post a bit short with a couple questions.

1. I am really wanting a stronger and more weatherproof solution than our cabin tents + tarps. I am leaning towards an internal frame design. I was at a hardware store yesterday and checked out the 1" EMT conduit. That appears to be a common frame material. I'd say that would make for a more robust and stronger frame than anything we've ever had, though heavy. So from a structure standpoint I think that would be pretty robust and not much of a concern. More of a concern would be the weatherproofness of the material - walls, roof. I understand a lot of materials are treated to help with shedding water and to protect from UV's etc. I would think a fly would be a requirement also.

2. How is the breathability of canvas and similar materials? IE - in the winter time with a stove going - will they insulate OK? Summer time in the heat if we run a room AC would it keep cooler?

3. On the subject of frames - has anyone had experience substituting EMT conduit for aluminum poles of similar dimensions?

Any input would be great. More thoughts later.
I have used a wall tent for elk hunting for a few years, but i prefer my camper hands down. Taking a dump in a 5-gallon bucket with the clip-on toilet seat thing during a blizzard at midnight makes you really miss your camper! Aluminum IMC weighs close to the same as EMT, but costs more, I had the same idea when i was building my tent frame but there's really no point. I bought a fireproof tarp and use it as a rain fly so no embers burn a hole in my tent roof, snow also slides off with just a tap in the morning. Make sure you guy your chimney pipe down or secure it with screws, I had the top portion of mine blow off in a storm just below the top of the roof peak. the wind pushed smoke into the tent all night. Good way to wake up feeling very sick or not at all.

My experience has been you will have a sore back, it's cool and fun, but its a LOT of work unless you're leaving it somewhere all season. My tent weighs about 100lbs, my tent frame is 100lbs, my wood stove + cookware weighs about 100lbs, my cooler weighs about 100lbs, I bring about 100lbs in firewood, i have about 100lbs in blankets/cots/tables/lanterns/bedding etc... every component weighs about 100lbs. you get to pack it all into your truck, nice and neat, then unpack 800lbs of stuff and set up camp. I usually hunt for 7-10 days then I get to pack the 800lbs in icy canvas and cast iron back up and head home. The best part is when you get home you unpack everything and have to set up the tent+frame in your garage or basement for two weeks so it's completely dry before you put it up for the year or it will mold... then two weeks later you finally get to put it away. Skip this one year and your $1,500 wall tent is rotten and your $300 worth of EMT and special-made angle kit is rusty.

Pro tip: get colored 35 electrical tape and mark your poles and angle pieces with a stripe or two to speed up assembly: legs are blue stripe, walls are yellow, trusses are red etc... either side of the angle piece gets the corresponding color. just lay everything out and match color for color when you set your tent up, no more trying to eyeball if it's a 90* ridge piece or the 115* side piece. it'll really cut down on your setup time.
 
I have used a wall tent for elk hunting for a few years, but i prefer my camper hands down.
We've thought about that - and a camper is definitely in our sights, and has been.

The down side is one of the events we do is at a park where we have not been allowed to drive off of the pavement and off the pavement is the only place we would be able to put a camper for the event, the drive and parking lot aren't camper-able (blocks traffic). That has cramped our event a good bit. The park management doesn't mind tents and carts on the grass, but no vehicles (they can rut soft ground after/during rain). So that pretty much puts the kabosh on a camper there - and that is the event/place we had the cabin tents last where the tarps ripped.

Taking a dump in a 5-gallon bucket with the clip-on toilet seat thing during a blizzard at midnight makes you really miss your camper! Aluminum IMC weighs close to the same as EMT, but costs more, I had the same idea when i was building my tent frame but there's really no point. I bought a fireproof tarp and use it as a rain fly so no embers burn a hole in my tent roof, snow also slides off with just a tap in the morning.

Interesting on the alum IMC. I have not heard of that before. When I mentioned aluminum I was thinking along the lines of 6061 structural tubing. I have not dug around to see if a suitable wall thickness in a close enough OD to EMT is available (IE - same OD as EMT = can use the same stock angles).

Make sure you guy your chimney pipe down or secure it with screws, I had the top portion of mine blow off in a storm just below the top of the roof peak. the wind pushed smoke into the tent all night. Good way to wake up feeling very sick or not at all.

We have a pellet stove. I am familiar with anchoring the flue pipe - you're 100% correct. I like having structure to secure it to, if nothing else an A frame ladder. We use thick steel utility wire (kind of like a cross between picture hanging wire and steel bailing wire - when I got it everyone in town was out of steel bailing wire - hay season - so it was the next best thing) to wrap around the pipe and attach to structure.

