FloatI have a new 257wby vanguard high country custom. Did brake in and has about 70 rounds through it. Doing load development just not grouping like I want. Using a couple different bullets. Should I float the barrel or not. Thanks.
FloatI have a new 257wby vanguard high country custom. Did brake in and has about 70 rounds through it. Doing load development just not grouping like I want. Using a couple different bullets. Should I float the barrel or not. Thanks.
Please send a picture of the stock.I have a new 257wby vanguard high country custom. Did brake in and has about 70 rounds through it. Doing load development just not grouping like I want. Using a couple different bullets. Should I float the barrel or not. Thanks.
Again from personal experience over 65 years of shooting I've only had one rifle not improve it's groups by floating the barrel, and in that case a bore scope showed severe throat erosion and cracking. It is my humble opinion to simply float the barrel. If that doesn't help it's easy to undo and put pressure on the barrel with Acraglas.I have a new 257wby vanguard high country custom. Did brake in and has about 70 rounds through it. Doing load development just not grouping like I want. Using a couple different bullets. Should I float the barrel or not. Thanks.
Do you think adjustable pressure point via a screw on the underside of the forearm has any merit?I attended (and graduated) from an accredited gunsmithing school long enough ago that we were still required stock making by hand, from a blank. The stockmaking instructor recommended 7# of upward forearm pressure on #3 contour barrels and smaller. Even then, he said "sometime 5# is better and sometimes none at all is what is needed. There are no hard and fast rules." He did stress that the upward pressure needed to be a straight upward push, not off to one side or the other, even, straight upward pressure. Sealing a wood stock is of the utmost importance. Few factory wood stocked offerings are deeply sealed. Bill Larson has it correct.
The more you introduce variables the less chance you have of achieving consistent barrel whip.Do you think adjustable pressure point via a screw on the underside of the forearm has any merit?
What do you mean by deeply sealed?I attended (and graduated) from an accredited gunsmithing school long enough ago that we were still required stock making by hand, from a blank. The stockmaking instructor recommended 7# of upward forearm pressure on #3 contour barrels and smaller. Even then, he said "sometime 5# is better and sometimes none at all is what is needed. There are no hard and fast rules." He did stress that the upward pressure needed to be a straight upward push, not off to one side or the other, even, straight upward pressure. Sealing a wood stock is of the utmost importance. Few factory wood stocked offerings are deeply sealed. Bill Larson has it correct.
Multiple coats of sanding sealer (like Permalyn sealer) sanded in. Apply 1st coat and let it dry. "break" the glaze that's on after drying with 600g and apply another coat. The 600g won't remove much wood, but it will allow more sealer to be applied that'll soak into the wood. A proper 'sealing' and finishing is labor intensive. Most don't like to pay for hand work, and many don't have the patience to do that labor intensive hand work.What do you mean by deeply sealed?