My experience has been you will have a sore back, it's cool and fun, but its a LOT of work unless you're leaving it somewhere all season. My tent weighs about 100lbs, my tent frame is 100lbs, my wood stove + cookware weighs about 100lbs, my cooler weighs about 100lbs, I bring about 100lbs in firewood, i have about 100lbs in blankets/cots/tables/lanterns/bedding etc... every component weighs about 100lbs. you get to pack it all into your truck, nice and neat, then unpack 800lbs of stuff and set up camp. I usually hunt for 7-10 days then I get to pack the 800lbs in icy canvas and cast iron back up and head home. The best part is when you get home you unpack everything and have to set up the tent+frame in your garage or basement for two weeks so it's completely dry before you put it up for the year or it will mold... then two weeks later you finally get to put it away. Skip this one year and your $1,500 wall tent is rotten and your $300 worth of EMT and special-made angle kit is rusty.

The above is a valid all-encompassing subject and perspective. Some of the events we do is about a month's worth of work for a "weekend" outing. That is, the 2 weekends prior are preparatory. The idea I try to go after is to have everything packed and ready to roll the weekend prior, minus last minute/important stuff. Then we get to condense the set up and tear down over the weekend, then do the reverse afterwards. Right now there isn't a way to ease up on that process/speed up the process - we don't have the space at the moment to keep things all together easy to grab, and all but the strictly "camping" gear is used other times so things get scattered to some extent.

Whether it makes much sense or not, with a set of wall tents my gut tells me we're going to have a quicker & better tent set up. Rigging the tarps is a PITA. I'll see if I can get a picture or two of our set up for perspective. The long and short of it is we use 2 poles per tent/tarp to set up a tarp in a large A configuration with a tent under it.

I wholeheartedly agree, though - a camper would be a million times easier and faster - its already "set up" for the most part. The down side is a primary/important event we do a camper may just not be possible. If a camper was our only option it takes one management decision from the park to tell us not to drive on the grass to put the kabosh on the event for us.
Pro tip: get colored 35 electrical tape and mark your poles and angle pieces with a stripe or two to speed up assembly: legs are blue stripe, walls are yellow, trusses are red etc... either side of the angle piece gets the corresponding color. just lay everything out and match color for color when you set your tent up, no more trying to eyeball if it's a 90* ridge piece or the 115* side piece. it'll really cut down on your setup time.

Thanks for the color coding. I do something similar with frames that have a specific organization to them. I label things with letters at joints. When things go together the first time I put letters on matching joints so to reassemble you match A to A, B to B, C to C, etc. The color coding would probably be faster as you don't have to look close for letters - the color can be seen quick at a glance.
 
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Here are a couple pictures for perspective.

This is the back side of the tents. Right is the 10x14, left is the 10x19.5

Wood poles are 12' 4x4's I split out of some 4'x12' pallets. All cordage is 550 paracord. The flagged stakes are 18" 1/2" rebar (anchors for the wood poles etc).

20230625_105902.jpg


Below is the front side. The canopy is a "common area". In looking at my Wall Tent idea this would be the "cook shack".

The tarps give us a lot of area to store things "under cover" outside of the tents also. That will be a consideration with my wall tent idea, however we are going to have a substantial amount more room inside if I use the 2x 14x15 "tents" with a "cook shack" sandwiched between - the cook shack space would likely cover everything.

I'll have to give the idea of the "cook shack" some more thought. In the specific set up here that might not be entirely ideal. Rather, an awning the same size might be better - with removable sides. That way we have the roof over-head, but if the wind kicks up or there's a storm we would have the option of closing in the sides. With a walled "cook shack" you couldn't open it up the same way. In the colder weather, though, the walled "cook shack" would be ideal. Plus that can double as its own smaller stand-alone tent.

20230625_110018.jpg


A bit off topic, but a good topic to expand the perspective of things - in the top 1st picture, the upper right of it you can see a guy line going bottom left to upper right. That is the top guy support for the 65' antenna. Heres a better (not great) picture of it below. That gets back to a point I made earlier on about guying things down and the strength of guys. We've been doing it for years with a lot of various things.

The ladder in the background is the "launch pad". The 4 way guy system is set up so when going up and down the side pair holds the mast steady, the rear holds it from cresting and falling forward, and the front pair works in conjunction with ratchet straps so as to be able to adjust the top and bottom guy lengths in increments. An ATV winch (anchored to the ground with 2x 1/2" rebar stakes in series) with wireless remote is the pulling power. Having the mast set on the ladder gives the initial angle needed for the winch pressure to raise it (with a little help from a push stick at first).

20230625_105939.jpg
 
Hi All,

I've been researching Wall Tents for a while now. I've been interested in them going back quite a long time, but never seriously considered them until now. We've been camping our whole lives but never used canvas, or similar material, wall tents - all nylon tent fabrics of various kinds.

Looking around online this forum seems to have a lot of discussion on wall tents, though no specific forum for them. If it should be in another forum here I'm sure the mods will relocate.

From my perspective looking at the Wall Tents - they are much different.

Our use would be various family camping outings, mostly. I am a ham radio operator also and we do a couple annual (summer/winter) events called Field Day that I am trying to plan for also. Modularity in tent options is a good thing (living quarters + a couple "cook shacks", for example - a topic I want to hit on later). Transportation would be by pickup truck/trailer, and I don't think we would be carrying the gear very far, but that isn't to say (modularity here) we couldn't pack in a module for a smaller/more remote camp.

I have a lot of ideas and points I'd like to cover over time, so for now I'll keep the post a bit short with a couple questions.

1. I am really wanting a stronger and more weatherproof solution than our cabin tents + tarps. I am leaning towards an internal frame design. I was at a hardware store yesterday and checked out the 1" EMT conduit. That appears to be a common frame material. I'd say that would make for a more robust and stronger frame than anything we've ever had, though heavy. So from a structure standpoint I think that would be pretty robust and not much of a concern. More of a concern would be the weatherproofness of the material - walls, roof. I understand a lot of materials are treated to help with shedding water and to protect from UV's etc. I would think a fly would be a requirement also.

2. How is the breathability of canvas and similar materials? IE - in the winter time with a stove going - will they insulate OK? Summer time in the heat if we run a room AC would it keep cooler?

3. On the subject of frames - has anyone had experience substituting EMT conduit for aluminum poles of similar dimensions?

Any input would be great. More thoughts later.
Give John at Bravo Tents a call. I've used a few other tents over the last 20 years and just bought a Bravo last year. This tent is like the Sherman tank of tents and built to be packed. Plus when I called to inquire about tent options John the owner answered the phone. Really nice guy who builds the very best wall tents available in my opinion. Seriously can't say enough good stuff about the tent and company. Give Bravo a call and you'll get answers for all your questions.
 
What thoughts does everyone have on packing out wall tents - specifically if it comes down and goes home wet?

Obviously keeping things as dry as possible is ideal - but that isnt always possible. If a tent + fly etc gets rolled up wet out of necessity - is there a rule of thumb for how long it can be that way before opening up to dry?

Are there coatings/treatments that can assist with holding off mildew that may help in this scenario?
When I get home, I always spread the tent out and dry it thoroughly and once every 4 or 5 years I spray it with canvas waterproof coating that also acts as a preservtive. my canvas is over 35 years old and is still serviceable. It has been up for months at a time too.
 
I have this tent, 12x12, works for a couple people. My first canvas tent. First time up since Oct 2021 and no mold. I think most come with mold mildew treatment and you can get fire retardant treatment too. I have a stove for mine and it will heat up in there pretty quick. I like the truckers tarp over the top to keep sparks and other stuff off the tent fabric. This style uses 3 poles inside and perimeter poles outside. It also has a floor sewed in. I have erected it myself without too much issue. I was worried it may be moldy since I packed it up after finished hunting 2 years ago and haven't had a chance to use it since. put it up for the 4th of July camping and it looked fine. One window each side and doors front and back. Fly needs to be staked out about 3 feet from the tent sidewall stakes to keep it off the tent roof. I was looking at getting a Bravo Tent but decided on this one instead. Canvas tent beats the heck out of a nylon tent any day other than the weight. More comfortable and quieter.

One thing I don't like is there is a guy rope in the center of the door and I walk into it all the time when exiting. Door pole is 6 foot tall and so am I and I have to bend down a little coming out of tent.


tent with candy canes.jpg
 
Enjoying the wall tent dicsussion. Have used a wall tent for 35 plus years. I was lucky enough to have a friend build my frame so I tweake it a little to help with my tarp over tent. I added supports in the middle of the frame which helped keep the tarp off the tent and made a huge difference in keeping control of moisture. I also have another option if you have not purchased any tents. I live in a northern state where you can have 20 + plus below or 70+. The tents are impressive and I have included a link that has does a good job of marketing their product. Owner is good to deal with. I have not been in contact with them for years. i guess that is a good thing if the tent has been trouble free. The business is located in Belgrade Mt. Good luck in finding the best tent for your needs.


 
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